Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys as the topic says just have a few things i want to get rid of.

Located in Melbs SE subs

cheers

R34 Stock Dump pipe, comes with O2 sensor and mounting bracket. $ 50

post-22171-1186133255_thumb.jpg post-22171-1186133374_thumb.jpg post-22171-1186133710_thumb.jpg

Stock R32 Gts-t rear wing, has Brake light still attatched $ 20

post-22171-1186134182_thumb.jpg post-22171-1186134926_thumb.jpg post-22171-1186135135_thumb.jpg

Edited by vsute
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179305-stock-r34-dump-pipe-and-o2-sensor/
Share on other sites

THere is no elbow on this turbo, but i could take the one off the rb20, I would throw it in for the 250.

There isnt HEAPS of play but there is some there, But have to remember there is no oil in it.

YOur more than welcome to come round and check it out f you want

THere is no elbow on this turbo, but i could take the one off the rb20, I would throw it in for the 250.

There isnt HEAPS of play but there is some there, But have to remember there is no oil in it.

YOur more than welcome to come round and check it out f you want

Thanks man.

I am checking out another one this weekend also, but may come check yours out first as you are closer.

Will give you a call on the weekend.

Thanks,

Abu

somthings come up lol yeh an attempt to buy a cheaper turbo lol thanks bro

Yep, something did come up.

My car failed the initial AQIS inspection and I was stuck with another invoice for an amount which I did not budget for, therefor I said I cannot afford to buy your turbo.

Hence why I am looking for something cheaper, locally.

That will save me paying postage on top of the cost of the item..

But like I said in my PM, if things change I will get back to you, but they haven't.

I am now playing with less of a budget meaning the cost of your turbo is out of my budget.

Sorry to go off topic vsute, this should have been said via PM.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Yep, something did come up.

My car failed the initial AQIS inspection and I was stuck with another invoice for an amount which I did not budget for, therefor I said I cannot afford to buy your turbo.

Hence why I am looking for something cheaper, locally.

That will save me paying postage on top of the cost of the item..

But like I said in my PM, if things change I will get back to you, but they haven't.

I am now playing with less of a budget meaning the cost of your turbo is out of my budget.

Sorry to go off topic vsute, this should have been said via PM.

Thanks,

Abu

this guy is asking 250, u were gona buy mine for 250? simple maths tells me..... umm yeh u get wat im saying lol. its ok bro i dont mind relax lol

free bump good luck with the sale

this guy is asking 250, u were gona buy mine for 250? simple maths tells me..... umm yeh u get wat im saying lol. its ok bro i dont mind relax lol

free bump good luck with the sale

The agreed price for your turbo was $280 delivered.. so simple maths tells me, thats already $30 greater than vsute's ASKING price. Therefor I am already at a $30 saving by not purchasing your turbo?..

And he is asking price $250 NEG.. meaning there is room for negotiation?

So how about you do the simple maths and work out where I am saving money?

If you have any other questions, feel free to send me a PM instead of trying to put me down in this thread.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu

hey DjeMz,

The centre of the diff has been welded together, so its a full time lock diff. It was working fine when it was

pulled out of the car. So prob just put some new oil in it just to safe. and bolt it in.

Im selling it as I now have a Nismo 2 way

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...