Wierd Clutch Problem

[johnr32]

Hey guys,

My R32 gts-t has a wierd problem with the clutch (5 puk - probably not related but).

1. The friction point will gradually keep lowering until it's on the floor or it's so far down that the clutch wont even engage and I'm stuck in gear. This will generally happen over a space of a week of driving. To combat this, I've had the clutch pedal adjusted 2-3 times already among other things and it keeps doing it. Can't really adjust it anymore because we've run out of thread on the adjustment.

2. The friction point of the clutch will also jump all over the place at any one time while the clutch is engaged (when it can be just engaged). For example, I will be rolling up to a set of lights and instead of shifting to neutral I will leave it in 5th or 3rd or whatever gear it's in and just have my foot on the clutch, then suddenly the clutch will let go and the car almost stalls coming up to the lights before it re-engages again and lets the car idle.

Due to this sometimes I can't shift the car into any gears even when trying to take off as each press/pump of the clutch will give me a different friction point or none at all

3. When the friction point goes down the clutch pedal doesn't spring back to the top, it will only spring back half way.

My mate has looked at a couple of things to fix this, we first thought it may have been an air leak because the master cylinder was leaking but that has since been reconditioned with new seals, and just of last week the slave was replaced. In all instances the system was bled. And if there is an air leak we aren't sure where it is because the fluid level isn't dropping at all.

I should also note that the clutch is in it's best working condition on the first start of the day. The friction point is still as low as it was from the last day but it stays constant. After about 5 minutes, once the cars hot the symptoms will start to show and continue to get worse the more I drive it.

Any ideas that will help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks all!

[turboedsloth]

1. When was the clutch installed?

2. What brand is it?

3. Why didnt you install a new master cylinder instead of resealing there as cheap as anything

4. Does your mate know what he is doing?

5. Is the clutch pedal sitting in its right place, the mounts for it havent broken have they?

[dazza05]

1. When was the clutch installed?

2. What brand is it?

3. Why didnt you install a new master cylinder instead of resealing there as cheap as anything

4. Does your mate know what he is doing?

5. Is the clutch pedal sitting in its right place, the mounts for it havent broken have they?

Talk about irrelevant questions. I dont know what budget your working on in your head but brand new master cylinders from nissan are not cheap as anything and what difference does it make? The master was flushed out checked over at a brake/clutch specialist and was found to be in good order and just in need of new seals, popped those in tight as ever. The slave can be picked up for about $15 from autobarn.

I can handle bleeding a clutch, swapping master and slave cylinders, thanks for your concern

The mounts are fine, the pedal is fine when its operating as its supposed to be until a week or 2 later when it stuffs up again.

Edited August 4, 2007 by dazza05

[turboedsloth]

its all relevant and a brand new master cylinder is $55. if its mucking round that much pull the box out and check the clutch if you can handle that

[Intensevil]

Could a collapsed pressure plate or a damaged one cause this type of thing?

[turboedsloth]

its possible

[Risking]

First check the fork pivot if its okay change the master cylinder, seen it a million times over.

Edited August 5, 2007 by Risking

[Simon-S14]

whats the part number for new master and where do you get them for 55?

[Dan_J]

whats the part number for new master and where do you get them for 55?

yea and how do u get a slave for $15 from autobarn.