Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Sorry to see what the wankers did, and thanks for the warning -

with all the revenue they pull from import owners for speeding, you think the police would feel obliged to put more time into the investigation of crimes against the cars - after all its in their interest to keep us out there on the roads :P

But seriously, its a crying shame that vigilantes arent tollerated, would make life more satisfying to be able to punch living f#$k out of pricks like that.

I take it from the pics that for a theif to open the door unlawfully, they have to remove the door handle?

if you had the skills, or knew someone who does, a thought would be to install a grounding (push type) switch (the same kind as your door switch that turns your interior light on when you open your door) behind the door handle, so that if the handle was to OPEN, so to speak, as in come away from the car say 5mm... the alarm would go off, as you can connect the switch to the door switches, which are connected to your alarm.

if your skyline is an everyday car, this could be a wise modification to your alarm system. you could set it so the handle only has to move a fraction before the alarm goes off, making the theif boogy out of there, minimizing the damage to your door.

come on guys... you know this is a good idea :P

just an update...

about $400 to repair it, that includes: weld up damage and paint entire door, rubber seal around handle, clean up door handle and replace lock (i probably wont get the lock replaced though - just plug it up - dont need 2 locks... one less lock for them to butcher with a screw driver)

I like the idea of the alarm switch on the door handle. So u could put it in series with the door switch/interior light switch??

Also, in the pic u can see an activation lever through the hole... this is from the door handle... there is another lever that should have been attached to the back of the lock mechanism... the twits knocked the lever off the lock while they were butchering the door... so there was no way they could have gotten in unless they made an even bigger hole right to the actual catch mechanism of the door... I am not planning on putting this lever back on either... i removed it on my previous car as well.

collegue at work used to live at modbury and was telling me of all the thefts she could see from her flat and then watch the cops rock up later when she called. its not a good place to park your car (esp near the hospital)

if you have central locking installed (or plan to cos its only $40 for a kit) then you wont need the door lock to be replaced. also using remote boot release, you can disconnect your boot latches from the key/inside release to protect things like amps

i hate car theives... they need to be caught and taught a "lesson".

over the years ive had my car(s) broken into three times.

I have found alarms dont even do much... they usually just want to nick stuff from inside the car and then bugger off.

Tip 1

Never leave ANYTHING visible in the car.

Tip 2

If they are looking for an actualy car to steal, the club lock is the best deterrent, as well as an immobiliser obviously.

Why can't we be like south africa where they have shock systems or flame throwers hooked up to the car alarm system.

****ing theives... DIE!

Guest Miss_Nismo
Originally posted by EnricoPalazzo

Yeh i have an alarm and still use th Club lock. Plus on the other side, it doubles as a weapon if someone harrasses u.

Yes I was let of with a warning from a pigger once, using the steering wheel lock as a weapon is illegal apparently.

  • 2 weeks later...

dam theives, I sympathise for you, as i had my car broken into a few weeks ago at Brighton railway station, lost the entire soundsystem, luckily the theif was caught by police with a little help from a witness, theif now owes me $900 :D

Think its a good idea if we set up some cars around for theives then kick the S**T outta them wen they go near it. It may start to deter them a bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 馃槂
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
  • Create New...