Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Complied Shell Now Only $50! It's Almost Free!

Julzy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Julzy Rising Star

Julzy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Included with the shell is the rear seats, drivers side window, most of the interior trim, the full dash (not the cluster), both door trims, the shell with compliance plates, interior wiring, fuel tank, fuel lines, passenger side mirror, boot, spoiler, a monoblock amp, steering colomn, etc etc. heaps more but i just can't remember.

NOW ONLY $50!!!!

I've got the remains of the wrecked r33 for sale...

i wouldn't bother trying to fix it. WAY too much to do, but good if you need compliance plates, some parts, or a big paper weight.

I'll throw in a bunch of stuff with the sale such as lots of the interior trim, and other bits and pieces.

there's no underbody components... such as suspension, brakes, wheels, engine, gearbox etc.

still has boot, doors (damaged) and dash, as well as other bits.

Located in Epping, Vic.

Call 0423 366 118 for details, pretty much just want it all gone.

The car isn't registered as ever being damaged.

The pics show the front right quarter, and the rear left quarter. That's the worst of the damage.

post-23316-1186440512_thumb.jpg

post-23316-1186440525_thumb.jpg

post-23316-1186440544_thumb.jpg

Edited by Julzy
  • 5 weeks later...
Fungus Mungus Collaborator

Fungus Mungus

Posted
Posted

is the body kit still in good nick? the whole shell doesn't interest me, but if the skirts and rear bumper are ok maybe we can work something out?

Julzy Rising Star

Julzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nah skirts are screwed. rear bar would still be useable, requires respray though i'd say. the boot and spoiler are still useable too, paints in good nik on them. come on $100 TAKE IT AWAY!!

cheez Mentor

cheez

Posted
Posted

hey mate

forgot to ask, but when i got that boot release cable off ya u wouldnt by chance have the front right wheel cover thing that seperates the wheel from the standard cooler?

cheers

daniel

Julzy Rising Star

Julzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey mate

forgot to ask, but when i got that boot release cable off ya u wouldnt by chance have the front right wheel cover thing that seperates the wheel from the standard cooler?

cheers

daniel

nah dont think i do. sorry mate. i'll have a look next time i head down there.

Can people please stop messing me around! if you want it come and get it! i've had a lot of people say they'll take it, but haven't seen them come get it yet!!

Julzy Rising Star

Julzy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

come on... included with the shell is the rear seats, drivers side window, most of the interior trim, the full dash (not the cluster), both door trims, the shell with compliance plates, interior wiring, fuel tank, fuel lines, passenger side mirror, boot, spoiler, a monoblock amp, and various other parts i cant think of.

NV N01 Experienced

NV N01

Posted
Posted

Are you willing to sell just the compliance plates and the rest of the plates on the firewall for that price?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...