Urgent Help!

[mr_rbman]

Must u bleed your lifters when installing new cams and why?

cheers!

[mr_rbman]

anyone?

also i torqued the cam journal bolts up to about 1.2kg - m according to some specs i got given but they seemed very loose? What has everyone else done?

Cheers!

[tridentt150v]

I thought hydraulic lifters pump up to the correct clearance, but someone else will know for sure..........[i'm really just trying to refresh the thread].

[sweetr33]

u wont bleed your lifters when doing cams. only time they get bled is when you've had them out of the head, they tend to self bleed but if completely empty(ie been out of head completely then they need to be aided in bleeding process) cheers

[InterCooL]

the manual for the sr20 lifters say to bleed all air out of the lifters

an engine assembly workshop told me to bleed all oil out of the lifters......... i was confused of what to do

i followed the manual and was fine. if there's a workshop manual for the rb25 then i'd go by what it says. sorry i dont even know if they exist

[sweetr33]

ok well ive had my head off twice (rb25det) and both time the lifters were pre bled at the head reco place so i did not need to touch them, all the heads we get back from head reco place when i worked at mechanics shop that had hydro lifters we didnt touch them, lifters are pre bled by head places, if u dont take head to a shop then yes its probably a wise move to bleed them...

[mr_rbman]

well i didn't end up bleeding them and had no issues and i know of another guy who hasn't bled his before and never had issues so all is sweet!

[Richieb]

Hmm, never heard of this one.

I had a CVH engined Ford. They said to squeeze them when immersed in oil, then install them.

Fire the engine, and they will probaly rattle, some will clear up, some not.

Let the engine idle to norm temp, then switch off. Leave 10-15 mins, then fire it up again, and they will be ok.

I did this, and it was 100% true, all cleared, sounded good.

If they are rattling still, there's something wrong, check your work, or oil type. Oil needs to be thin at ambient temperature, 20/xx usually caused the Fords to ratttle, as oil could not get to the top of the engine quick enough, thus the lifters didn't get enought oil at start time, so they rattled all the journey until stopped.

[Cubes]

When I've had my head at the workshop both times they bled the lifters.

I believe it just cleans them up a little; removes old oil etc.

Ash. I wonder what the reasoning behind the spec sheet of your cams also stating the lifters must be bled? :S

[mr_rbman]

When I've had my head at the workshop both times they bled the lifters.

I believe it just cleans them up a little; removes old oil etc.

Ash. I wonder what the reasoning behind the spec sheet of your cams also stating the lifters must be bled? :S

didn't see this on the spec sheet joel?

[Cubes]

Sorry bud.

I thought you said in a pm after it was all back together you read you had to bleed the lifters?

[mr_rbman]

Sorry bud.

I thought you said in a pm after it was all back together you read you had to bleed the lifters?

ah, that was for the other spec cams i was looking at cause they had a slightly higher lift, the ones i was saying u should look at!

[r33_racer]

you know what the answer to this one is.........solid lifters haha.

[260tech]

Must u bleed your lifters when installing new cams and why?

cheers!

bump, I know you are all probably over it by now but to add my 2 cents worth, having flopped onto this (looking for something else as usual)

Why/when do you bleed hydraulic lifters before/during engine rebuild/installation. To waffle a bit, I have always found that if people are told why first up it usually answers a lot of other questions down the track and/or will allow people to work things out for themselves.

You bleed/prime hydraulic lifters or anything hydraulic for that matter so that it does not go back into service dry.

Imho the supplier/repair manual author must assume that the said lifters are completely empty of the good oil or could be, from either having been supplied new in packet covered in preservative only or cleaned with a proprietry solvent during inspection prior to deciding that they are not worn or damaged & are therefore suitable for refitment to your otherwise new head/block etc., which would have been rebuilt using copious amounts of assembly oil (you hope) so that no moving parts start life metal to metal. (dry)

Either way if they are installed in this empty condition they are gonna rattle for a while, wear until the engine oil circulation system pumps them up to operating pressure & as someone pointed out earlier maybe stick down (suction close) and maybe not pump up at all, ever. Someone else said that it helps clean the old oil out of your lifters & so it does but the primary reason is to give them a chance of not sticking permanently closed on initial startup. Hydraulic lifters are little oil pumps & most all pumps work better from startup if they are preloaded/primed.

So, if they have been sitting for a while before re-install, or are new in box, prime'em, they'll loveya for it.

Cheers