Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got this clutch hydralic issue that i thought i solved... Basically i can bleed the clutch system, then after a while of driving (say an hour or so) the engagement point gets higher and then with your foot off the peddle there is still pressure in the system and applying on the clutch fork causing the clutch to slip under hard accel

Cracking the bleed nipple on the slave/master (i have ditched the damper in the middle) releases this pressure and all is good for another hour or so...

Now heres the thing, i have rebuilt both the master and the slave, and adjusted the pushrod on the master, but with no solution. The only thing that made a real difference was using an air blower to blast all the lines out and chucking the damper in the bin... then the clutch was fine for a day or so then it was back to acting up.

Slave cyln looks to be perfect, as does the master, so really. im stumped and sick of the damn issue!

You're sure you have the pushrod adjusted correctly at the pedal. Because it sounds like the master is gradually building pressure because it can't release properly. Pretty certain there should be a slight amount of slop in the pushrod when the pedal is fully released.

thats exactally whats happening, master is building pressure, however the pushrod has plenty of slop in it after bleeding.... but it doesnt stay that way!

hair pulling stuff

Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

where about is this port located?

where about is this port located?

If your looking into the master cylinder, it the small hole closest to the main bore opening. If its out of adjustment the seal will cover the port, stopping the warming fluid from re-entering the reservoir.

so basically i need to strip it down and clean it all out...

Yep, but you also need to make sure you havent fitted a spacer or washer in the wrong spot. In the relaxed position the seal needs to be slightly back from the compensating port.

why not just buy a new master? very cheap and save all this hassle.... rebuilding is fine but for all the hassels youve had id just f**k it off and get a brand spanka. you could possibly have the seals in the wroung way also... primary/ secoendry seals backwards etc.

Compensating port is blocked, fluid heats up and cant return to reservior, therefore it expands and disengages clutch. If you have freeplay at adjustable rod you need to make sure the port isnt blocked.

This is the right answer, you don't need new! Find out, in your assembly of the master, why the seal is covering the hole so the fluid can't return to the reservoir.

I have been through a couple of aftermarket clutch masters and 1 slave cyls.

$75 for the master and $38 for the slave.

The aftermarket master behind a 1+tonne clutch doesn't last too long I average ~40,000km's before they begin to leak. :S

All clutch brake Edwardstown.

I'll go a genuine master and nismo slave (reduced pedal effort) next time roud as I'm sick of removing and installing.

I have been through a couple of aftermarket clutch masters and 1 slave cyls.

$75 for the master and $38 for the slave.

The aftermarket master behind a 1+tonne clutch doesn't last too long I average ~40,000km's before they begin to leak. :S

All clutch brake Edwardstown.

I'll go a genuine master and nismo slave (reduced pedal effort) next time roud as I'm sick of removing and installing.

your telling me.. its a fair prick of a job to remove it all, ive done it about 3-4 times now (once cause my clutch peddle box broke)

i'll pull it out and strip the master down again. no idea where this compensating port is but i'll try and figure it out :whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...