Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

i got a r32 gtst ,recently got few niggy problems,

#1 , when driving low rpm, under 2000 , blow 20 ks, on corners, very hard. if on high rpm,above 5000, over 60ks, everything is fine. found out a bit wrong with rack, but not 100% sure if it is the pump or rack. something leaking underneath, any same exprience before guys?

#2 , probably caused by problem 1, when lose accelerator pedal while driving (few times), or most of the times from high speed to low, rpm just decreased to 0 and sits there for 2 sec then dies unless push back pedal. its very annoying and im not sure whats the problem.

car pretty much standard, just turbo back exhaust and turboX bov, air filter. thats all. any suggestions>? cheers

vic

hmmm sounds like a pain in the arse problem..

um check ur seals on ur rack if they are leaking or ur power steering pump seals from the lines etc

only thing i know about werid heavy steering was with my speedo my power steering cut out and my speedo stoped working ..

fixed speedo power steering returned. but good luck if nothing i said helped O.o

andrew

thanks very much guys, i asked mech to check it out, but he only told me that there is something wrong with rack, i need to get it replaced or reconditioned, but said nothing about the pump. i need to ask to check it again if it is really the problem.

but what's wrong with da cut off thing? it's not happen every time unless i drive it a bit harder, but nothing too hard, normally it will back to 800-1000, otherwise it will die after 2 seconds stops at 0. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...