Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

well i was going to buy some whiteline sway bars but the thread started on here wont get back to me so im going into autobahn tomoro to buy some. I was just wondering what size is best for drift... ive been told thick front good and slightly skiny rear and good traction.... but if i want to set up car for drift is fat rear good??

ANyone recommend some thicknesses for r32 gtst 4 door for front and rear whiteline sway bars.

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179657-sway-bars/
Share on other sites

actualy autobahn are $20 more expensive each than SK but i need these urgently.. Im going in today to sort things out with them. I know a few guys who work there so i get it fairy cheap. I dont know about saving $60?? I know commodores are cheaper to buy for than skylines so maybe u have a diff make of car... i dont know... maybe you got lucky.... but me mate told me he cant do them for $189 cause thats prettymuch what they pay after they have it delivered to thre store.

Anyways... i think i might get the fattest ones i can.. thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179657-sway-bars/#findComment-3272734
Share on other sites

If the autobarn guys can't guarantee that the bars will have minimum 3 hole adjustment (they usually have 2 hole these days) then get 24mm front, 24mm rear. It will be the only way you can balance the car.

If they are only 2 hole then you will need to set the front on hard and the rear on soft and that should be fairly balanced. If you want the thing more taily then put them both on hard.

If you go bigger on the front without the 3 hole (minimum) adjustment either end then you will not be able to dial out the understeer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179657-sway-bars/#findComment-3273676
Share on other sites

Swaybars are the single best enhancement you can do for the handling of your car. They essentially link the sides of your suspension and minimize the body roll, which means your car handle much better through corners.

Make sure you buy adjustable swap bars. Adjustable bars allow you to tune in or out understeer/oversteer as required. The incremental cost of adjustable bars over non-adjustable is minimal for what you get in return.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179657-sway-bars/#findComment-3280935
Share on other sites

For skylines, 24mm front and 22mm rear seem to work best with normalish spring rates for street use.. Swaybars work well because they simply have the least downsides for controlling roll compared to the other methods like springs (lose compliance) and low speed bump (lose midcorner grip).

Edited by salad
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179657-sway-bars/#findComment-3281488
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...