Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fark you Dan ! Now I am seriously thinking about a RB25DET transplant -

Power to weight would be unreal ! S12 is only 1100kgs.

Did my first mod on the weekend ! ha ha ha ha - I have no control whatsoever when it comes to modding cars.

A nice set of Buddy Club p1 16" wheels (same type as on my old skyline) - got them for cheap !

This will be a great track car - Once I work out how to put all the Skyline stuff in it (Engine, Brakes, Diff - well maybe not diff - this is proving to be a hassle)

  • Replies 183
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

b-man, don't over capitalise a shitty car. rather than buying the $500 car and then spending $10K on it and still having a $500 car (albeit a much faster one) I say practice some stunt driving in it, don't spend any more, then when it dies buy something good!

Just chuck in a CA18DET, backyard jobbie, and do the suspension and brakes and diff on the cheap with second hand bits as you find them. That way you'll have a cheap daily which will also function well on the track or whatnot if you want to practise some drifting. No point going all out because at the end of the day its still a gazelle and will be worth nothing.

Just chuck in a CA18DET, backyard jobbie, and do the suspension and brakes and diff on the cheap with second hand bits as you find them. That way you'll have a cheap daily which will also function well on the track or whatnot if you want to practise some drifting. No point going all out because at the end of the day its still a gazelle and will be worth nothing.

Yep, thats the plan I'd take too.

DO ITTTTTTTTTTTTTT :D

I have to agree with them all B-man, probably best to not spend a fortune on it, just make it a bit of fun... kill it, then get something better, and have I got the car to step up to...

A fully built R33 Drift Car... Cheap!

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi All,

So you know I bought the S12

First thing I did was put new wheels on it - Buddy Club P1s

Then I put Lowered Springs in the back

Also changed the rear Shocks to Monroe Gas - (HQ Shocks)

Then I put KYP Excel-G shocks in the front

Changed the centre bearing on the tail shaft.

Fixed up the little bit of rust in the rear sil

Painted it up - But I got the wrong Colour blue -

So I thought - Fark it ! I'll paint the whole car.

So yesterday, I prepped and primed the front

Today I sprayed it silver - Yep - new colour for the S12.

Here are some pics. It's just had 2 coats so far - will Buff i back with some 1000 or 2000 W&D then another coat and so forth until I am happy with it -

Then I might give it a coat or two of clear.

First time I have sprayed a car ! ha ha ha

PICT0543.JPG

PICT0544.JPG

PICT0545.JPG

PICT0546.JPG

PICT0547.JPG

PICT0548.JPG

PICT0549.JPG

One Drift/Circuit PIG coming up ! ha ha

Farken - Might just put R33 4 pot brakes, and rear disc conversion and good suspension. Won't need any power - Will be able to overtake everyone on braking & cornering. :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
    • Yep that's pretty much what I want to see. Racecars that look and sound like the Group A but with newer tech underneath to make them faster and safer. I'm sure there's enough VK-to-VN commodore, E30 BMWs and Foxbody mustangs shells around to make up a decent number of cars with hopefully a couple of sierras, rx7 and R31s in there too. 
    • Contact Jessestreeter.com/Skevas Racing/JustJap for a new r34 rb gearbox or go a cd00# conversion. No point playing with unknown condition gearboxes.
    • Such a shame places like Amaroo Park have been redeveloped, smaller tracks always make for good racing. Cheers for sharing @PranK there's some good Lakeside video's too. Its so hard with older the cars as parts are so rare and everything was made for a particular chassis at that point in time. Even the V8 Supercar Blueprint era cars are all different between each chassis within a team as they learnt things and made improvements. The COTF cars between each Chassis builder is different too especially motor/oil systems/intakes. The Group A stuff is worth so much too especially chassis with good history. The only way to do it would be composite panels and similar engine drivelines to the original cars. Ford sierra running Focus RS driveline, Commodore running a short stroke LS/LT or a Falcon with coyote and a H Pattern dog box. Could use a standard ecu across all models with a Torque Map and DBW for parity which is not even used in Supercars currently. Hell a TCM is almost a full chassis car these days and the suspension is not even close to standard style in the front running cars.  
×
×
  • Create New...