Jump to content
SAU Community

boost guage

ImPrOvIsE

By ImPrOvIsE,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

adam 32 Grand Master

adam 32

Posted
Posted

i still think despite the age of your car, if the actuator line is in good condition and is getting an accurate pressure reading then boost pressure will always be constant

zanda no i wouldnt stress. youve always got the boost cut at around 12psi (i think) which would prevent and mecanical damage

  • 2 weeks later...
caminperth Grand Master

caminperth

Posted
Posted

hmm.. Suprising because of the mechanical nature of the actuator.

It is my understanding that the mechanical actuator measures the boost level on the compressor side of the turbo and when this level gets to a certain pre-determined point (ie 6 to 7psi for an R33) it then "actuates" or opens the wastegate to keep the boost at that level.

If this is correct, then I fail to see how making the flow in and out (inlet and exhaust) of the turbo will in any way change how this mechanical actuator works. It will still open the wastegate as soon as it sees the set boost level.

The only way I can think that it could possibly produce more boost is if the increase in flow through the turbo is greater than what the wastegate can deal with. Therefore the wastegate is at maximum flow and still more air is flowing due to the increase in size/flow of the inlet and exhaust (predominately the exhaust), producing more boost.

I did not think that the maximum wastegate flow would be so low as to let this happen. I was obviously wrong. Hence I find it suprising.

Always good to find out new stuff. :rolleyes:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...