Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

anyone got any ideas on if this would be better than supercharging?

also anyone got any ideas on what needs to be done eg change of gearbox etc

anything would be appreciated as im trying to convince my bro in law to do this rather than supercharging

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17997-turbocharging-a-vt-v6-auto/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The boxes are strong but not very smooth. Plenty of hot up parts for the boxes as theyare the same 4 speed out of the Corvette.

Budget, budget, budget. I think a supercharger kit (CAPA etc) would be cheaper at what i think is about $5k

Cool to see someone do twin turbo though

compression would be an issue as well though. those V6 engines were built for family commuting and therefore low down torque and not all-out power.

if you turbo-ed it you could probably only run 5-6psi safely

personally i wouldnt bother with a holden 6. get a nissan 6 or a v8 :P

well theyre both forms of forced induction. one aimed at torque and one at max power. given the characteristics of the engine id suggest supercharging it. but its getting blood out of a stone really - its never going to be a super-quick car on a budget. it would be more financially viable to trade it in and start a performance car project with a more suited car

A couple of ideas,

1. buy an eaton (roots type) blower from holden, the blower itself is alot cheaper from them than if you source one from CAPA (ie under 2k), or

2. buy an RB20, do a conversion - may even be cheaper than a blower, definately cheaper than 2 turbos - and better fuel economy to boot :)

Read zoom, as they have done an RB conversion into a vs... I was going to put an RB25 into my VS berlina but it wasnt worth the time or money... too heavy and a VT is heavier.

Out of the two i would choose turbo for the 3800, always more tractable and fun, but still easy on the engine if you drive slow... but like others have said it depends on your budget.

I remember also in zoom they did a twin turbo conversion using oem turbos and doing it as cheap as possible on a falcon 6 and did it for under $5000.

There is also a single turbo holden 6 up here in brisbane that hardcore performance built and made 320hp at the wheels with low boost but forged pistons so he can raise the boost later.

There are a million things to consider.....

Whack the standard Holden supercharger on it & use a smaller pulley.

That way the supercharger spins faster & you get more power.

A mate of mine is an engineer at Tickfords.

They did this when the supercharged Commodore was first released.

He reckons they got awesome power out of it until it exploded!

Still, a milder version of this extreme experiement should work.

The NA Holden V6 is significantly different to the supercharged variant. From memory the heads arent interchangeable, nor is the blower a simple bolt on, mods are required.

I still think a CAPA or equiv kit is the cheapest/best option.

Only an idea... but if budget permits, sell the std V6, buy a supercharged engine, rip off the blower and selll it too, then go the twin turbo route. Should be able to run about 10psi on RB20 turbos or similar for a good hit of torque and hp.

Its always so easy to tell people how they should spend their money.

Superchargers on the VS's and VT's etc when slapping a smaller pulley don't tend to make much more top end power. However the mid range increases dramatically but it is still a slowish car that will have a hard time with the new R8's not to mention another Boosted skyline.

I personally would go turbo as in the long run you will save money on fuel compared to a supercharger. Turbo's are free horsepower superchargers are not.

Twin turbo wouldn't be to difficult to do. You would need to be able to remap the standard ECU when I think some one in adelaide is able to do. 2 x manifolds for each bank close to 2k.. The two RB20DET Turbo's $800. It really doesn't add up to that much. I think it could be done for 5k pretty easily providing you don't run the Injectors etc out of scope. Then it starts costing money and work on the internals.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 49719 is the cooler loop. Right at the front, LHS of that diagram. Return line from rack (LP side) goes to cooler loop on RHS front of car, then back under engine and returns to bottom of tank. 49717M is feed from tank to pump. HP line out of pump is thick rubber, followed by the hard line that runs down to crossmember and runs in parallel (but opposite flow direction) to the LP return line. Nothing goes anywhere near the firewall or interior of car. The closest they get to that is the connections on the rack.
    • Thanks, plan is to drain all fluid tomorrow and do smoke test to find out the leak.   Appreciate your help and want to understand how the system work. So cooling is achieved by the long loop not any rad? The diagram seems to suggest it connects to somewhere inside the cabin and I thought that is a cooler inside firewall. If you look at the diagram it seems to show it connects to something inside firewall. I tried chasing it but not easy unless I take loads off   i am confident pump is good as fluid goes in and it gets soft( steering) but as soon as I turn engine off , loads of bubble come to surface and overflow. When engine is on , fluid level is below minimum but when off it shoots off and thinking it is sucking air in. I suspect aluminium pipe may have a crack line or whole   smoke test with no fluid should be a good start and if needed will remove the pump   In addition, the one going under the engine bay is high pressure line and one directly connecting from pump to resorvoir is return/ low pressure?   finally I searched and suggestion is to use dexron 2 but that is discontinued so bought dexron 3 as all research suggest it is compatible and shouldn’t cause any issues/ blow seals. I bought two liter of dexron 3 motul atf
    • Don't worry about. Just don't try to drive hard enough to make boost and you'll be fine.
    • Yes. This has already been said. It is a loop of hardline in front of the radiator. Because.... the pump is on the LHS and the steering rack hydraulic connections are where they always are on a RHD steering rack....on the RHS. The high pressure line goes down under the engine, along the crossmember, like it does on all Skylines. Don't just throw expensive braided hoses/other kits at it. Work out what is wrong and fix that.
    • Still got the afm on the intake, clamps are shut tight, only loose hose is the one that goes from the j pipe towards the IACV, since it's next to impossible to find a factory hose and the barbs are different sizes (I'm still using clamps on this hose to try and help it seal on the iacv side) I've ordered parts to make up the hotside of the intercooler pipes, I'll plumb it in and see what happens in a few days I suppose The turbo's internally gated, can I just unscrew the tension rod to let the gate open?
×
×
  • Create New...