Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hmmm autogauge are ok, quite cheap though:

Boost = wouldn't trust it, mine bent the needle and didn't work

Oil, Water temp = fine

Oil pressure = seems ok, pretty close to factory, not 100% though

A/F ratio = wouldn't trust, I'd get something better to be honest

Volts = yeah, not that important

You can usually pick them up off trademe here in NZ for round $30-$40 each or ebay for $12.99 plus shipping

To be honest though, for the ones that are critical to your system spend your money on something better, DEFI, HKS, Apexi or Autometer

The Apexi EL gauges are round $140AUS i think and you can get the standalone ones that don't require the control, mechanical boost

hmm cheers for that.. the series i was looking at is the smoked face one's (they have a blank face when turned off but light up and show the meter when in use), they look great and are cheap as :) but i don’t really want to spend the money on something that doesn’t work correctly.. id spend up to $100 each for good one's (keen on air fuel ratio, boost and maybe oil pressure, undecided), so DEFI, HKS< Apexi or Autometer is the way to go?

Dont cheap out on gauges mate, they are what tell you whats going on. I am not saying spend $250 a gauge, but at least get autometer or 2nd hand japanese ones.

A/F gauges are useless because they use a narrow band O2 sensor, not a wideband like is needed.

If you want black-face gauges, Bryce, there are a few options. Autobarn sell some (I think), then there are the JustJap ones (are these the AutGauge ones?), Saber gauges, and ProSport ones from Lynx Corporation (who are in Erina!).

Unfortunately, the Defi's don't come in BlackFace in the 52mm ones - otherwise I would have got those too. My boost gauge is going in the clock-replacement pod, so I got a BlackFace for that (in 60mm) because it will pretty much be in plain view, and I like my stealth... Avoids break-ins too, hopefully.

I use autometer for boost (left over from mysupra), and it appears to be pretty good, although its not blsck faced when off. A couple of the young 'uns I know speak highly of the driftt series (I think that's how they spell it), which does go blank when off, and I believe is made specifically for autobarn, or they're the sole distributor, or something like that

i made a triple gauge din cluster for my R33 with Autogauge Oil Press, Oil Temp, Water Temp.

the only problem i had is that they are actally quite hard to read in day light. they look great at night, but on a normal summers day, i found myself having to lean in toward them and cup my hand around them in order to read them. the water temp was the worst and i ended up replacing it with a cheap white faced no-name brand one that read 10 degrees high.

i'm about to buy another 52mm autogauge oil press for my HR31.

hope this helps.

BTW, i'll have a spare 52mm AutoMeter AFR guage shortly if ur interested (excuse the gratuitious advert!)

hmm lots to consider, thanks everyone ;)

i personally prefer autometer.. iv got a complete 8 gauge full sweep ultra-lite series setup in my 240z but they were very very expensive.. would prefer to spend as less as possible but don’t want to substitute quality or performance.. defi is looking good! currently on sale on nengun, does anyone have the sizes of a standard din?

Do your auto guages make the beep noise when they turn on ?

Otherwise yeh, im happy with mine. Got oil Temp, boost and Oil Pressure (cos r32 gtr oil pressure guages suck the big one)

They are all mounted in the stock location.. i dont like the guages everywhere look. Might get a photo later and post up

hmm lots to consider, thanks everyone ;)

i personally prefer autometer.. iv got a complete 8 gauge full sweep ultra-lite series setup in my 240z but they were very very expensive.. would prefer to spend as less as possible but don’t want to substitute quality or performance.. defi is looking good! currently on sale on nengun, does anyone have the sizes of a standard din?

Brycey, if you're keen to come down to a Coasties meet, I can show you my set-up - they're still not hooked up, but I have the gauges in there. I just have to find the time to run all the sensors and plug them in.

Basically, you'll need a piece of plastic roughly 180x60x10mm - the width and height you can file down later, and the thickness is good so you can screw it in to the bracket that holds the stereo/climate control in (assuming you're going to mount it in there like I have).

Defis004.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uncle Duncan Yeap, FI Interchiller  Works well, normal IAT's cruising with the WTA only went from 50°c+ to 25-30°c with the interchiller  Before, when on it hard, the IAT would see 80-90°c, now, the highest has been was around 38°c IIRC I recommend it for the street or strip where your only on it hard for 10 or so seconds, but it wouldn't be efficient for sustained track use as it would heat soak from the AC turning off or whatever it does during WOT to protect the compressor It really needs the AC running for it to not heat soak and keep the WTA coolant chilled My WTA coolant temps when just cruising is around 2°c
    • Hey Mark...sorry to interrupt your career change to hair dressing... but...did you ever fit the interchiller to the commodore, and if so how was it? And, who made it?
    • I've been pondering this, I really enjoy the convertible thing, for me, it's like riding a motorbike, without all the issue of riding a motorbike, mainly, my old sore arthritic joints getting beaten up, and, being able to do it in shorts and a T-shirt and not needing a helmet and all the other gear required, especially like wearing jackets and pants in the summer, or needing 6 layers of cloths in the winter, or not having wet weather gear handy when your 100km away from home on the bike when it decides to start raining As for the hard top and its Coupe look, whilst I do lose all that open top feeling that I really enjoy, from my experience with the NB with a detachable hard top, the cabin is a much nicer place to be, the difference in noise for one, a hard top quietens down the interior, alot, with the soft top up or down it's pretty noisy, which, after 5 or so hours, can get tiring But, as you stated, the detachable hard top totally changes the look of the car, in a really good way, and for me, the look of a detachable hard top is so much better than the PRHT which looks more like a after thought with its weird bulbous rear roof line For me, the minimal effort of putting in on, or storing it after removing it, is well worth the time and effort for the look alone And yes, I'm sure the next owner will be grateful for it as well.......  
    • I get into huffs with people when I suggest the MX5 looks so much better as a coupe than it does as convertible. Pretty sure I don't prefer the convertible version of anything. Good job on the hardtop! The next buyer will appreciate.
    • IMO wrap does have its uses, but like you said, quality wrap, and professional installation, would probably cost want a quality paint job does, but, the paint, if maintained, is basically for life, and much easier to touch up if required  In other news: it's pissing down here, with thunder, lightning and only some small hail "at this stage", luckily all "my" cars are undercover  I've also been contacted by a guy in Newcastle about the SS, he said he will come down next weekend for a look, we'll see how that transpires I guess 🫰
×
×
  • Create New...