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hi i hav a skyline r33 gtst auto, my mods are turboback exhaust, greddy fmic, blitz podfilter, greddy emanage, and dual stage boost controller, i recently put the e-manage in n got it tuned with new spark plugs. it dynoed at 194 kilwatts at 14psi, but as u can c in da readout ders a massive power loss, and den it shoots back up, my mechanic said ur cam timing is mostly likely out, i just wanted to know that when the cam timing is fixed if that is the problem, if i will gain more kilawatts, and secondly with the mods i have, is the kilwatts matching the mods i have?

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Ok.

1. Back off the boost to 12psi at the most. 14psi WILL shorten the life of the turbo. Its been proven time and time again.

2. Its either timing is out, or the tune is shit. There are only two choices there... and its pretty dreadful at that.

Once its fixed, you back the boost off to an an acceptable level, you'll make around 180rwkw being the auto will suck a tad of the power

hi i hav a skyline r33 gtst auto, my mods are turboback exhaust, greddy fmic, blitz podfilter, greddy emanage, and dual stage boost controller, i recently put the e-manage in n got it tuned with new spark plugs. it dynoed at 194 kilwatts at 14psi, but as u can c in da readout ders a massive power loss, and den it shoots back up, my mechanic said ur cam timing is mostly likely out, i just wanted to know that when the cam timing is fixed if that is the problem, if i will gain more kilawatts, and secondly with the mods i have, is the kilwatts matching the mods i have?

why would the cam timing be out? have you had a new timing belt put on? i doubt its cam timing

That dyno sheet shows a massive loss in power, whats it like to drive on the street before and after the tune? does it feel like its hesitating? Your max hp is pretty much spot on for the mods, so i wouldnt really expect you to gain much more power, but that mid range definately needs to be fixed up, and you will notice a big difference on the street once that is done. Did you have a dyno reading before the tune? I cant believe someone would send that out the door and say its "tuned"

looks like R&R to me aswell.

it pulls a heap of timing out as soon as you hit 13psi and then when it tapers off again the ecu starts to behave again. I hope you did not get charged for that "tune" :P

could also be coils breaking down. ucd15r33's dyno sheet looked like that and he has a remapped ecu and a emanage. his car was missfiring and there was a coresponding drop in power, then it came good and boosted up again. i will post the graph of it soon.

hang on a second....

This is a auto yeah ?? then wait.. that graph may not be what it looks like... Think about it.. it starts at 70k's an hour and goes all the way up to 170.

Now correct me if i am wrong but a auto CANNOT do that in second gear. my car was auto when i got it. So i know.

I think what has happened is that the way the guy did the dyno run. that long flat spot would be where he backed it off to change gears and then when it settled in the gear he floored it again.

If you look in the middle of the line you can see it was going up a little then back down again.. that was done with the accelerator.

If the car did have a curve like that it would feel sooo sluggish till about 5000rpm and then come on very hard.

Its just the way he did the power run i wreckon.. I dont think its because of the tune. it could be but looking at that there must have been a gear change somewhere and this tuner may have been just looking to get a max power print out for his customer because max power is where its at these days!! lol

Seems soo easy for people to out and blame the tuner all the time.. tuner this tuner that.. rah rah rah.. maybe it was his fault for letting a crappy print out like that from his shop he could have done a ramp from 110ks an hour to 180 and get a better curve.. BUT i cant say that for sure there could be many reasons for why he did it this way.

Edited by Guilt-Toy

can you tell me what speed does your car change from second to third?? from memory i think it was at least around 120 - 130ks an hour right where the big power increase comes in and goes straight up.

I think i may be right on this one.. the only thing that confuses me a bit is the boost curve... may be boost controller related or maybe he did not back off the accelerator too much to bring it up to speed for the final power figure.

*shrug* i am open to any comments if anything thinks i am wrong. i have had a auto r31 skyline rb30e on the dyno and when it changed from first to second it felt like the dyno was going to top over the car nearly jumped off it (i was not driving the owner was i was just using the controlls) and the way i had to get the power run properly was to get him to drive it to 100ks an hour and then start the run from there in 3rd gear. Worked well.. 105rwkw

full power in third gear was using 10 - 12 psi as you can see where the power flats out on the power curve the boost went down to that level.

I think this tune may be good and if it is this car should feel pretty quick on the street.

Ok.

1. Back off the boost to 12psi at the most. 14psi WILL shorten the life of the turbo. Its been proven time and time again.

2. Its either timing is out, or the tune is shit. There are only two choices there... and its pretty dreadful at that.

Once its fixed, you back the boost off to an an acceptable level, you'll make around 180rwkw being the auto will suck a tad of the power

A auto with that much power on a dyno in second gear at full noise will come very close to jumping off the dyno ESPECIALLY when it changes to third gear.

I think it was the way the dyno run was done.

The only way we are going to know for sure is to get the owner of the car to tell us how the car drives on the street. does it pull hard from 2500rpm onwards all the way or does it feel dead and no ones home untill 5500rpm.

but at full noise in 2nd gear it should be making more than 120kw (closer to 195kw), and the boost should drop off as there wouldn't be as much load.

i still reakon it is a spark issue.

the run was done in 3rd gear.

theres no spikes where it changed gear so that tells me that the tuner doesnt know about the magic brown plug, and hence he has slowly built the speed up past the point of no return for second gear and then he has planted it.

behind the driver side head light there is a group of electrical conectors.

find the brown one and unplug it.

this will lock the car in drive, so the tuner can then load up the car throughout the whole rev range without it kicking back to second and trying to kill everyone.

aprt from that power is ok but not great.

i had 187 from stock computer, stock auto.

sell the emanage and put a power fc on it...

A auto with that much power on a dyno in second gear at full noise will come very close to jumping off the dyno ESPECIALLY when it changes to third gear.

I think it was the way the dyno run was done.

The only way we are going to know for sure is to get the owner of the car to tell us how the car drives on the street. does it pull hard from 2500rpm onwards all the way or does it feel dead and no ones home untill 5500rpm.

thats exactly it.

or do what dangerman said and unplug the brown plug and get it on the dyno again.

yeah i didnt think it was the tuners fault. i heard good things about this tuner in particular so if anyone reads this thread dont think he is a bad tuner. he is a good tuner he just does not know about the brown plug in the r33's to lock it in drive. (neither did i to be honest)

I am willing to bet the tune is good and the car would be fun to drive.

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