Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how well does the PFC controll the auto ? i heard you dont get as much life from the auto because the computer does not "fart" the engine :D (sounds like a fart from the exhaust)

the run was done in 3rd gear.

theres no spikes where it changed gear so that tells me that the tuner doesnt know about the magic brown plug, and hence he has slowly built the speed up past the point of no return for second gear and then he has planted it.

behind the driver side head light there is a group of electrical conectors.

find the brown one and unplug it.

this will lock the car in drive, so the tuner can then load up the car throughout the whole rev range without it kicking back to second and trying to kill everyone.

aprt from that power is ok but not great.

i had 187 from stock computer, stock auto.

sell the emanage and put a power fc on it...

the auto will still run with the pfc, it just won't be quiet as smooth on the gearchanges. most people who are ignorant and just hop in and drive probably wouldn't even notice.

i asume thats a crack at me....

Ignorant hey...

Sorry i havent read the full right up that you did when you installed a power fc into your S1 r33 gtst.

i must have missed you finding's, showing the trans to change gears at random and be really harsh on changes.

If you could kindly guide me to your own threads about the topic with proof, then i will axcept your critisism and move on,

unfortunately its knobs like you that spread rumors and bad ideas about things you have absolutely no idea about.

ive been there and done that for several years now, starting from completely stock to up over 300 kws thru the r33 auto.

the trans is serviced regurally by Mike from MV Automatics, and hasnt missed a beat.

12 months ago mike stripped my working trans and did the whole trans upgrade with a high stall.

Internally he couldnt fault the box, and it showed no signs of exsessive heat or damage from running over 300kws on a daily basis, controlled by the PFC.

most people miss the whole point of running a PFC with an auto.

yes on a stock trans, with stock shift kit the gear changes may be ever so slightly harsher.

but generally speaking if someone is installing a PFC then they are allready up around the 180 - 200kw range, and would allready have a shift kit installed. so the shifts are nice and crisp regardless of ecu.

the best thing about the auto r33 is how smooth they are. they change gears very nice etc etc.

I have had a ecu in my car when it was auto and the gear changes were a bit savage compared to stock ecu. id like to know how a emanage handles it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
    • Hi guys, has anyone either purchased or built themselves a rotisserie for their car before? I can only just justify the need for one hence why I should just make one but at the same time, if I make one I can kiss another 4 weeks of potentially productive car working time goodbye because I'm building a bloody rotisserie....  I mainly want it for the application of the body deadener.  Cleaning the old stuff off, priming and then colour over the deadener doesn't worry me, it's just the application using the Schutz Gun that I feel would achieve a significantly better finish painting it side on and keeping the Schutz Gun upright.  I don't think they would work well on the side let alone almost upside down for some areas.  If the product I use (Terosun, etc) could work through a HVLP ok then it might be ok to apply without the rotisserie.   I can get one of these style ones for about $1200 which is pretty good value-     I reckon if I made one it would cost around $500 but it's more the time that it would take is more of a killer than the cost.  They look to hold their value pretty well second hand so I could always sell it after using it and realistically only lose $200-$300 at worst.  Or keep it and buy another project when this one finally sees the light of day... Anyone selling one...? Cheers!  
    • While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
×
×
  • Create New...