Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok well im in the process of tearing down my rb26 when i ran into this intresting problem. when removing the cam caps to free the camshaft from the head some (like 3 per exhaust/intake) are getting stuck!!! they are really, really hard to remove. they should unbolt with some easy and pretty much free float in the cap, but for some reason a couple are like stuck, i mean my electric impact gun(removes lugnuts with ease) is having trouble freeing them!! the only way i got them out was to push up on the bolt head as i used the impact gun!! it was redicules!!! the threads inside the head are fine! i took one of the good free floating cam bolts and tried to stick it in the cam cap that had a froozen bolt in it and the good bolt wouldn't fit through!! why would this be?? has this hapened to anyone eles???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180042-cam-cap-problems/
Share on other sites

all the bolts are the same its the caps that are the problem!! if i take a bolt at fit in smoothly and with ease in one cap and then put it in one of the caps i had to force the bolt out of the new bolt wont fit! what if to fix the problem i was to sand the bolt down smoother or drill out the cap bolt holes a little bigger would that hurt at all?

sounds to me like either the cam is bent, or possibly the bolts or maybe (big maybe) the caps themselves. when you removed them you should have been lossening them in the correct order and lossening them bit by bit, not all at once.

I've had issues with mine in the past, seem to be a common occurance

Usually 3-4 days with WD40 left soaking, put on each morning gets them out

If not though, be careful, they break easily, I'd suggest taking one of the bolts to a bolt/washers shop and get them replaced with the same thread

I think the reason they get jammed up is a heat and expansion thing, so best option is to replace them, I paid like $0.30c for a bolt the same thread and height, in black too

when i pulled the head apart on my r32 most of the cam cap bolts were seized some were so bad they had to be pressed out once the caps were removed. I thought it was because the motor had a lot of sludge in it from a severe lack of servicing. a reconditioner told me it is a common problem.

yeah very common. especally 32. moisture gets in and the cap corodes to the bolt. just undo them if you can and bang them out. also the r32s dont have numbers on the caps. so mark them respectivly.

just wiggle them back and forth slowly. dont go fast cos it will heat up and the bolt will break in the cap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do...   PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.
    • Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...
    • Right, but I thought the problem has been for a while now that even if you know manifold pressure + throttle position you still have non-linearity and aliasing issues vs actual engine load? One way I can see things simplifying is going DBW, then all air going into the engine is represented by the throttle position. As opposed to a random bimetallic strip vaguely linked to engine temperature opening and closing a shutter or some random power steering air valve suddenly allowing a bunch of bypass air. But the same throttle position/RPM at ~atmospheric MAP in different gears is not guaranteed to be same engine load? Honestly, ITBs are of such dubious value IMO. I don't know why these things are hyped up so much. The main benefit as far as I can tell is you reduce the likelihood of cross-cylinder EGR scavenging with significant cam overlap at idle. I would absolutely run speed density and be done with it if not for this fairly esoteric control problem.
    • Hah dont worry, my adult brain has this conversation every single day. Dont waste your money, invest more of it into shares, pay down the mortgage. Then the bedtime insta doom scrolling begins and after being bombarded with gtr's my mind is set: im definitely getting one! I have the current model mx5 as the weekender, but i just miss my boost and literally like your username, the sututu's that come with it. I remember with my 2nd supra, as it had twins and vvti, they used to spool real early, like 1,500rpm so you could just be a spooly boy all day long. Some people say they get over it after a while, not me tho. 
    • If you need to refinance your mortgage and reset the loan terms back to 30 years and cash out on your equity for "investment" purposes *cough* car parts, I can help 😊
×
×
  • Create New...