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Even though I have been a member since 04 this is my first post and I just got a 94 R32 GTR, it's got an R33 RB26 in it, since the original RB26 was blown. It has R34 N1 ball bearing Turbos on it, Nismo 550cc injectors, Nismo Fuel pump, Nismo cams, hks up pipes , down pipes, hard pipes and decat, nismo exhaust, 4" front mount intercooler, Apexi power FC and a exedy dual stage clutch, as far as the drivetrain and motor goes. The guy I got it from told me the MAF sensors were maxxed out and if I wanted to get more power that all I needed to do was get two 300zx TT MAFs and with the N1s and the 550cc injectors I could run 550hp the way it was setup. I haven't had the chance to get it on a dyno yet, he said it's at 440hp at the wheels right now w/15psi of boost. And I've driven it at 15psi, and it feels like it. I was thinking first I would get the Nismo adjustable fuel pressure regulator, and an oil cooler kit for it, but I wanted to make sure if I did change these MAF sensors and crank the boost up... will the factory drivetrain and internals handle that much HP??? This is my first Skyline, I've done alot of research on them before, and heard that they are pretty much bullet proof, and can handle 1000hp on the factory block. But I wanted to make sure and do some more research before blowing the car up. I did do a search, trust me this isn't my first forum, lol, but didn't really find much, and also wasn't too sure what to type in the search bar. But I did search for awhile to no avail. Thanks for the help and advice.

I've also got an Innovative turbo based off the Turbonetics T68 Dual Ball bearing turbo left over from my RX-7 Turbo II project that I might put under the hood of the R32, but not sure yet...

Edited by Horse
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depends what you want to do with the car

I'll probably get flamed for this but here goes.

If you're planing to us it on the track where mid to high revs are constantly the go then in my own opinion you'd have to upgrade the internals, oil pump, maybe even the block, etc etc etc. Hey you could get 1000 hp but its not going to last to long in std form with track work. With what the seller told you about the upgrades to 550+ then yeah go for it. I reckon it would handle it ok as long as all is good with the eng. at the moment. Of coarse there will be exceptions out there on the hp. issue. I can feel them writing now. Pretty much all comes down to how much dough you want to spend now rather than how much your prepared to spend fixing it later. So many variables. What to do? m2c

Mick

ps. good article in 'High Performance Imports' magazine no. 80 with a comparison with 2jz.

worth reading.

The most powerful Skylines in Australia are close to 900hp with massive twin turbos (T04Z's etc), stoker kits and pushing 40+ pounds of boost on N1 blocks (which provide better cooling when the engine is under high stress). If your looking for 1000hp, good luck mate :D

HI,

From reading you thread, you were just making a statement on the fact that 1000 HP is possiable?

As for mods,

1-you must be running stock air flow meters at that horse power for them to be maxed? try a set od RB20 air flows they will be good for around 510-530 max, your N1 turbos will max out at around 450- 480 i think.

2- fuel pressure reg are probly not the way to got, if you put the fuel pressure up, yes you can get more out of them but you pump will deliver less fuel, it is still best to match your injectors to the power you are running, up-grade to the sard 700cc injector if you max you 550cc. do not forget to put in a good fuel pump.

3- as for the orignal question. you set up should be ok with the power you have, just be care full when shifting..... the 32 box will hold out ok till 500 RWHP or maybe 600 RWHP (but the R33 box is better).

40+ pounds of boost on N1 blocks (which provide better cooling when the engine is under high stress).

o rly?

i always bleev'd it was that they had a casting with a higher nickel content and greater wall thickness

+1 Topaz.

Its true, the early RB26 blocks are the same as N1 blocks, better cooling, and oil-ways. Oh, and the casting is better, there's more "webbing/structural support on the block too. Have a look at the outside of them compared with l8r ones, or non-N1's

Just what I know I suppose..!

your right Seeyagtr, I was using the 1000hp just as an example, I'm not shooting for 1000hp. I was just curious about what it can do, the car is really impressive the way it is and very street reliable. I just wanted to know if I did bump it to 550hp or maybe even a lil higher like 600 or 650, what would start to go out or need to be replaced.

I plan on putting forged pistons, new rods, and lifters. The air flow meters are the factory ones and need to be upgraded.

Why do you think I shouldn't upgrade the fuel pressure regulator, the factory one is pretty small, and the injectors (even if I upgrade, which if I turn it up I probally will) may not be reaching their full potential?

You need variable Pressure Reg for sure, especially if you're going to big injectors, you will max many things out, but dont let fuelling get weakened.

You need to maintain, or maybe increase pressure at full whack.

From what I've heard, the crank and rods are good for around 550hp, but the pistons won't handle more than 450hp.

Also, I'm not sure the N1's are rated to flow that much either.

Gearbox and driveshafts are Ok though.

I reckon before you turn up the wick to 550hp, you do the new pistons, rods, etc you mentioned along with an N1 oil pump. Oh, and the fuel pressure reg and Z32 AFM's you mentioned also.

While the engine's apart, put in some oil restrictors to slow down the flow of oil from the head.

My 2c :thumbsup:

I am pushin 500+ gee-gees now, and I not got Z32's on at the moment, but I am usin N1's plus other goodies @18psi.

Next week I fittin the MAF's, and re-dyno-in her, should be interesting, the present Maf's are maxed out at the moment, but there appears to be a whole heap more under the hood to go at as yet.

From what i know, you have to structure the way you tune the car, and each move will then compliment previous changes.

Standard GTR AFM's - will hit the max 5.115v at around 260rwkw

Just check your PowerFC to see voltage.

Also, your probabaly at the limit of a 33 gtr without really getting keen & rebuilding - however, I wouldnt rebuild unless its broke in which case put aside $$$ now for the rebuild when stuff breaks.

Edited by Penfold

Best to stay at the 5v max to be honest, but the power figure is debateable, the correlation between MAF and actual power is not quite as clear cut, a lot depends on other things, although it is a start figure I guess.

I have seen 270Kw at full Maf rating, and mine, which is far more Kw, and still std Mafs, although they do now restrict any advances in KW o/p.

Many other variables to consider as well I guess.

$$$'s is a good idea to put to one-side for the inevitable...!!, its a Skyline thing.

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