Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I took my R33 S2 to a Mechanic yeaterday due to lots of white spoke coming out the exhaust and some from the engine bay, he said that after removing the plugs he could see one of the cylinders filling with water and believed to be a crack in the cylinder head but couldn't confirm without pulling apart the engine and doing more test which was just gonna be more $$$ at this stage.

So here are my questions, whats the best way around this, i know its gonna cost, but what am i looking at, repairing a cycylinder, new cyclinder, what other options? And what can cause a cracked cyclinder head? I was told its quite uncommon in skylines, is this true? (It happened while driving in the heavy rain on Saturday in Melb)

thanks in advance.

Jamie

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180281-cracked-cylinder-head/
Share on other sites

Water could also be getting into the chamber from the inlet manifold if it has warped (overheated?).

I haven't seen any warning lights or anything appear on the dash, and never noticed the temp gauge up high... when it happened, the temp was a little above half. I have been doing a whole heap of extra highway driving between Melbourne and Ballarat of late, the revs are generally above average for the entire 2 hour trip (up and back). I also thought Ballarat being as cold as it is, I generally start work quite early and travel to work along 100km/h roads, maybe the cold to hot has fractured the head and has only come out now, maybe. dont kno, just throwing idea up i guess. But was still looking for idea on possible repairs of a cyclinder or head to a R33 and dollar figure?

Edited by Fenix

I've never seen or heard of a DOHC head thats cracked.

Headgasket yes.... But even then its rare unless its been detonating really bad which also smashes ring lands.

Be sure he doesn't take u for a ride and fork out for a complete cylinder head when its a $80 headgasket.

What I'm saying is its extremely super duper rare for a DOHC head to crack; for the mechanic to pull the spark plug and suggest a cracked head straight up sounds strange if he knew these motors.

Take it for a second opinion.

Yeah it could just be the gasket.

If you have had bad corrosion through the head (i.e. no coolant changes etc) it is possible to get corrosion around the water galleries and head gasket.

But yeah these motors arent really prone at all.

Pull it down yourself and take the head somewhere decent and get it tested. Check hoses etc and everything else first. Maybe there is a simpler answer.

I remember a friend that pulled a turbo off and put a new one on because he thought it was blown (heaps of smoke)..turned out being a valve for the auto trans fluid that was getting into the intake. A $5 valve

Check if there is water in the intake pipe!

Edited by benl1981

Thanks Heaps Guys,

I didnt want to jump and say, go replace my cylinder when it might be something like a $5 valve.

Will strip apart myself and see what I can identifiy, then yeah, take the parts to another mechanic for a second opinion if i dont find anythign obvious.

It is strange that he charged me $95 and without really doing too much investigating said that the cyclinder head was cracked.

Again Thanks

Jamie

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • All of that is absolutely true. At any time in the history of these turbos the lottery has always been that it could die at stock boost treated exactly as the factory intended, or it could die when pushed to 10, or 12, or 14, or 16 psi, after a short time, or a longer time, or it could last seemingly forever. You have the combination of all the possible statistical (probably) normal distributions of manufacturing tolerances and quality outcomes, on top of the statistical distributions of failure modes (which might be normal, but are probably biased, like Poisson distributions). You get the lucky turbo and you can beat on it for years. You get the really unlucky turbo and it will crap itself as it rolls out of the factory gate. And every possibility in between. But you can definitely still kill the lucky turbo. It's just that most people didn't try, once they knew they really shouldn't try.
    • Maybe I have Stockholm syndrome but working on an M2 isn't that hard. Getting parts cheaply and quickly is hard, but getting parts same day isn't necessarily hard if you're willing to pay way too much for it at local dealers. There's a lot going on, you need to have a build of ISTA on a laptop and the right cable, if you don't have the mindset of "do it exactly right or not at all" you will probably start seeing cascading failures. Skylines are a little more tolerant in that regard. The car doesn't potentially trash itself if you bought the wrong oil filter like a BMW would. Or trash the entire cylinder head and potentially spin a bearing because someone took the anti-drainback valve out of the plastic oil filter cap. An M2 will also do just fine on track, zero oil starvation concerns, factory brakes are great if you change the pads for a high temp compound + flush with track-ready fluid.
    • The "ideal/formula" that used to be touted was death of the turbo is going to be caused by a combination of 3 things. Heat Speed of turbo (boost level you're pushing) Time   Basically, you can get away with high heat and high boost for short periods. But start doing long hard pulls, or circuit driving etc, and now you've increased time as well which will shred things. From memory when Adrian was drag racing he was running 17psi, on a stock turbo, and running insane speeds. But he also had other additives helping in the setup too. Some people have success at 14psi for a while, while others due to pushing the cars hard for long periods opt down to lower temps. But also, generate a lot of heat (let's say bad tune), for a long time, and you'll be okay, until you try to spin that little guy up slightly. It's the one advantage of dumping a lot of fuel in, you'll be reducing EGT a bit and helping with the heat portion of the above 3 areas.   And these days, stock turbos are that old that there's the possibility of just outright failures due to material age. I'm not shocked that even when used in factory spec that a stock turbo fails when 30 years old. It's a worn out "precision" "balanced" performance item, that's likely no longer precise, or well balanced
    • this... hence I said what I said previously, SMSP nights you see mainly Hondas, Evos, A90s, F80x and the odd VW. The 5 or 6 times I went, I only saw 1x R32 GT-R, and other than that I was the only one in a shit box Skyline.
    • Yeah, but it's not "boost" that they can take more of. Well, I guess it actually is. They are the same turbine, driving different compressors. I think the failure is more of a turbine temperature and (probably mostly) speed thing. I think the RB25s end up needing the turbine to reach higher speeds in order to drive the compressor to achieve the same boost level. So they will fail at lower boost on a 25 because they've actually reached the same failure speed that they do on a 20 at a higher boost pressure. If that makes sense?
×
×
  • Create New...