Brake Upbrade

[chook]

here are some pics of my install that may help. not much difference between 32 and 34 hoses, ends are same, both will fit S2.

[DaveB]

I also fitted r34 gtt rears to my S1 (may she rest in peace or should i say pieces)

I did a how to, will dig it up.

great stuff, thanks. sorry to hear about the demise... sounds messy

here are some pics of my install that may help. not much difference between 32 and 34 hoses, ends are same, both will fit S2.

that's awesome, thanks chook! I will check them out...

[Mr GTS4]

so whats the go with the stainless lines.. i have a S2 and going to do the conversion but want to get new lines. after you take the screw thing out of the calipers to suit the stagea lines ( or will you have to do this if your getting new lines??) what lines will fit after you have done this? R32 gtr/R33 gtr/R33 GTS-T?

[JAV360]

It'll depend on what kind of fitting the new lines have.

If it has a banjo fitting (bolt going through the line with holes in it) once the flare fitting inside the caliper is removed the bolt will go straight in.

Or if its a fixed steel line (as used on the skylines) you won't have to remove the flare fitting in the caliper as thats what helps seal the line.

[_Ryan_]

If people can get me a set of series 2 dead pads, if we all put in a very small amount of money(say, 10bux each), we can have racebrakes stocking the pads(as they will have the design made up), or i will organise a group buy!

with good pads and rotors stagea brakes arent too shabby.

Racebrakes RB74 are fkn great, or Endless SSS if you can find em at a reasonable price.

[Mr GTS4]

It'll depend on what kind of fitting the new lines have.

If it has a banjo fitting (bolt going through the line with holes in it) once the flare fitting inside the caliper is removed the bolt will go straight in.

Or if its a fixed steel line (as used on the skylines) you won't have to remove the flare fitting in the caliper as thats what helps seal the line.

so the other end of the lines that connect to the main lines on the car are the same on all skylines/stagea's??

so a R32 GTR set would do the job if i didn't remove the flare fitting?

i just don't want to buy a set and then realise that its the wrong one.

Thanks

Curt

[DaveB]

so the other end of the lines that connect to the main lines on the car are the same on all skylines/stagea's??

so a R32 GTR set would do the job if i didn't remove the flare fitting?

...

I also would like to know this

[DaveB]

If people can get me a set of series 2 dead pads, if we all put in a very small amount of money(say, 10bux each), we can have racebrakes stocking the pads(as they will have the design made up), or i will organise a group buy!

with good pads and rotors stagea brakes arent too shabby.

Racebrakes RB74 are fkn great, or Endless SSS if you can find em at a reasonable price.

That would probably be possible; I know I for one have a set of old S2 pads with about 30% left on them (which I was keeping as emergency pads, but could let go to something like this).

BUT, and this is a big BUT, the one big issue which would prevent me investing any more money in the stock brakes (more than the ~$200 I had to spend on new genuine pads) is that my rotors need replacing, bad, and I just can't get any slotted rotors to suit standard series 2. Or ANY rotors to suit S2 for that matter, except genuine Nissan, which is a waste for me as for less money I can get some R34 brakes and get them rebuilt. Add to that the difficulty of getting braided lines (sure Mal-something have them but they are apparrently short and need adjusting to make them fit S2).

[KiwiRS4T]

That would probably be possible; I know I for one have a set of old S2 pads with about 30% left on them (which I was keeping as emergency pads, but could let go to something like this).

BUT, and this is a big BUT, the one big issue which would prevent me investing any more money in the stock brakes (more than the ~$200 I had to spend on new genuine pads) is that my rotors need replacing, bad, and I just can't get any slotted rotors to suit standard series 2. Or ANY rotors to suit S2 for that matter, except genuine Nissan, which is a waste for me as for less money I can get some R34 brakes and get them rebuilt. Add to that the difficulty of getting braided lines (sure Mal-something have them but they are apparrently short and need adjusting to make them fit S2).

Maltech are in Geelong (Drysdale) google the name for contact details. They will make brake lines to suit any application - even if you send them some and say what kind of fittings, longer or shorter and a variety of colours you want. In the Geelong area they will come round in a van and amke them on the spot.

[DaveB]

Cool Now if I could just find some slotted rotors, I might be swayed to keep my stock brakes... pads are cheap now by the sounds. But warped rotors are no fun and new ones from Nissan are not cheap

[KiwiRS4T]

Cool Now if I could just find some slotted rotors, I might be swayed to keep my stock brakes... pads are cheap now by the sounds. But warped rotors are no fun and new ones from Nissan are not cheap

Dave have you tried asking DBA if they have rotors for your car? Make exact measurements of your rotors - diameter, thickness, offset any other dimension they might want and your make, model, year , and vin number and contact them by email or phone and ask if they have anything in the 4000 series or 5000 series for your car (slotted, not cross drilled). If they do then maybe you can get prices from them or get the address of your nearest stockist: http://www.dba.com.au/contact.php

[juleswithstagea]

I have a 97 Stagea RS Four and just got a front set of disc and calipers from a R33 gtst with the hoses etc from what I have read here they are a direct fit including the pipes please correct me if I am wrong as the brakes I have are bl--dy useless

[DaveB]

Dave have you tried asking DBA if they have rotors for your car? Make exact measurements of your rotors - diameter, thickness, offset any other dimension they might want and your make, model, year , and vin number and contact them by email or phone and ask if they have anything in the 4000 series or 5000 series for your car (slotted, not cross drilled). If they do then maybe you can get prices from them or get the address of your nearest stockist: http://www.dba.com.au/contact.php

I was just assuming that somebody else had already done this? If I get bored today I might give it a go...

[QWK32]

i sized up the fronts on my S2 RS4V when i had them off last. i took all the measurements with a steel rule.

Diameter = 289mm

Rotor Thickness = 28mm

Offset = 41mm

[sheepus]

So just to clarify,

S1 Stagea

Front brakes, can use a r33 caliper and rotor, standard brake line will fit with caliper insert removed, bolts will need to be changed, and locaters made.

Rears will use r33 setup also, direct swap over, no mods, bolts fit, brake lines fit.

Thanks in advance, its a struggle to make sense of all the posts on brakes

[KiwiRS4T]

So just to clarify,

S1 Stagea

Front brakes, can use a r33 caliper and rotor, standard brake line will fit with caliper insert removed, bolts will need to be changed, and locaters made.

Rears will use r33 setup also, direct swap over, no mods, bolts fit, brake lines fit.

Thanks in advance, its a struggle to make sense of all the posts on brakes

Don't want to muddy the waters but just how much of an upgrade is R33 Brakes? How many pots what diameter and thickness of rotors?

I have fitted R34Gtt brakes to my S1 with no problems - just pulling out the inserts like you said plus trimming the backing plate a little on the rears - bolts and lines all fitted fine.

ps just reading back through the thread ... I guess you meant 33GTST.

[southern_tango]

as taking a look about break upgrade w/ R32 GTR/R33GTST brakes and found this pic from QWK32 now if anybody has a r33 bolt at hand and has a minute to measure it ,please ,I could like to know:

1: lenght of stem

2: lenght of threaded portion

3:lenght of unthreaded one

[QWK32]

as taking a look about break upgrade w/ R32 GTR/R33GTST brakes and found this pic from QWK32 now if anybody has a r33 bolt at hand and has a minute to measure it ,please ,I could like to know:

1: lenght of stem

2: lenght of threaded portion

3:lenght of unthreaded one

1: 35mm

2: 25mm

3: 10mm

and the spring washer is 4mm.

[ant0ny]

Some people seem to be concerned about Brake Pad Size... this does not effect braking capacity of the system, it will help with heat load at the critical end of braking and may help with pad wear. The clamping pressure of the braking system is what does the work and gives you that very confident stab on the bakes. To achieve clamping pressure as many pistons as you can get is the most effective way to achieve this.

If you are concerned with smaller pads... say you tow with inadequate trailer braking. Fit cooling ducts to all brakes and this will help with braking down long hills etc at high speeds.

[Daleo]

Some people seem to be concerned about Brake Pad Size... this does not effect braking capacity of the system, it will help with heat load at the critical end of braking and may help with pad wear. The clamping pressure of the braking system is what does the work and gives you that very confident stab on the bakes. To achieve clamping pressure as many pistons as you can get is the most effective way to achieve this.

If you are concerned with smaller pads... say you tow with inadequate trailer braking. Fit cooling ducts to all brakes and this will help with braking down long hills etc at high speeds.

Pad size helps, but what really gives power to a braking system is the amount of leverage you can apply. This is why increasing disc diameter is effective. The same size pad in the same caliper, with the same amount of effort applied will work more effectively on a 300mm disc, than a 260mm disc because the force (caliper squeezing the disc) is applied further from the fulcrum (centre of the hub). Add to this the benefit of extra surface area to shed heat and the situation just gets better.

The biggest advantage you gain with braided lines is all the effort you apply to the pedal makes it to the caliper instead of getting wasted when the rubber line expands. This gives a firm, immediate response to your input.