Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, can someone tell me the difference between an r33 gtst auto and manual performance wise. is the manual hugely faster or not really? do they both feel about the same in terms of acceleration?

Cheers.

oh, and how would an auto r33 gtst compare to say an r32 gtst manual and a manual vs commodore.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180696-r33-gts-t-auto-vs-manual/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 118
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

manual will always be better and more fun

youll regret it if you buy an auto

the manual is much more exciting and gives you more of a driving experience

the auto will be slower and runs less boost factory as well

the manual will hold more value and probably easier to fix as its more common

for my 2cents , go for the manual. it will allow you to take advantage of the turbo's power and have another to reduce your speed quickly with a manual. If you add any kind of mods you will wish you had a manual and like every person, the only time it is a problem is when you are shut in traffic.

Manul=184 @ the flywheel

With these mods: Apexi powerFC, boost control, FMIC, Walbro FP, 3" exhaust, split dump pipe= +195RWKW

Yeah but how do they compare performance wise? The car im looking at is about $5000 cheaper than the same year and condition but manual, and theres no way i can afford that atm (or for the next four or so years). basically what im asking is, is a auto gtst skyline a lot slower than a manual or not? i drive an AU Falcon auto atm, how would it compare to that? I dont mind driving an auto, just wanna know about performance.

Oh, also, will i still get that nice pshhht between shifts with the auto?

Cheers.

automatic sports cars should only be for the disabled. are you disabled?

edit: ok so actual helpful infomation. power wise better to get manual. economic wise, better to get manual. maintenance cost wise, better to get manual. drive ability wise, better to get manual. for blow off valve "pshhhts" between shifts, only able to on manual.

Edited by InterCooL

i love my auto. ill find it hard to do a manual conversion unless i get taken away by the idea of making it a track car. the difference in performance isnt as bad as these bias mo-fo's make it out to be. it is a bit slower stock vs. stock. but once the mods start coming and you get some direct shifts (valve body upgrade, or emanage ultimate A/T control) you will be pulling some impressive times.

some people ask me, why auto????

i reply.. why manual??

i also have an m3 and it is manual - and i enjoy driving my skyline more than it.

i made 13.9 1/4 mile with a fmic, exhaust and pod...... and some shitty starts with some shitty el-cheapo 215's. guys with manuals with the same mods are making 14.1-14.2's.

ive also taken it through a few hard runs through the twisties, and the box (with an aftermarket cooler) takes it like a dirty s**t.

dangerman4 has run his auto with 300+kw and was fine. anyone who CANT have as much fun in an auto than a manual cant drive for shit.

edit:

maintenance wise: a complete box costs $300 max and will last you YEARS. mines lasted the car around 14yrs and isnt showing any signs of weakness.

oil: once every 40,000km's $40 a pop.

trans oil cooler kit: $80.

fuel consumption: im making 400-430km on a tank.

want bov noise: you need to back off the accelerator to make the car shift when you want it to. you can also make it shift just that tiny bit harder if you take your foot off completely then hit it again. TSHHHHH!!

performance: want full boost through gear changes? get a shift kit and go for your life.

Edited by SECURITY

love my auto i still say a lot of the manual guys have never driven a auto skyline and have no idea what there on about a auto skyline is not like driving a auto commyfalcondore they actually go .

ive driven a manual skyline my son has one but i prefer the auto anyday there no dearer to fix than a manual u can pick the boxes up for bugga all cause there not as populer. a good manual box will cost a grand plus also clutches are a pain to change .just get a mv auto shift kit and ya wont look back

The absolute, number one best aspect of driving a manual car is the driver involvement. Simple as that.

You wont find huge performance differences in stock manual vs auto R33s, it would likely be noticable but not major.

Basically, it is inconsequential.

If you *really* enjoy driving, get the manual. If youre driving the car in heavy traffic and dont think you could put up with a manual, consider the auto.

When i got my car it was auto and i loved it. I regret changing it to manual to be honest.

I have 2 x R33 RB25DET gearbox's that i am willing to swap for with a whole conversion kit for a high performance build auto setup.

I want to go back to auto cos i want to run my low 10sec pass!!

Auto's are great fun to drive when it comes to turbo's but you can have a bit more fun in a manual but it will cost you tyres and trouble from the cops in the long run.

So yeah i really think its up to you and what you can afford. if you can only afford a auto then go for it the cars are still great fun to drive.

id reccomend going the auto, i own both a worked r32 gtr and a vl turbo street/race car and i tell you theres no better feeling than dropping the transbrake at 20psi, short shifting straight to top gear and stepping the whole street. i do admit the gtr is more fun through the twisty stuff but nothing beats top gear skids ;)

Man I love my auto, it's fun to drive and great for windy roads and stuff.... everyone asks if i'm going to convert to manual and no one has showed me any major advantages. Sweet you can clutch kick a manual but when your able to stomp your foot in drive and spin wheels from 40km/h that is alot more impressive than flat changin and chirpin the wheels...

but yeah everyone one is going to have there favourites the best reply when people ask you why auto...... cause i need the other hand free to keep your missus entertained

I think these guys have posted some really valid information but if u want the large BOV sound go the manual as the auto just shifts into next gear and the turbo beings to spool where with the manual, when u go to change gear, it slower, the throttle body shuts and the larger amount of compressed air is let out through the BOV hence, pffft! lol, i own a manual GTS skyline and am just about to have a conversion done (read my thread in N/A section) but i agree, a skyline is a skyline, go with what u can afford and if you don't mind driving an automatic then don't worry about what others think, you can trick up both manuals ans auto to run good times and perform well.

Hope this helps, Hame {sorry for long post}

think these guys have posted some really valid information but if u want the large BOV sound go the manual as the auto just shifts into next gear and the turbo beings to spool where with the manual, when u go to change gear, it slower, the throttle body shuts and the larger amount of compressed air is let out through the BOV hence, pffft!

or in the manual you can just keep your foot on the gas when you change gears and there will be no spool time either. and a stock auto will change gears slower than most people can change gears in a manual. on average at the drags (until you get to the much quicker cars) a manual will run much faster than an auto. in standard form it would be nearly half a second.

Sweet you can clutch kick a manual but when your able to stomp your foot in drive and spin wheels from 40km/h that is alot more impressive than flat changin and chirpin the wheels...
if you can get an auto to spin the wheels by stomping it in drive you could do the same in a manual. but in the manual you don't have to wait for it to make it's mind up about what gear it wants to drop back into. you just put it in a gear and stomp it.

auto gearboxes are heavier than manual ones as well.

if you want a 10 second car go an auto. if it is going to remain pretty much stock then go manual if you want more fun or auto if it is going to be a daily driver.

Look, i wouldn't give up my manual line for the world... BUT if i didn't have a skyline and my other option was some shit 6 commonwhore. I'd take the auto. If its a 5k difference and the car is in good nick then go for it, you can always grow some balls later if its really buggin you being ghey ;)

Depends where you live and what you do with the car. If you do a lot of city driving than maybe an auto is more ideal. A lot of stopping and starting and pushing the clutch in and changing gears might get a bit annoying.

Ever been on the on-ramps in the underground/multilevel carparks? Stuck on the on-ramp waiting for cars to move and its bumper to bumper?

Imagine trying to ride your heavy duty clutch just to move 2 feet.

If it was auto? Much easier.

There's nothing wrong with auto's. If eating while driving is your thing then get an auto.

I'd prefer a manual as your actually "driving" the car & you have more control to what it does. But if it came down to it, I don't think having an auto would be bad at all. But I'd still choose manual over auto any day ;)

Edited by KeyMaker

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok now I’m extremely jealous 
    • Exactly, when searching online they were a lot more common on S13s, but have seen quite a few of Skyline GTSs with them as well.
    • Thanks for the feedback!   “Hard to say what the extra connector is, it looks a bit like a coax type connector, so possibly a separate radio/GPS antenna, or even another camera input?  The V37 series (including the Q50), did go through a model refresh in 2020, since Australia didn't get any Q50s newer than 2019, we didn't get any of the refreshed models, so there could also be other unexpected problems to overcome to swap an older Q50 head unit into a new model V37.” I wonder if the extra plug out has anything to do with the factory optioned drive recorder, or traffic updates. It looks like these systems link to the main screens too, and probably rv37 specific over Q50 perhaps?   “Regarding the TV standards, I assume you are referring to the AV inputs?  I haven't ever tried to use them, Japan used a slightly modified version of the US NTSC system, and Australia uses PAL for composite video, that said, I wouldn't be surprised if a video input could work with either system.  That is mostly irrelevant here though, unless you plan to use those inputs for something?” The car has a Japanese TV in it already. For compliance it will be disconnected I think.  From what I read it only works when the handbrake is engaged anyways, but an aftermarket module can be installed for use with handbrake not applied. I was more so curious if there was a way to convert the NTSC to PAL for Australian operation. (I don’t need it but it’s cool to have the gadgets working) I have a BNR34 MFD I converted years ago to take PAL signal in my skyline and I linked it to the DVD Head unit for dual screen use. There was some write up on SAU back in the day how to do it and I can’t remember what was involved. So sorta curious what can be done here etc.  “So, Pac posted in the other thread about a box that plugs into the USB C and gives you full Android OS to run whatever modern/connected nav you want on the top screen, and it still automatically switches back to function” The Rv37 model comes with Apple play and Android, I think the Q50 doesn’t? so for me I can simply plug my phone into the usb or maybe blue tooth and that will become it’s own Nav that way independent  I’m happy for this option but again figured if there was a factory module can it be used or updated.  It had SD card slot for map updates so I could update it if I can get AUS specific maps on it,   That alibaba screen does look neat.  I’m not ready to bust a move just yet on it or something like to as my car can take my Apple iPhone already.  Also it doesn’t say it suits current model Rv37 skylines but the Q50, so perhaps it may not be skyline compatible.  I’d love to see one installed to know first hand or even see one in Q50 and hear some feedback, is it cheap Chinese junk!? Is it good? Does it suit RHD? Is it internet compatible like a normal tablet, and will it support all rv37 specific options like map zoom and steering wheel control and Bose system and so on.. I’m certainly intrigued and interested       I’ve done some digging around.; my local Nissan has a tech guy ex Infiniti and he wants to try trick the nav unit into think it’s q50 so it takes Aussie software or something,  When it arrives I will take it there and see what he can do.    Also seems we no longer have Nissan connect app available in Australia now. I’ve read my dealer books etc at home and it seems in Japan via that app you can purchase internet plans for the rv37 skyline to work through the screens inside. it seems that you can get traffic updates, it links to ETC, and I believe the in car specific recorders. This video then is all stored and visible via app. the Nissan connect app can also be used for remotely starting and controlling heaters etc from afar. Seems tv was also part of this. I’ll have a further look and play when it arrives. (I wonder if I can somehow get the Japan version of Nissan connect on my phone and use the remote start features etc) App Store won’t allow it as region specific- need configure that one   rv37 has multiple security options and packages.  Premium package comes with tilt sensor, remote and battery in siren, and can be bundled with auto mirror retract when locked, door jam illumination when opened on drivers side only, and also remote start.  Otherwise all modules can be purchased separately and still applied but easier to do as a whole and bundle for shared hardware and looms. (This is where Nissan Japan have advised the security part needs a dealer device to set up). Australia dealers have advised me Australian delivered models weren’t offered factory optioned  security systems so they don’t really know what’s entailed and what device.  Nissan Japan state that the other components like mirror retract and door lighting and remote start should still work on that package even if security doesn’t (however security still may).  I’m tempted to purchase and take the risk on this. There’s a possibility it can be made to work by piggybacking off signals etc instead too.     im curious if any Q50 owners have a factory optioned security system with these options or just a factory optioned system. If so I’d imagine the same device or process for installation should be needed meaning someone with Q50 dealer Experience may know. (Waiting on my local tech to get back to quiz further here prior to ordering)   and like q50 some of the v37 models have the scuff panel illumination and the footwel illumination too.  I see 400R wasn’t compatible according to Nissan diagrams.  I’m guessing it didn’t have a plug out for this. Would be a nice addition… I wonder if anyone has this in a rv37 or q50 and has a wiring diagram or booklet for installation to know where to piggyback the system too.  Seems to activated by door opening, so if imagine it would grab a door ajar signal and 12v and earth and probably ignition, but curious to know more as it’s pretty much the only factory option the 400R doesn’t take.     Thanks for your inputs. I’m finding so little information rv37 skyline specific as apposed to Q50 so trying to pioneer forwards and see can and can’t work and what options are there to help.  I’ll keep updated when the car is landed and ready to play with on these things in the hope it helps others and my journey can assist.  Appreciate any input and help.  Cheers 
    • Nah, if I need to fit people in a car I'll just use the Mrs car, the MX5 is perfect for what I need as a fun little sports car for fun on the street As for getting in and out of the MX5, I have no issues as I am a short arse who does lots of mobility training 🥷 If anything, I have been looking at Daihatsu Hi-Jets for a work hack, I helped one of my mates move some stuff with one recently that he picked up from Just Jap, it was a little ripper and plenty big enough for what we needed, it would also be super handy for me as I do alot of gardening, and plan on having some veggie patches and native gardens in the place I buy next year when I retire I did alot landscape gardening and growing veggies prior to my current job, and loved it, and that is a hobby that can keep me sane in my retirement, and as such, the little 300kg load capacity would be more than enough for what I need it to move around I have been looking at utes for just this purpose for a while now, and a near new 2024 Hi-Jet can be had for under $30k And I would rather look at a quirky little Hi-Jet than pretty much any other little ute, well, apart from a Brumby, I love the little Brumby, and weirdly have never owned one yet I was going to buy a heap of raffle tickets to try and win the Brumby that MCM built for Subaru Australia, but sadly I totally missed the raffle, I even filled in some form to be told when the raffle started so I could buy tickets, but to my dismay I was never contacted and found out I missed it when I was randomly googling Brumbys last year... #conspiracy  Maybe I should just buy a Brumby for a little "work hack".....LOL I use to be indecisive, but now I'm not sure
    • Well.... it's not just "de-oxygenating". If you do that you just have, most likely, ethane. So you still need to do a synthesis step to combine a number of ethanes/ethanols to make circa-8-chain hydrocarbons. And of course you don't want straight chain HCs, because n-octane actually has a negative octane rating (ie, it's worse even than the n-heptane which sets the zero on the octane scale!), so you have to do some tricky catalytic chemistry to synthesise branched HCs. That's all doable - but it doesn't come for free. And.... it starts with ethanol, which is an agricultural product, and there will almost certainly never be enough of that as a base stock to replace the liquid fuels that are in use. You really wouldn't want to be planning to be using any more ethanol for fuels than is currently already used (in E10, E85s, etc). And ideally you'd be looking to reduce such usage, as it is largely wasteful, particularly in the stupid-ole'US-of-A where the corn lobby has organised it so that it's actually primary production corn that is used to make a lot of the ethanol, not by-products and waste, like it is (mostly) elsewhere. So, what I said about needing free-ish energy probably still applies. True synth fuels would be made from H2 and CO2, in a near reversal of the combustion process. In fact, given that the H2 would be split from water first, it actually is a complete reversal of the combustion process. But...energy intensive. The human race burns something like 1 cubic MILE of crude oil, after it has been made into various fuels. Every year. That's a simply stupendous amount of energy. Just assume that the density is 900 kg/m3, and that the calorific value is 45 MJ/kg, then that is 165.9 x10^12 MJ of energy. Or more than 10^19 Joules. You get a maximum of 1 kJ/s per square meter solar radiation falling on the planet's surface, and so if you halve that for daylight, and halve it again for average weather (highly optimistic) and then take ~25% for the very best efficiency of solar panels, then you need about 85.7 billion square metres of solar panels to generate enough electricity to replace that liquid fuel energy consumption. Each panel is about 1m2. That's a rather large number of panels. We also burn about a cubic mile of coal. We also use hydroelectric power. We also use nuclear. We also use a number of other sources, both "renewable" and not. You can kind of ignore the renewable ones (except for hydro, because it will all end up getting subsumed into pumped hydro for storing other renewables, and so it won't be the standalone renewable that it originally was), so we end up needing a multiple of the ground area number that I just arrived at.
×
×
  • Create New...