Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just wanted to ask a question about when I start up my recently turboed R33 GTS4 (rb25deT)

I got it dynoed now and got the timing fixed up, it is running rich, but a powerfc or something alike will fix that,

Problem is when I start to drive the car in the morn and it is cold, I'm finding that at about 5 grand it is sounds like it is missfiring, it wont go past bout 4,800 - 5,000.

When the car is warm she is better, still finding when you want to get it in the high revs that she hesitates for a lil, which it didnt when it was an N/A.

I dont know what it is,because as I said the timing was fixed up and new sparks, which were gapped correctly.

Is this a turbo thing or do I need to fix up sumthing?

Thanks, Adam

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180744-problems-on-start-up/
Share on other sites

it is probably your coils aren't able to keep up with the job. try and borrow someones coils and see if that gets rid of it. if it does then you need new coils.

also, find out what sort of plugs were used, with what gap and what heat range.

LOL.... I was just waiting for somone to say it is stupid to push her first thing... but when u live on a main road and trying to get out in morning traffic.....

but that still doesnt explain when the car is warm and at 5 grand.. why it is still a lil hesitant

so coils then? hmm... as this is my first car everything is new to me.. could anyone point me in the right direction? places to buy? etc... anything is handy!

Cheers,

Adam

well split fires are a dirct replacement coil thats gives youa few more horspower, negun.com have splitfires for 500 buck delivered to ur door or try a local jap wreckers they range from 110 to 150 depends on wrecker and what series the car is one is a little cheaper than series 2

Thanks for the help guys, I would have thought the current coils would handle alright... unless do turbo skylines have more powerful ones?

Im only getting roughly 150-160 rwkw + 10-20% at front so max would be bout 170 - 180 awkw all up.. you wouldn't need $500 coils yet would you?

thought my fuel pump would go before anything

Hey guys.. update...

The miss firing is also when the car is at operating tempurature.

I did find it wierd when the car got dynoed roughly 3 days ago and there was no missfiring, but I figured out why when doing a few tests...

NOTE: The missfiring or whatever problem is happening starts at bout 5 grand

1. It happens when I drop a gear and put my foot down..

2. It happens when I put my foot down in any gear..

3. It DOESNT happen when I slowly rev the car up...

Which is why when the car was on the dyno and it was powered up slowly why it didn't do anything.

Does this change anything? am I still meant to be looking for coils? any good reccommendations on brands?

Thanks, Adam

After 2 hours on a dyno my car was fine on stock coils.

on the road it misfired

to fix it the plugs were gapped down to 0.6 then more dyno....

but i'm still getting new coils when the new turbo goes in.

So basiclly new coils are the only way out of this? cuz at first the turbo conversion was a bargin.. now everytime I fix up one thing the next happens!

Im happy with the power gains.. but can 33 gtst's use other engine coilpacks?like ... 34 gtr's ? or 32 gtr's...etc...

GRR... Annoying little things these are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...