Jump to content
SAU Community

Correct boost or not?

YBSLO4

By YBSLO4,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
Posted

A while back now i fitted an Autometer boost gauge, one of the better models i could get. But not long after i fitted a boost controller to level out boost and to increase boost response, but when trialling the boost controller to see if it was all hooked up i turned the boost up, but notice that once ya turn the boost controller up the maximum the boost gauge would go to on both the stock gauge and the new gauge was about 8-9psi, if you turned the boost controller up further the gauges didn't read any higher... but ya can hear from the wastegate noise that it was making more boost but it was jsut bleeding with the wastegate and not actually getting more boost to the engine. I have heard from a few guys having a similar thing happen to them in that they can't seem to get more boost than that around 8-9 at the manifold... is there something that needs to be removed for you to be able to turn the boost up to around the 13-15psi mard... maybe do ya have to bypass a factory uni tthat stops you from boosting? Or is it because its only bleed valve and i need an electronic one to boost more? I need to work it out as once the new turbo goes in and stuff i am looking to turn the boost up and it aint looking like it will happen till i work it out. Thnx peoples. J.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18087-correct-boost-or-not/
Share on other sites
YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I installed it all, but my mate has the same boost controller its just the gated single stage controller with in cabin switch, and i copied his exactly, i knew how to do it anyway but i jsut copied his and it his works fine however mine wont...? Not sure what the deal is, and he even watched his being fitted so when it came to mine we did it exactly the same so i dunno what it is. Like i fitted some for mates aswell and mine seems to be the only one that is odd? COuld it be a faulty unit?

  • 2 weeks later...
YBSLO4 Proficient

YBSLO4

Posted
  • Author
Posted

"that y i use a DEFI for boost guage and HKS for controler...rather then Autometer and turbosmart....."

I take that your bagging my sh1t... sorry for not wasting my money on brands... Makes it easier when ya just buy a new turbo with a controlled boost wastegate actuator... don't need a boost controller. :)

skylineakt Rising Star

skylineakt

Posted
Posted

Hey YBSLO4

I saw in your mods that your turbo is from ATP. I read last time that ATP have there own combination of housings and trims. They seem really know what they are doing and they offer different stages of turbo, they also do high flow to the standard turbo yeah??

Just want to ask about your T3/4, how is it? and what kws rating is are you getting? Was it expensive??

I have seen their white R33 around but haven't seen it being pushed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yes, but it's not as easy as pulling a fuse on anything other than an R32. There's a routine you have to do, involving disconnecting a loom plug and bleeding down the preload.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible
    • Lithium
      Ceramic turbine damage to engine - what did yours do?

      By Lithium · Posted

      Whoa, that's a name I've not see for a long time! Sorry to hear about the engine / turbo damage.  Fwiw with any engine problems it often really a case of just seeing what happens when it's apart, ymmv - I wouldn't rule out the possibility that the damage isn't even from the turbo failure, or possibly from a combination.  The airflow between cylinders isn't dead even, injectors can go off over time as well, with the turbos overboosting if you didn't have upgraded fuel system there could have possibly been a bit of leaning out - stock triggering is often a bit unreliable by this age too.  Basically its an old engine and a few things could have been going on, and you won't know how much work is needed until the engine is apart.  
    • MBS206
      My BMW 335i

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm just shocked there's a euro driver on our roads who is thinking of other road users and not attempting to blind everyone. I wonder if Prank uses his indicator too...
    • Duncan
      So whats the deal with the porous block VR30DDTT

      By Duncan · Posted

      Its hard to tell really. The Q50 owner's forum talks about it a lot and has quite a few people directly affected, but no idea what % of cars sold actually had the block replaced. Also, there seem to be 2 distinct issues which both get diagnosed by Infiniti as requiring a block replacement (no wonder they are going broke) 1. "Porous block" where coolant mixes with oil through thin or poorly cast parts of the block 2. Head coolant gallery plugs not sealing. If I was noticing engine coolant loss I'd start with cooling system pressure test (as always) and then I'd pull the cam covers and reseal the coolant gallery plugs on both side before worrying about a potentially porous block.  If neither of those did the trick it would be put in a second hand engine out of japan; I haven't checked pricing but I'm sure there are plenty around by now as they've been in production 10+ years
×
×
  • Create New...