Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Ive done some research but haven't had too much luck... Here is my dilemma:

My S1 Stagea has severe problems from 4000rpm and above. It pings really badly and the plugs seem to be breaking down too. You can hear it ping pretty badly and the power surges up an down from there to redline.

Mods to the car are very basic - full exhuast inc dump and a front mount cooler and pod filter. The boost is mechanically controlled and peaks at 0.8bar.

Ive had it with my mechanic now several times and he cant work out whats causing it, but reckons that a set of splitfire coils will fix the problem...

Ive read of other people having breakdown issues that splitfires fixed, but if anyone has any idea or advice It would be much appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Ben.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180922-spark-breakdown-help-please/
Share on other sites

yeah sounds like coils to me.. this is a very common problem with the stageas ( and I beleive the RB25DET motors in general )

you COULD try pulling the plugs out and gap them a bit smaller.. but I am fairly confident the splitfire coilpacks will help you out.

so if my calculations are correct.. 0.8 Bar = 11.6030 PSI ( or there abouts )

does lowering the boost help at all ? I have heard of excess boost causing incorrectly gapped plugs to " blow the spark out " ie does not spark correctly.

I would go the coilpack replacement and go from there.

PS make sure you have an air compressor or shop vac handy to clean out the sparkplug wells BEFORE you take the plugs out.. as when I did it the cover had bits that were brittle due to heat.

hope that helps! OH AND! what octane fuel you running? if you put BP ULTIMATE 98 in that might give you a bit of releif from the pinging

dont go splitfires

two things:

a) get pregapped NGK vgruve .8mm copper plugs ($3 each), install those and then use Industrial strength #401? silicone sealant all around the coil packs that you currently have. Costs under $20 for the silicone and a application gun. OK, so thats $40 spent and most likely problem solv'd.

b) get SAFC, install and tune.

these two solutions would cost no more then the Splitfires themselves, and Id say this would fix the problem, give you aan increase in power via the tune, and better fuel economy.

smart think'n #99

Brycey has the same problem

bryce hasn't upped boost.

theres your prob yes spit fires willl fix it but expenisve.

buy new plugs and gap them down to .7 to .6 of a millimeter.

problem solved

Thanks for the input guys.

Im pretty confident that the plugs have been gapped correctly by the mechanic, even used platinum plugs this time.

Lowering the boost helps a little, im running at 0.5bar at the moment and it still has problems, but doesnt ping as bad.

Fuel is always a 98ron.

I have an SAFC II sitting at home. I havent installed it yet as i want to solve this pinging problem first, i dont think that its A/F...

I can understand that the missing could be caused by the coils (am having the same prob atm but haven't been botherd to fix it yet as its not too bad). But don't see this being the cause of the pinging. And yeah high boost has been known to cause issues with spark but I wouldn't think at only 11psi (unless the spark was really weak I guess but even then....?) Have you got your mechanic to check your base timing at the crank angle sensor? Checked fuel pressure (dodgy pump maybe)?

My bet would be to try the silicon fix on your coils with a set of properly gapped plugs first and see if that fixes your spark break down and if not try a new set of coils (either another second hand set if you by chance have access to some or splitfires). And then get the safc installed and tuned on the dyno and see how you go from there.

The surging in power could be R&R (but this should stop the pinging as its retarding timing) or could be fuel supply issues too which would explain the surge in power and the pinging I guess.

Just suggestions anyway, good luck!

My bet would be to try the silicon fix on your coils with a set of properly gapped plugs first and see if that fixes your spark break down and if not try a new set of coils (either another second hand set if you by chance have access to some or splitfires). And then get the safc installed and tuned on the dyno and see how you go from there.

bingo

:wave:

I had the same problem at one stage, gapped the plugs down and bingo - gone. But beware, mine had not enough gap after that causing me to lose power, took my mechanic several visits to figure out as well. But yeah, if that doenst work, then go your SAFC aswel

my 2 cents says its r&r issues as i have had splitfires installed and new plugs gapped at .8mm .all went well untill i fited my dump and high flow cat and now under hard revs i hit retard. even more noticeable when cold. i have not touched boost levels except for the boost mod where u earth the solenoid to be open. also have no boost gauge so not sure what its runing at wit my mods. just ewaiting on someone to trial emanage ultimate and if it works im next

I had the same problem with mine when i got it. At work i was playing with gas falcon denso iridium plugs in the xr6 turbo to stop a similar problem on a smaller scale, so i gapped a set to 0.8mm and banged them in the stagea. The stuttering totally dissappered.

It was a cheap experiement for me, but irridium plugs are expensive so maybe try using a standard plug 1 heat range colder gapped to 0.7 -0.8 mm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reasonably hard, although I haven't run it with the new Endless setup yet. The old brakes were F50's on 335mm rotors and the car did a 1:40.6 at Phillip Island which is a reasonable time, I'm seeing high 600s on the temperature paint. A guy I know ran the Endless fluid at WTAC without issues and he was doing 1:33's I think (Evo) with a 355/332 setup. I don't get out to the track as much as I'd like but we put the car on the hoist and spanner check every bolt and re-paint mark everything, bleed the brakes, change the fuel, check the coolant system and re-bleed blah blah blah before every event. Motorsport is expensive, RB's are expensive so a couple of hours before an event is time well spent. It's also a net time saving because if you can keep your RB from self destructing it saves you time in the long term!
    • Welcome Alice......hope you have a bit more luck from here on! What was done in the build?  
    • Hello! I'm new here, I have an R33 GTST that is currently being finished up! Last year was pretty rough, blew two stock turbos so I decided to build the car. Has been down since November, but I get it back next weekend!
    • Hello, I believe my car was imported to America in the 2000s by Kaizo Industries. Would anyone be able to help me find more info on them? I've only found all the basic stuff like that paul walker bnr34, them being shutdown by feds, just stuff like that. Any help would be much appreciated, thanks!
    • I am using Motec M150.  I am not working on the car myself actually.  My workshop is giving all these info, they are quite reputable in the industry and are very familiar with Motec and RBs and have done a few big setups with VCam and single turbo on RBs.  In fact, they built and tuned my engine from day one.  But they are stumped with my engine at the moment and cannot work out how come the compression is so low with the VCam. They told me that they have now swapped in some Kelford cams (without the VCam) and can achieve around 130psi compression and the low end torque is better, but now the engine is doughy as.  It boosts and peaks at more than 1000rpm slower, with twin HKS GTIII RS, it doesn't get full boost until over 5000rpm. I have always thought the VCam was a bit disappointing at the low rpm. To a point I had to ride the clutch a fair bit to get up a small hill from stand still.  That was when I had a clutch.  Now changing to a 8HP, I don't have that luxury and this problem has become a major issue. I am beginning to think the VCam never work since the day it was installed.  Maybe it was just sitting at the most advanced point, that is why it went good at top end but very ordinary at the bottom.  Therefore, with the help of the Holinger 6 speed and paddle shift, as long as it was moving, it drove pretty good.
×
×
  • Create New...