Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ATMO when you don't need it, is for wankers.

You want to keep creating a bad image for all other skyline owners, go ahead. I'll sell mine and buy something thats image hasn't been f**ked in the ass by a whole heap of try hards.

I have a 300rwkw Skyline and I'm still running the factory BOV. Why? Because the car doesn't stall, the cops don't hear it, and so I don't look like a wanker.

Seriously, when was the last time chicks came running out flashing their tits and vaginas trying to get into your car because they heard the sound of your BOV? 98% of people that hear it think you're a try hard wanker. That is the complete truth.

No one cares that your car goes whoosh and backfires everytime you change gears.

sounds like u care,and crome rims so YANKIE!im a black gangster(joke)

I would say young hoons doing burnouts for thier mates or dragging every vn commodore like a twit would make skylines look bad not a blowoff valve.

its usually the nut behind the wheel that gives the image the wank factor!do you see a rally car as a wank noise?

i agree it gets anoying at times thats why i brought a valve that does both, but to say that is a bit much?but each to his own

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Ive got my standard plumbback on at the moment (I did the whole atmo Bov thing ,it was for me)

but now ive got a new intake pipe getting made up for my new turbo and I wont be putting a return line in

so ill put my atmo back on (its a stealth fx,no i didnt waste 700 on it) but if I can get a return line plumbed in somewhere I will later on and plumb it back in

I do hear your point :P and agree in part

but why do drifters use it?isnt it ment to spool up faster on shifts for D1??

and why do rally cars use it?

I gues the motor is healthier with it plumbed back but is it more performance without?(on quickshifts)

and running no BOV at all is there alot of turbo LAG when changing gears?

rally and race cars run them because most good ones can vent much more air than a plumback, but for street use where a split second here and there doesn't make a difference, and where you aren't running huge amounts of boost it doesn't really matter.

if you are worried about lag on gear changes just don't lift of the throttle.

and running no BOV at all is there alot of turbo LAG when changing gears?

depends on how quickly you change gears. if you shift like a granny there will be as the turbo will have slowed down a fair bit.

on skylines there isn't much point changing as the stock one is pretty good. the stock one on s13 silvias and 180's on the other hand is crap. it doesn't work well at all and an atmo bov will make it a lot less laggy on gear changes. i noticed a huge difference when i put one on my old 180. but then i have also driven a 180 with a cheap shit bov and it was no better than stock.

Seriously, when was the last time chicks came running out flashing their tits and vaginas trying to get into your car because they heard the sound of your BOV? 98% of people that hear it think you're a try hard wanker. That is the complete truth.

:wave:

I'm with the Mafia

I know a heap of people in the import car scene, and 90% of them HATE the sound of an atmo BOV.

They love a well built car, but to them, and most people on here, the atmo BOV just screams LOOK AT ME, I'M GAY!!!

Also, every single friend of mine that is NOT into cars, can not stand the sound of the atmo BOV, they're used to exhaust noises in the local area whilst they're trying to sleep and all, but there biggest piss off is ass hats with Atmo BOV being noisy f**king idiots and going "Psht" on every gear change.

Oh, and slowest setup for spooling back up on gear changes, is actually no BOV. Why? You keep a high pressure in the intake pipes, the actuator beleives it's still making good boost, holds the waste gate open, what happens though, a whole heap less air is coming out of the motor, and the tiny bit that gets sent into the turbo is NOT enough to keep it spooled, and it slows.

Then, you can look at the plumb back setup, on an AFM tune. It spools up second slowest. Although the waste gate closes, it still spools up slowest, why? Read on to the fastest and find out.

The atmo venting on an AFM tuned car. This will spool the quickest, only by a fraction of a second. Why? Well the waste gate has closed, the AFM has seen a whole heap air still entering the motor, it dumps in a shit load of fuel, which hey, ignites in the exhaust, which spools the turbo up.

The quickest spooling way, is THE quickest way to kill your cat, and also to kill ceramic turbos.

A plumb back and atmo BOV on a MAP tuned car will not, and should not have a difference in spool times, as the amount of air entering the motor is measured at the motor, not at the intake pipe.

about time someone mentioned AFM's and map sensors.

Everyone thinks they sound like crap, so why put on on? They drive me crazy.

Nothing beats a nice turbo spool note, and no whoosh afterwards.

i run a pumback and i have never had any stall issues or any issues for 3 years... also, mine is plumback and i think it makes enough noise at low revs... how loud do people want there sound... i think the nice little bov sound sounds great, the quick little sound while you change.. never had atmo and i think i never will... no reason, dont need to do it :wave:

i run a pumback and i have never had any stall issues or any issues for 3 years... also, mine is plumback and i think it makes enough noise at low revs... how loud do people want there sound... i think the nice little bov sound sounds great, the quick little sound while you change.. never had atmo and i think i never will... no reason, dont need to do it :/

Can you send me some better pics of your car? I love black rims on silver.

Dose sounds better than a poofy BOV.

Thanks,

Abu

Dose rocks...

It's even better when you get pulled over and they go to do you for an atmo BOV when you have no BOV on the car... :/

Dose rocks...

It's even better when you get pulled over and they go to do you for an atmo BOV when you have no BOV on the car... :cheers:

Or if your smart you just block the BOV off as well as the VAC line so you dont have to take it off :/

And how do you get done for an ATMO BOV when you dont have one? lol

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
Or if your smart you just block the BOV off as well as the VAC line so you dont have to take it off :/

And how do you get done for an ATMO BOV when you dont have one? lol

Thanks,

Abu

Alot of police = dumb with regards to certain mods.

They hear the dose, beleive it as atmo BOV.

Pop hood. Scratch head. "Where is your BOV son?"

Alot of police = dumb with regards to certain mods.

They hear the dose, beleive it as atmo BOV.

Pop hood. Scratch head. "Where is your BOV son?"

Exactly.

Police are dumb as hell when it comes to imports. You very rarely find one that knows what they are talking about.

No BOV sighted = No defect.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
someone please point out which "RALLY" car uses a bov.

all the austalian rally cars use them.... well the ones without anti-lag. i went to a round of rally australia and was standing on a corner and most of the lancers and wrxs had bovs. the focus didn't but that's cause it's natro, lol.

atmo bov are just as good as stock ones or plumb backs. just as its the same as cars with no BOV.

stop dissn others personal tastes. if u wanna get that picky i can start shootn off about other shit.

why do u tint ur windows.

why did u change ur rims

why do ppl change their airbox to a pod.

we do these things cuz we like em.....simple as that

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Latest Posts

    • I just got to work and skimmed through 61508 and 61511. I was surprised the CSA adopted both, but neither are enforced. To recap what I read, it states that in a perfect world, they should be segregated but they acknowledge that this is not industry standard and clearly mention that they allow mixing of safety and non-safety. 61511 also mentions software segregation like AB does in their safety PLC's.   Now if only I could go back to control, let alone safety over comms. In my current line of work, we're only allowed monitoring and basic control over comms. Everything critical must still be hard wired as much as possible. 
    • I've unfortunately never been as they're on the complete other side of the continent and another country that isn't currently letting us in as easily as they use to. I even heard their stop signs over there actually say "Stop" instead of "Arret". If I decided to trek the 48h drive, I wouldn't know when or where to stop haha. Whenever I order parts from UP Garage, I order from Japan as it's cheaper. Same with GKTech... oddly enough, it's cheaper shipped from Australia then it is the US.  UP Garage Japan operates their US leg though, unlike Tomei. If Tomei JPN had the power to close down Tomei USA, I'm sure it would be done in a day. They're two completely separate entities. Tomei JPN messed up somewhere originally agreeing to its creation and got sacked big time. 
    • I asked someone about this and he told me about the Audi 1.8T engine. But I think it would be difficult to swap
    • I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.
    • SR20s came with cars like the Bluebird and Primera, but the RB20 never came. The ones in Turkey were either brought in specially or from abroad. That's why RBs aren't as common as SRs. And if a part breaks or I need to replace it when doing maintenance, it's harder to find parts for RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...