Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I read the specs on the stagea a while back as I am havin a good think about getting one someday, and wondered what they perform like in the everyday carpark scinario. Turning circle in the specs = 5.3 metres, and that's huge! Can you get a steering rack that makes the turning radius smaller?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181049-stageas-in-carparks/
Share on other sites

Huge? are you used to driving a barina or something?

Turning circle is hardly a factor i'd decide whether a car is good or not. I mean, I have a skyline - same gear. I have never found it a PROBLEM. e.g. I don't go oh shit, ran out of steering lock when trying to park...

In answer to your question, yes you can

Barina - no. Ford Laser - yes. it has...or should I say - had, a nice small turning circle. Thanks for answering the question too. I don't rate it steering as a major factor, but thought i'd throw the questions out there.

Well, as a direct comparison to my last car (eb falcon) I think the stag parked beautifully. Before you compare it to a laser, you may want to compare the wheelbase and interior space too.....

The Stagea has a pretty decent turning circle considering the fact that there are drive-shafts running to the front wheels too (unless you go for a RWD version). I came from a Corolla, and my old man still has a 2003 Camry. The turning circle on the Corolla was great (obviously, because it was a small car), but the Camry's turning circle is worse than my car's...

One thing with the Stagea is the rear overhang, but what's good is that the rear window is almost vertical, so it's pretty easy to judge how much room you have behind you if you reverse park into a spot. It's also good because it makes the load area much more useful, compared to a hatchback or a wagon with a steeply-sloping rear window area.

FFS you buy a car and you are worried about the tunring circle? Forgive me for saying this but how long have you had your license for?

In a car thats 4wd the turning circle is going to be always a large one. It doesnt mattes wheter is a sedan or suv. Why? Like they say theres Cv joints in the front wheels that drives it. Thats the factor that limiting the turning circle. Get it?

Driving skills is all you need to drive in a car park. One advise when driving such a long vehicle always go for a rear entry :P:D . Which means rverse in instead of parking head in first try it.

Rather than start a new topic i'm going to follow on with a similar question:

How's the reverse parking go with the Stagea? I'm coming from a Subaru Liberty Sedan and it's easy enough to park in tight spaces - I"m guessing Stag's aren't too bad in that respect?

Rather than start a new topic i'm going to follow on with a similar question:

How's the reverse parking go with the Stagea? I'm coming from a Subaru Liberty Sedan and it's easy enough to park in tight spaces - I"m guessing Stag's aren't too bad in that respect?

Like I mentioned above, Ian, having a good-sized rear window and an almost vertical tailgate helps heaps. You know that if there's roughly 2ft to the rear window from a wall, that roughly half of that should be left for the bumper. Of course, if you're gonna open the tailgate later to get the shopping in or whatever, don't forget to leave more room.

I find it enormously better than my 70 series Supra in carparks, for the simple fact that the Supra's doors are about 3 km long, and you had to take at least 6 months of yoga before even contemplating using anything but the aerotop for ingress/egress. Sure, the turning circle is a little wider than a Lotus Elise, but it's a Large car!

Ive never had an issue in a carpark and ive had to park in some stupid stupid spots.

On another note, want more lock, get aftermarket tie rod ends and adjust them for more lock, then a wheel alignment to adjust toe.

Otherwise, remove the rod ends and insert some spacers, aka washers, when screwing the rod end back in. This will do the same thing but in a less safe more borro drifter kinda way....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong but 5W30 at 100C is like 10 cSt vs 25 cSt for 10W60. If we think in terms of viscosity margin 10W60 will probably still be ok at 130C but 5W30 is probably too little. It's absolutely shocking how hot the oil gets in something like a stock FL5 from only ~3 minutes of use on the Nordschleife. I would not risk taking a car like that to anything remotely intense without a ton of work done for cooling. Heat shielding on the manifold/turbo/downpipe, oil coolers, etc. 
    • I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet. 
    • Jason should have shown a real viscosity vs temp chart. All the grades have very little viscosity difference at full operating temperature.
    • Oops... I meant to include the connector  view... BR/W - power from fuse L/W - motor negative to fan control amp (and off to HVAC pin19) OR/B - PWM signal (from HVAC pin20) B --  ground  
    • Yep, if you are applying filler it sounds like there is something wrong with the body lol. Safe to assume there is going to be a lot of sanding going on if your still applying fillers.  Picture a perfect bare metal panel, smooth as glass. You lay down your primer, it's perfect. (why are you going to sand it?) You lay down the colour and clear, it's perfect. No sanding at all took place and you've got a perfectly finished panel.  You won't be chasing your tail, sounds like you were prepping to start laying filler. If your happy with the body after the sanding, there is some bare metal exposed and some areas with primer, no issues at all, start laying the filler. You are safe to lay filler on bare metal or primer (of course check your technical data sheet as usual for what your filler is happy to adhere to).  This isn't a 100% correct statement. There is primer that is happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. There are fillers that are happy to adhere to smooth bare metal. Just make sure you're using the right materials for the job.  Typically if you are using filler, you would go primer, colour and clear. I've never seen any instances before where someone has laid colour over body filler (maybe this happens, but I haven't seen it before). So your plan sounds pretty normal to me. 
×
×
  • Create New...