Suspension Shop Suggesting Different Settings To Sydneykid

[mikel]

Just put a HICAS lock bar in and about to lift the car to 350mm front 340 rear and get a wheel alignment done.

The suspension shop is suggesting 4mm toe in on the rear and 2mm toe in on the front, as opposed to Gary's spec of 2mm rear and 0mm front.

I haven't put any of the SK groupbuy kit in so I don't have adjustable castor/camber etc.

The differences are bugger all, but can anyone recommend which setting - or what differences these changes would make to turn in etc?

I have a track day next week and want to get the car sorted - but it's mostly street driven.

[salad]

Their suggested wheel alignments are usually for improved tyre wear. SK's settings aim for a bit more handling.

[mikel]

thanks Salad - I would have thought that the extra toe-in (2mm front and 2mm rear) suggested by the shop would have produced more wear than SK settings, but been better behaviour (especially without the caster SK suggests, ie extra toe in on the front promotes self centering) but I don't know enough about the suspension side.

[T04GTR]

set it up 0 and 0 get it to handle then fine tune it with the alignment.

[Duncan]

they recommend toe in to improve tyre wear to counter the standard camber, it won't help your handling at all.

[Ronin 09]

I'm with T04GTR - zero zero for toe front rear

[djr81]

Go with SK's recommendations. Ignore the shop.

4mm toe in on the thing will make it tramline like a bitch.

I would suggest getting the camber kits too.

[Gts-t]

i got into an argument with the guy at the tyre shop, ended with me saying "look mate there are people out there smarter than you how about you just do what i want" hahah

i tried mine at zero front zero rear, ive since changed to 1mm out each side at the front (or was it two ) and it turns alot better

[Ronin 09]

2mm each side out at the front = much bigger balls than me @ high speed!!!

[STATUS]

omm front for street

2-3mm total toe in rear 4mm is too much

[T04GTR]

ok.. until gary comes in, heres what worked for me. but also playing with alignment settings to get you car to handle is not the right way to go about starting a good set up.

0 on the front and 0 on the rear will give neutral handling on a set up car. you need to start here and find out what your car is doing. understeering,oversteering,pushing etc etc.

the rear is much les sensative to toe. as all the bushes and shit move around and its al over the shop all the time when your up it..

as far as the front goes. with out changing springs and swaybars and bump steer etc etc to make it neutral. if it understeers you need to toe out. if it over steers you need to toe it to 0 and toe the rear in.

if it turns in well but then pushes you need to reduce the rear grip by toeing it in.

if it is unstable and unpredictable you probably have to much caster. you never want a toe in on the front. and try to get away with the smalest caster you can. usually its happy at around 7 positive.

basicly you can go past the pont of where adding toe on the front stops working. some race cars use up to 8mm each side!!! because they cant or wont play with the suspension settings. but if you ask me thats just retarded.