Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

tell him u want all GENUINE nissan parts BRAND NEW... they cost a bundle if u dont know where to go... the guys at palm get in all new parts and order them from japan... should bump the price up a bit.

i agree tho i wouldnt want it to go anywhere that they want u to depending on what insurance company ur with

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-384190
Share on other sites

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm with just cars at the moment. But the place that they are sending me to just sounds like your average local body shop. So i will have to us the genuine new parts deal.

Palm told me that the both back quarters and the roof would need respraying. I hope that others think the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-384242
Share on other sites

if they want to do it properly then they will have to... depending on how badly damaged the back is if they have to make any repairs to the rear qtr panel then they will need to blend the paint thru the back and roof... if it goes further back then they will have to blend it thru the doors.

i used to be a panel beater/painter so i know a few tricks of how to do it properly and dodgily :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-384252
Share on other sites

It is hard to say how damaged it is. It looks like it has popped out the sides a little, but really not a huge amount. The bumper is totally stuffed, the lights are now away from the panel, and the back panel has been pushed in a bit.

I guess that you could do the dodgy and just repair the bumper and the rear panel without fixing the rest. I guess that I'll just have to assume that they will do a good job, and if not, i'll worry about it then. Not the best way to go, but with the lack of knowledge that i have, what more can i do.

I'm sure that they won't try and screw me over.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-384286
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

im still waiting to take mine down... have to try and get my ****ing seats in before i can drive it down... its almost primed and ready for paint... its just these bloody seats that im waiting for!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-414922
Share on other sites

I dropped down last night to see what was going on and was amazed at what he showed me.

Not only is the rear panel destroyed, the actual floor of the boot is all warped. I didn't think that the damage was that bad. When i say warped, i really mean it. Con told me that you guys had been down and seen the car.

Also told me that Just Cars are being rather difficult for him, so I'm going to have to give them a call today and sort them out. I'm really missing my car.

The exhaust is also pretty messed up, so I'm going to get that replaced with a bigger system. I was going to do it anyway, and now it will cost me less.

Whistla, what sort of spoiler are you going to be putting on your car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-415075
Share on other sites

typical insurance arseholes... always making it harder than it needs to be. i was very tempted at one stage to just go and get a VT SS cause the insurance was 1500 cheaper even tho it had more power than my car.

its prejedice i tells ya!! (yeah i cant spell, i know it already)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-415238
Share on other sites

no panel shop can afford to cut corners today

Why not?? for insurance jobs though I guess..

Anyway, seeing as body shops, painting and things are a common occurance for us skyline owners it would be nice if we could tee up some form of sponsorship so we get cheaper rates, in return for some advertising or something. Other clubs have a similar arrangement.

So far I've been quoted $300 for my bar resprayed - reckon Palm will be able to match or better that? Not so keen about my car being away for 2 weeks, as I don't have a "spare" car sitting around unfortunately.

When i get my bond back from my old place, I will finally get my bumper and grilled resprayed - only been 3 months or something!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-415240
Share on other sites

i gave the insurance company a call today and got them all sorted. It is so hard to be mean to some people when they are being so nice.

They originally told me that i had to get 2 quotes for them, then when i call them today, that said that i only needed the one, and one from Palm would have been enough. If they had of told me this 2 weeks ago, it would have all been fixed now.

I'm sure that if we spoke to the guys at Palm, they might do something for us. There is enough of our cars there already.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-415250
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Ok. so getting sick of waiting for my car. It has almost been 4 weeks for a 2 week job. I know that the insurance company slowed them down a little when they had to get something else assessed, but this is not funny anymore.

I've sort of gone easy on them as they are replacing the exhaust with a bigger one for me, and touching up a few areas, but maybe it is time to get on their backs a little.

I've been told that I'll get my car back this Friday. I guess that i'll have to wait and see. I'm not holding my breath though.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-454644
Share on other sites

Originally posted by Arsn

Ok. so getting sick of waiting for my car. It has almost been 4 weeks for a 2 week job. I know that the insurance company slowed them down a little when they had to get something else assessed, but this is not funny anymore.

I've sort of gone easy on them as they are replacing the exhaust with a bigger one for me, and touching up a few areas, but maybe it is time to get on their backs a little.

I've been told that I'll get my car back this Friday. I guess that i'll have to wait and see. I'm not holding my breath though.

trust me mate the wait will be worth it.... i seen ur car when i went down there and i seen the job they done... they did it properly.... cut off the rear and welded a new wall in rather than pulling out the wrecked one and patching it up.

the jobs ive seen them do ddown there are quality.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-454962
Share on other sites

hehehe i know how u feel about wanting ur car back... i want mine back on the rd SO BAD!! :)

but yeah man from what ive seen they are doing a good job which is why im going to end up getting m ine finished there instead of where i was going to get it done cheaper.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18137-body-shops/page/2/#findComment-455033
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
    • Yeah - the secret learned a long time ago is that the RB likes to belch oil out the covers, and/or starve the pump because it drowns the head in oil, because the upflow of crankcase gases from piston blowby comes up through the oil drain holes in the block and prevents the oil from flowing back down. The external vents from sump are about creating an alternative path/much more XS area for gas flow to decrease the gas velocity up through the oil drains and allow the oil to get back down. So, it's not about pressure at all. It is about flows - gas up and oil down - or when it's not working, gas up and oil not going where it is supposed to after it arrives at the top, except out through the cam cover vents. And regardless of whether the catch can is vented to air or vented to the turbo inlet, it must still be vented because a sealed system would blow out the crank seals, or something equally bad.
×
×
  • Create New...