Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Got one in mine, much better than the standard battery, lasts longer, more power.. though it is slightly higher than ther std battery, so you will have to make up a custom bracket to hold it down..

plus it is a sealed battery, so you can mount it anyway you want.. i also had to extend the -'ve and +'ve cables to reach..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-382325
Share on other sites

If you have the money go an Optima Yellow top gell cell battery i think around 400 bucks, has killer crank power AND is deep cycle -you can let it go dead flat over and over and recharge it and it will be fine. ideal for big stereo's. We put one on a v8 and the speed that it cranks compared to a new std battery is unbelievable. Getting one for the line soon.

Ive heard good and bad about odysee batts. Some ppl love em, others say they drop cells real quick and are crap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383101
Share on other sites

I had an Odyssey ES12V800, what a piece of crap! It dropped a cell in less than 6mths.

I spoke with a few Odyssey battery stockists & users, I was shocked to find a number of them had failed within 12mths! To make matters worse the Odyssey rep treated me like an idiot & only OK'd the warranty claim after it was proven (in person) that it had failed due to poor quality construction. I offered the rep to test my car's elec system to show him it wasn't a charging sytem fault that killed the battery too! I got my money back & now run a Yellow Top Optima ($405) - that hasn't missed a beat & starts the car in a flash even after sitting for a few wks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383690
Share on other sites

I got a big odessey battery. Mainly got it for the stereo as they have alot more charge and ar more consistant. It is sooooooooooo noticeble as soon as oyu install it how quick the car kicks over on start up is incredicble compared to the standard battery. I am very impressed with mine, but price is not too good, i paid around the $400 mark for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-383960
Share on other sites

It's not the starting ability that's in question with these batteries. After all a 5sec 800CCA start pulse would want to do a good job! It's the quality control & longevity that's the issue! 6mths under "normal" useage isn't what I'd class as value for money :P I could accept the fact that I had a one-off bad one but when MANY other people report that same problem (including stockists) then I'd be taking my money elsewhere (as I did). The lack of customer service from Odyssey in OZ is the final nail in the coffin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384156
Share on other sites

Spose if yours farkd up then you copped bad service aswell, it wouldn't have gone down well eh... ah well i am happy with mine so far, its been in the car for about 3-4 months so i guess i'll know soon if it does the same thing, havn't had any problems yet, but i would have a liked to get an Optima battery but couldn't get one when i needed it. Ah well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384293
Share on other sites

Nothing wrong with normal batteries peoples, just sometimes, aprticularly with decent sound systems you need a good power source, and that only comes from a decent battery and is the reason i got mine. but i had heaps of problems with my standard battery anyway, would die after a few days of not driving it simply cos the alarm was armed so i had enough and got a newy, but went the better more exspensive battery for stereo cos i needed it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/18142-odysee-batteries/#findComment-384338
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Very nice - I also have a 92 GTST and hardly see any others around these days
    • When I need something else to edit, I use Movavi. A friend who does video editing on a daily basis recommended me) it's an easy video cutter to use for beginners
    • I need to edit some videos for work but I'm not good at all this. Which video editor can you recommend?
    • I think you're really missing the point. The spec is just the minimum spec that the fuel has to meet. The additive packages can, and do, go above that minimum if the fuel brand feels they need/want to. And so you get BP Ultimate or Shell Ultra (or whatever they call it) making promises to clean your engine better than the standard stuff....simply because they do actually put better additive packages in there. They do not waste special sauce on the plebian fuel if they can avoid it. I didn't say "energy density". I just said "density". That's right, the specific gravity (if you want to use a really shit old imperial description for mass per unit volume). The density being higher indicates a number of things, from reduces oxygen content, to increased numbers of double bonds or cyclic components. That then just happens to flow on to the calorific value on a volume basis being correspondingly higher. The calorific value on a mass basis barely changes, because almost all hydrocarbon materials have a very similar CV per kg. But whatever - the end result is that you do get a bit more energy per litre, which helps to offset some of the sting of the massive price bump over 91. I can go you one better than "I used to work at a fuel station". I had uni lecturers who worked at the Pt Stanvac refinery (at the time they were lecturing, as industry specialist lecturers) who were quite candid about the business. And granted, that was 30+ years ago, and you might note that I have stated above that I think the industry has since collected together near the bottom (quite like ISPs, when you think about it). Oh, did I mention that I am quite literally a combustion engineer? I'm designing (well, actually, trying to avoid designing and trying to make the junior engineer do it) a heavy fuel oil firing system for a cement plant in fricking Iraq, this week. Last week it was natural gas fired this-that. The week before it was LPG fired anode furnaces for a copper smelter (well, the burners for them, not the actual furnaces, which are just big dumb steel). I'm kinda all over fuels.
    • Well my freshly rebuilt RB25DET Neo went bang 1000kms in, completely fried big end bearing in cylinder 1 so bad my engine seized. No knocking or oil pressure issue prior to this happening, all happened within less than a second. Had Nitto oil pump, 8L baffled sump, head drain, oil restrictors, the lot put in to prevent me spinning a bearing like i did to need the rebuild. Mechanic that looked after the works has no idea what caused it. Reckoned it may have been bearing clearance wrong in cylinder 1 we have no idea. Machinist who did the work reckoned it was something on the mechanic. Anyway thats between them, i had no part in it, just paid the money Curiosity question, does the oil system on RB’s go sump > oil pump > filter > around engine? If so, if you had a leak on an oil filter relocation plate, say sump > oil pump > filter > LEAK > around engine would this cause a low oil pressure reading if the sensors was before the filter?   TIA
×
×
  • Create New...