Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i have a monza atmo bov that came with my car

basically i am getting alot of fluttering when backing off the throttle, its almost at a point where i cant let go of the pedal without getting flutter

what i done was loosen the bolt on top which i thought would make it require less force to open the piston but the more i loosen the more flutter i get (Note: i think it is coming from the pod filter not the BOV because when i give it a bit you can hear it come out the bov)

so am i supposed to tighten the spring so i dont get any flutter? (im guessing its the air chopping on the turbo blades and being heard through the pod because its not getting released out the bov)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181494-spring-tension-on-bov/
Share on other sites

usually when you tighten the screw on the BOV, it gives the spring inside more tension, which makes it harder to open = more throttle/boost/RPM to open. At low RPM it wont open as there isn't enough pressure, so that would cause it to flutter/dose.

When the screw it wound out, the spring isn't so tight, therefore requiring less pressure to open = less boost/RPM. At low RPM levels with not a great deal of pressure the BOV should open giving you no flutter/dose but instead BOV.

If that isn't the case, maybe the BOV is stuffed, or as others said maybe open it up and see what the go is. Maybe its jammed or something.

Thanks,

Abu

Sorry to say but the monza BOV's are s**t. I bought one brand new put it on the car and with it wound as tight as i could get it and the vacume suction was opening it and not letting boost build. Even at idle i could hear it sucking it open. If something is wrong with yours dont waste your time or money trying to fix it, get a decent quality one, im now running a turbosmart one and havent had any problems with it

its the ssqv look-alike one. I dont think there is a problem with it as boost holds up fine and it runs the same as with the stock one i grabbed apart from the noise...performance is the same

but yeah its working in the opposite direction it should be

its pretty hard to undo as there is no access to the allen key screws (if you see it you will know what i mean)

Yeah the Monza SSQV are notoriously crap

I had one on my legacy, basically sounded like a pig squealing

and after 2-3 weeks it permenantly stuck shut, so i got rid of it

Do the same, get rid of it and go back to stock or get a geniune Greddy or if you like the pig squeal HKS do a newer version

Yeah the Monza SSQV are notoriously crap

I had one on my legacy, basically sounded like a pig squealing

and after 2-3 weeks it permenantly stuck shut, so i got rid of it

Do the same, get rid of it and go back to stock or get a geniune Greddy or if you like the pig squeal HKS do a newer version

hahah pig squealing :D lol..

I dont understand why people upgrade from stock BOV to after market, its just a waste of money.

Stock BOV works perfectly fine. The only reason I'd upgrade is for the sound, but again thats waste of money.

Thanks,

Abu

I dont understand why people upgrade from stock BOV to after market, its just a waste of money.

Stock BOV works perfectly fine. The only reason I'd upgrade is for the sound, but again thats waste of money.

Thanks,

Abu

Well i had to get an aftermarket BOV as my car was N/A when i got it

ok this was on the car when i bought it from the dealer so i didnt buy it (btw they are $299 from supercheap which i rekon is a HUGE rip-off)

also got a standard BOV which i bought second hand but to be honest i rekon it sounds sort of gay coz your expecting a nice strong sound but instead you get this piss weak little 'pshew' that sounds like a pokemon lol. To be honest if you couldnt hear the stock one at all id leave it on but i just cant stand that sound

was looking into getting a stealth fx/hybrid gfb but cant justify the cash for one so id rather keep what ive got

ok this was on the car when i bought it from the dealer so i didnt buy it (btw they are $299 from supercheap which i rekon is a HUGE rip-off)

also got a standard BOV which i bought second hand but to be honest i rekon it sounds sort of gay coz your expecting a nice strong sound but instead you get this piss weak little 'pshew' that sounds like a pokemon lol. To be honest if you couldnt hear the stock one at all id leave it on but i just cant stand that sound

was looking into getting a stealth fx/hybrid gfb but cant justify the cash for one so id rather keep what ive got

Have to agree with you there, the stock BOVs do sound very soft and poofy. lol

Prefer flutter/dose my self so not a big fan of BOV's.

Well i had to get an aftermarket BOV as my car was N/A when i got it

Well thats fair enough then!

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
  • 1 month later...

in regards to Spring tension on BOV....

I just got a GFB Stealth FX bov for $200, fitted it up no probs. using 100% 'silent' plum back mode. this is on an auto (piggybacks) awd rb25det. works fine. Sounds, well, weird...... ;)

Now my query - what setting would be best for Spring tension? It is adjustable, 22 half turns in all from full - to +. had it set at 50% half tension but have upped it to around 80%.

Not sure what the best spring tension rate would best suited for 1bar boost, load of torque / midrange, low top end.

?

Plus its too hard (wrong as well) to test on the street as to what setting to spring pressure does what. Im 2mins from the Hills so Ive done a little driving and playing around but Id like opinions as to what spring pressure rate should be applied to the bov to suit a Slide journal-bearing turbo at 1bar on an auto tuned RB25det ?

My last mod will be the HKS actuator, hopefully then it will hold boost steadier rather then drop boost as it did with stock bov (tuned 1month ago). I only really bought the GFB bov to see if it would help hold boost better then the stock bov, I think it does. Plus for the price I could onsell it and not lose out so it was worth a try. I like it :)

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...