Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, i have a monza atmo bov that came with my car

basically i am getting alot of fluttering when backing off the throttle, its almost at a point where i cant let go of the pedal without getting flutter

what i done was loosen the bolt on top which i thought would make it require less force to open the piston but the more i loosen the more flutter i get (Note: i think it is coming from the pod filter not the BOV because when i give it a bit you can hear it come out the bov)

so am i supposed to tighten the spring so i dont get any flutter? (im guessing its the air chopping on the turbo blades and being heard through the pod because its not getting released out the bov)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181494-spring-tension-on-bov/
Share on other sites

usually when you tighten the screw on the BOV, it gives the spring inside more tension, which makes it harder to open = more throttle/boost/RPM to open. At low RPM it wont open as there isn't enough pressure, so that would cause it to flutter/dose.

When the screw it wound out, the spring isn't so tight, therefore requiring less pressure to open = less boost/RPM. At low RPM levels with not a great deal of pressure the BOV should open giving you no flutter/dose but instead BOV.

If that isn't the case, maybe the BOV is stuffed, or as others said maybe open it up and see what the go is. Maybe its jammed or something.

Thanks,

Abu

Sorry to say but the monza BOV's are s**t. I bought one brand new put it on the car and with it wound as tight as i could get it and the vacume suction was opening it and not letting boost build. Even at idle i could hear it sucking it open. If something is wrong with yours dont waste your time or money trying to fix it, get a decent quality one, im now running a turbosmart one and havent had any problems with it

its the ssqv look-alike one. I dont think there is a problem with it as boost holds up fine and it runs the same as with the stock one i grabbed apart from the noise...performance is the same

but yeah its working in the opposite direction it should be

its pretty hard to undo as there is no access to the allen key screws (if you see it you will know what i mean)

Yeah the Monza SSQV are notoriously crap

I had one on my legacy, basically sounded like a pig squealing

and after 2-3 weeks it permenantly stuck shut, so i got rid of it

Do the same, get rid of it and go back to stock or get a geniune Greddy or if you like the pig squeal HKS do a newer version

Yeah the Monza SSQV are notoriously crap

I had one on my legacy, basically sounded like a pig squealing

and after 2-3 weeks it permenantly stuck shut, so i got rid of it

Do the same, get rid of it and go back to stock or get a geniune Greddy or if you like the pig squeal HKS do a newer version

hahah pig squealing :D lol..

I dont understand why people upgrade from stock BOV to after market, its just a waste of money.

Stock BOV works perfectly fine. The only reason I'd upgrade is for the sound, but again thats waste of money.

Thanks,

Abu

I dont understand why people upgrade from stock BOV to after market, its just a waste of money.

Stock BOV works perfectly fine. The only reason I'd upgrade is for the sound, but again thats waste of money.

Thanks,

Abu

Well i had to get an aftermarket BOV as my car was N/A when i got it

ok this was on the car when i bought it from the dealer so i didnt buy it (btw they are $299 from supercheap which i rekon is a HUGE rip-off)

also got a standard BOV which i bought second hand but to be honest i rekon it sounds sort of gay coz your expecting a nice strong sound but instead you get this piss weak little 'pshew' that sounds like a pokemon lol. To be honest if you couldnt hear the stock one at all id leave it on but i just cant stand that sound

was looking into getting a stealth fx/hybrid gfb but cant justify the cash for one so id rather keep what ive got

ok this was on the car when i bought it from the dealer so i didnt buy it (btw they are $299 from supercheap which i rekon is a HUGE rip-off)

also got a standard BOV which i bought second hand but to be honest i rekon it sounds sort of gay coz your expecting a nice strong sound but instead you get this piss weak little 'pshew' that sounds like a pokemon lol. To be honest if you couldnt hear the stock one at all id leave it on but i just cant stand that sound

was looking into getting a stealth fx/hybrid gfb but cant justify the cash for one so id rather keep what ive got

Have to agree with you there, the stock BOVs do sound very soft and poofy. lol

Prefer flutter/dose my self so not a big fan of BOV's.

Well i had to get an aftermarket BOV as my car was N/A when i got it

Well thats fair enough then!

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
  • 1 month later...

in regards to Spring tension on BOV....

I just got a GFB Stealth FX bov for $200, fitted it up no probs. using 100% 'silent' plum back mode. this is on an auto (piggybacks) awd rb25det. works fine. Sounds, well, weird...... ;)

Now my query - what setting would be best for Spring tension? It is adjustable, 22 half turns in all from full - to +. had it set at 50% half tension but have upped it to around 80%.

Not sure what the best spring tension rate would best suited for 1bar boost, load of torque / midrange, low top end.

?

Plus its too hard (wrong as well) to test on the street as to what setting to spring pressure does what. Im 2mins from the Hills so Ive done a little driving and playing around but Id like opinions as to what spring pressure rate should be applied to the bov to suit a Slide journal-bearing turbo at 1bar on an auto tuned RB25det ?

My last mod will be the HKS actuator, hopefully then it will hold boost steadier rather then drop boost as it did with stock bov (tuned 1month ago). I only really bought the GFB bov to see if it would help hold boost better then the stock bov, I think it does. Plus for the price I could onsell it and not lose out so it was worth a try. I like it :)

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, they look good. I should try to fit them on mine. But being a GTSt, the guard shape probably doesn't suit properly.
    • Nah, it's not a simple voltage divider. I'm not enough of an electronics guru to know how they make these circuits work. If I had a better idea of how the ECU's temperature measuring is done, I could then actually do as you want, which is turn that resistance chart into a voltage chart. But my approach has not worked. What I did was interpolate the sensor ohms values for the temperatures you listed, as you did not have any of them on a temperature ending in zero or 5. These are: °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) 58 2.68 11.85 57 2.7 11.89 56 2.74 11.93 54 2.8 12.01 49 3.06 12.208 47 3.18 12.284 43 3.37 12.42 I then assumed 5V supply to the resister and calculated the voltage drop across the sensor for each of those, which is just 5 - the above voltages, and then calculated the current that must be flowing through the sensor. So you get:             Values in sensor °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) Supply volts Volt drop Current 58 2.68 11.85     5 2.32 0.195781 57 2.7 11.89     5 2.3 0.19344 56 2.74 11.93     5 2.26 0.189438 54 2.8 12.01     5 2.2 0.183181 49 3.06 12.208     5 1.94 0.158912 47 3.18 12.284     5 1.82 0.14816 43 3.37 12.42     5 1.63 0.13124 And then use that current and the ECU's sensed voltage (which must be the voltage drop across the in ECU resister is there is one) to calculate the resistance of that in ECU resistor. You get:             Values in sensor   Other resistor °C ECU V sensor ohms (interpolated) Supply volts Volt drop Current   Volt Drop Resistance 58 2.68 11.85     5 2.32 0.195781   2.68 13.68879 57 2.7 11.89     5 2.3 0.19344   2.7 13.95783 56 2.74 11.93     5 2.26 0.189438   2.74 14.46381 54 2.8 12.01     5 2.2 0.183181   2.8 15.28545 49 3.06 12.208     5 1.94 0.158912   3.06 19.25592 47 3.18 12.284     5 1.82 0.14816   3.18 21.46325 43 3.37 12.42     5 1.63 0.13124   3.37 25.67816 And that's where it falls apart, because the resulting resistance would need to be the same for all of those temperatures, and it is not. So clearly the physical model is not correct. Anyway, you or someone else can use that information to go forward if someone has a better physical model. I can also show you how to interpolate for temperatures between those in the resistance chart. It's not fun because you've got to either do it like I did it for every 5°C range separately, or check to see if the slope remains constant over a wide range, then you can just work up a single formula. I'm just showing how to do it for a single 5° span. For the 58°C temperature, resistance = 11.77+2*(11.97-11.77)/5 The calc is a little arse backwards because the resistance is NTC (negative temperature coefficient), so the slope is negative, but I'm lazy, so I just treated 58 as if it was 2 degrees away from 60, not 3 degrees away from 55, and so on.
    • Um.... This is not easy. I will have a fiddle with it, but make no promises. I think, given the explicit resistances vs temperature, and your ECU measured voltages, it should be possible to match them up. I will do that by assuming a 5V supply from ECU to sensor, find out how much current would have to flow to produce that voltage, then use that current as a .... nah f**k. That won't work. The supply voltage is fixed, but there's nothing to say that the ECU regulates the current too. Um... I dunno. I guess there's a voltage divider setup in the ECU. As in, there's another resistance between the ECU's sense terminal and ground. That way, as the sensor resistance changes, that's how they get a floating voltage that varies with the temperature, without having to control the current. Give me a minute or 3.
    • *that* is a question for chatgpt (or someone that understands maths....but I'd try chatty). Drop them the table and ask for the formula
    • Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT
×
×
  • Create New...