Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

to cut along story short

Got new rda slotted rotors front with some new generic pads (maxistop pads i think)

Got new rda slotter rotors rear with some other generic pads (mcb kevlar)

installed them as follows

cleaned all shims and applied orange anti squeel glue on them

chamfered all pads leading and traling edge on an angle

bled all 4

bed them in as descibred somehwre here on the forum (a few stops from 80 to 40 medium brake than some from 100 to 70 with hard pressure than drove for 10minutes to cool them before turning car off)

and they still freaking squeal, only when coming to a stop say 30km/h or less

WHYYYYYYYYYYYYY

getting braided lines within a week or 2 so will take them out and check if the pads are glazed, also will do a full brake fluid flush which should help pedal feel

any ideas??

rand up nissan and they want approx $180 for the anti squeal shim kit which i dont want to pay (mine are a bit rusty and thought maybe a new set with the copper grease will fix it if it was a cheap price)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181505-tried-all-things-but-failed/
Share on other sites

Try a real stop bed in session.

5 stops from about 120 to 20 then drive to cool off the discs.

personally I prefer racebrakes pads. Also consider chucking in a master cylinder stopper but those and lines won't stop the squeal.

forgot to mention also have a master cylinder stopper

i will need to bleed the abs unit too is that right?? any instructions on how to?

i will try the real bed in session when i get a chance but its hard to do coz people looking at you think you've lost it haha

Squealing 99% of the time has nothing to do with the friction material... its almost all the time caused by harmonics between the backing plate and the caliper itself.

Old trick, get some permatex and put a light coating on your backing plates... problem fixed! :)

cleaned all shims and applied orange anti squeel glue on them

There are three mating surfaces where you could apply the glue - pad to shim, shim to shim, and shim to piston. I *think* shim to piston is the critical one. I also left the grease between the shims. Cleaning it off may not have been a good idea.

Mate i'm in the same boat as you... i've tried bloody everything and spent so much fkn money and they squeak / squeel worse than ever. It's soo excrutiating!! I've tried 2 dif ABS places and both say the same "only so much you can do with skylines".. and both end up with same result. I've got new pads, new rotors and back plate thingy that ur suppose 2 try for skylines and its no use... still squeak.. i hate it!

My rear brakes (mainly rear right) are squealing at the moment.

I too just changed to RDA slotteds front and rear. I have EBC greenstuff on the front and they appear to be fine. It's the Bendix Ultimates on the rear that worry me (doesn't seem very popular this pad?). I am thinking that for the street these are just too hard or require a bit of temp to get them grippy. On the front they may be fine but the rear propbably wouldn't be doing much work. I might just try the Bendix CT or something else cheap in the rear and see how that goes.

A friend had RB74's in his car and no matter what combination of anti-squeel product or method of bedding we used they would squeel badly. Once you got them hot they were great but as soon as you cruised and went to stop that last little bit of light braking would just scream. Put the standard pads in and it was fine. Ended up changing brands on the front and putting standards in the rear.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...