Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Starting a thread of posting your car's Audio Install's.. Show us your specs and your pictures

Use the template bellow.. And Insert your details and photos.

Have Fun :thumbsup:

 [i]Specs:[/i]

[b]Headunit:[/b]
[b]Front:[/b]
[b]Amp:[/b]
[b]6x9:[/b]
[b]Sub Amp:[/b]
[b]Sub:[/b]
[b]Capacitor:[/b]
[b]Wiring:[/b]


[i]Car:[/i]

[b]Make:[/b]
[b]Model:[/b]
[b]Year:[/b]


[i]Pictures:[/i] 

<---Insert Here--->

Edited by fadinmist
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181506-your-audio-install-picturesspecs/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i'll start :thumbsup:

Specs:

Headunit: Pioneer DVD Touch-Screen

Front: MTX TDX-6502

Amp: MTX Thunder 3404

6x9: MTX TDX 6903

Sub Amp: MTX Thunder 3401

Sub: MTX Thunder 7500

Capacitor: None

Wiring: 4Ga Powers - 12GA Speaker Wire - 3 x Audioline RCAS

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline R32

Year: 1993

Pictures:

post-40636-1187513613_thumb.jpg

post-40636-1187513624_thumb.jpg

post-40636-1187513645_thumb.jpg

Edited by fadinmist

Specs:

Headunit: Kenwood DDX6019

Front: Earthquake fc6.2 (600watt)

Amp: Earthquake ph2200.4 (4x175WRMS 4Ohm)

6x9: Earthquake EQ-693r (800watt)

Sub Amp: Earthquake PH5000d (5000 watt)

Sub: 2x Audiopipe 1000 WRMS DVC candy subs

Capacitor: 25 Farad power accoustic + 6 Farad power accoustic

Wiring: 1x run 0awg to 25 farad cap feeding monoblock, 1x run of 4awg to 6 farad cap feeding 4 channel

Car:

Make: Suzuki

Model: Swift Gti

Year: 1995

Pictures:

post-5992-1187517177_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517256_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517381_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517495_thumb.jpg

post-5992-1187517551_thumb.jpg

Edited by nemz
Specs:

Headunit: Kenwood DDX6019

Front: Earthquake fc6.2 (600watt)

Amp: Earthquake ph2200.4 (4x175WRMS 4Ohm)

6x9: Earthquake EQ-693r (800watt)

Sub Amp: Earthquake PH5000d (5000 watt)

Sub: 2x Audiopipe 1000 WRMS DVC candy subs

Capacitor: 25 Farad power accoustic + 6 Farad power accoustic

Wiring: 1x run 0awg to 25 farad cap feeding monoblock, 1x run of 4awg to 6 farad cap feeding 4 channel

Car:

Make: Suzuki

Model: Swift Gti

Year: 1995

Pictures:

Hahah NEMZ man, that car is going to flip once the bass hits :)

Nice install but, must sounds mint.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu

Specs:

Headunit: Clarion DXZ766MP

Front: Alpine DDLinear splits

Amp: Alpine PDX-4150 digital amp

Rear: Alpine DDLinear's

Sub Amp: Alpine PDX-11000 digital amp

Sub: 2 x 12" Alpine Type R

Capacitor: 1 farad

Wiring: lots :thumbsup:

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: Skyline R33

Year: 1994

Pictures:

Custom Boot:

post-15008-1187692025_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692072_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692109_thumb.jpg

Custom Parcel Shelf:

post-15008-1187692165_thumb.jpg post-15008-1187692260_thumb.jpg

Tweeter Position:

post-15008-1187692305_thumb.jpg

Specs:

Headunit: Alpine IVA-D310E

Front stage: Boston Acoustic Pro60

Powered by: Audison LRx 2.5 amp

Sub: ID Max 12 Dual 2Ohm

Powered by: Audison LRx1.4 amp

Wiring: 0/4Ga + Stinger

Sound deadening: lotsa Dynamat

Built & tuned for SQ but it still pumps out some nice SPL :thumbsup:

Pictures:

post-25499-1187685828_thumb.jpg post-25499-1187685835_thumb.jpg post-25499-1187686200_thumb.jpg

Edited by G_Force

Specs:

Headunit: JVC DVD Unit and 7" VGA Touchscreen Moulded into the dash Air con controls moved to where the ashtray used to be

Front: Haha still stock

Amp: Running off the deck

6x9: stock rears

Sub Amp: 600wrms alpine

Sub: 2x 12" Alpine type S

Capacitor: no need they do more harm that good

Wiring: 2 Gauge to the amp rest for now is stock

Car:

Make: Nissan

Model: R32 Skyline

Year: 1990

Pictures: Still to come car is in the shop at the moment

Specs:

Headunit: Carputer, interface via Xenarc 7" touch screen

Front: Rainbow SLC265Kicks

Amp: TruTechnology 4ch

Sub: Rainbow 12" Amboss

Sound Deadening: Dynamat extreme to inside and outside doors skins, Dynaxorb mats

Car:

Make: R33 GTS-T Series II

Year: 1996

Pictures:

17082007486xl0.jpg

Edited by Trav33
Specs:

Headunit: Carputer, interface via Xenarc 7" touch screen

Front: Rainbow SLC265Kicks

Amp: TruTechnology 4ch

Sub: Rainbow 12" Amboss

Sound Deadening: Dynamat extreme to inside and outside doors skins, Dynaxorb mats

Car:

Make: R33 GTS-T Series II

Year: 1996

Rainbows & Tru Tech... must sound sweeeetttt....

  • 1 month later...
is this worthy?

That's not bad, nice install, pity about the gear though :spank:

Maybe sell the gear, get a nice 1000watt RMS amp and a IDQ12 :P for some real kick arse sound :rofl:

Also lose the farrad capacitor on small systems like that they don't do much at all to be honest

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below. 
    • It's weird to me that you say this because I'm pretty sure locals with relatively standard standalone tunes (boost/barometric compensated alpha-N) still have driveability issues when they pop intercooler hoses. Maybe with enough data I can just train some kind of model that spits out an expected grams/cyl given every sensor input except MAF like what FCA did with their Pentastar 3.6 ECU logic. Basically stock everything. The main motivation honestly is to have a sensor that can be a decent baseline source of truth. In scenarios you're describing obviously it won't work every time but it seems to me the number of corner cases that exist in MAF load is maybe not as severe and difficult to manage vs ITB alpha-N with some MAP/barometric compensation.
    • What are your plans for your blow off valves? Purely plumb back? How soft will the spring in them be? AFM can be tricky to get super smooth and nice, especially depending on the rest of the system, and then can be very easily upset if something slightly changes. IE, even if you run recirc blow off valves, you could still see issues getting it to behave at certain load points as turbos might start to spool, but you release the throttle but it's not enough pressure to crack the bov open to recirc, and you can end up with reversion which can cause double metering, and hence dumping of fuel into the system, and stalling the engine.   If you're going to run a map sensor for closed loop boost control from the ECU, what makes you want to keep the AFM?    
    • It's not bad, it's just not flexible. And say if you have any leaks between the MAF and plenum, well then your load axis goes out the window. Here's a real world scenario, I blew off an intercooler hose last track day, as the clamp decided to Bluetooth itself somewhere. Still continued to do 2 laps and drive it to the pub for a couple of beers then home. Good luck doing that with a MAF setup 
    • Is MAF load really that bad? I'm not trying to do big power, my only real desire is VCAM and flex fuel support so I'm not terrified of blowing my engine apart from CA's appalling 95 RON "premium" fuel. Stuff like playing with closed loop boost control and really dialing in my transient fueling and ignition are frankly just to prove to myself I remembered something from uni.
×
×
  • Create New...