Your Audio Install *pictures+specs*

[-Stokesy-]

I ditched the spare, if i put my space saver on i wouldn't have anywhere to put the wheel i took off!

[DRD-00F]

my space saver is gooooooooone

I have spare rims and tyres though for different events, so worst case I would leave the car where it is and go and get the spare rims and tools to jack the car up and put them on... Normally requires a friend or two as well... Hasn't happened yet but it wouldn't be that big of a deal for me...

[Carbon 34]

as Jack said......you dont have to ditch the spare or jack, just be more creative in the install and at least carry a can of "fix a flat" stuff

I hate depending on others if my car gets a flat and certainly dont want to leave it on the road to go get help while the crims get leasure time for parts stripping.

[BundyBear]

I've just finshed installing a set of new Boston PRO60 SE's in my R34 in Bi-wire/bi-amp formation and they sound fantastic. With over 70rms delivered to each woofer and tweeter in the car the sound stage delivers sounds I NEVER knew existed in songs! Surely worth the 1k or so they are worth

Next is to replace the subs I blew - Who knew you could actually blow 1000wrms subs!

Quality is always worth paying 4 isn't it, wait till you hear the sound guy or producer through the singers earphones

I asube by Bi-wire you mean one amp for left chanel and one for the right. I had my old civic (EZB00M 4 the old Central coasties) setup like that an I loved it. Will never mix my lefts and rights again...

and yes a 10W amp can blow up a 100W sub, seen it done. How you say .... DISTORTION, without going into the dynamics of cone movement vs Electrical input, distortion = heat, heat in subs and heat in amps. nasty nasty stuff....

Im plan'n one a stealth install as I drive mine daily and have little kids, I'm thinkn of a pair of 10" mounted where the back doors normally go (r33 coupe) in a glass box. does anyone know if theres any gear in there already.

Maybe whent the kidz get a bit older I bight think of a trio of 15z, hehe just dreamn

P.S.

l_uk3y

not pickn onya mate, its a common misbeleif. Caps are not useless, ... unless you don't need one that is!

So what does the cap do... easy fills in the transients. that is to say when a base beat hits hard, your amps pull lots of current, that current heats up your 0,2,4 guage cable, raising its resistance theirfore raising the voltage LOST over the cables (+ & -). that means less fuel 4 the amp,

the other advantage of a cap is speed. Batery can only put out so much current so fast (see CCA rating) caps are so much faster at this

so @ the end you get slightly more power to the subs(less voltage lost on pwr cables) but mostly more punch/impact from those big suddden hits ( easiest to notice with songs with lots of drums)

speaking of the old girl some quick details

2 x Alpine MRV F400's one left chanel one right ( both in bridged mode)

2 x 12" alpine ZR subs

5.25 MB quarts, up front run of amp

4" Pioneer in rear of deck(also cut cap in tweeter to disable) I like my sound from the front of the car... just my preference, afterall I don't go to a live gig and stand with my back to the band

1farad cap

[Carbon 34]

Quality is always worth paying 4 isn't it, wait till you hear the sound guy or producer through the singers earphones

I asube by Bi-wire you mean one amp for left chanel and one for the right. I had my old civic (EZB00M 4 the old Central coasties) setup like that an I loved it. Will never mix my lefts and rights again...

and yes a 10W amp can blow up a 100W sub, seen it done. How you say .... DISTORTION, without going into the dynamics of cone movement vs Electrical input, distortion = heat, heat in subs and heat in amps. nasty nasty stuff....

Im plan'n one a stealth install as I drive mine daily and have little kids, I'm thinkn of a pair of 10" mounted where the back doors normally go (r33 coupe) in a glass box. does anyone know if theres any gear in there already.

Maybe whent the kidz get a bit older I bight think of a trio of 15z, hehe just dreamn

P.S.

l_uk3y

not pickn onya mate, its a common misbeleif. Caps are not useless, ... unless you don't need one that is!

So what does the cap do... easy fills in the transients. that is to say when a base beat hits hard, your amps pull lots of current, that current heats up your 0,2,4 guage cable, raising its resistance theirfore raising the voltage LOST over the cables (+ & -). that means less fuel 4 the amp,

the other advantage of a cap is speed. Batery can only put out so much current so fast (see CCA rating) caps are so much faster at this

so @ the end you get slightly more power to the subs(less voltage lost on pwr cables) but mostly more punch/impact from those big suddden hits ( easiest to notice with songs with lots of drums)

speaking of the old girl some quick details

2 x Alpine MRV F400's one left chanel one right ( both in bridged mode)

2 x 12" alpine ZR subs

5.25 MB quarts, up front run of amp

4" Pioneer in rear of deck(also cut cap in tweeter to disable) I like my sound from the front of the car... just my preference, afterall I don't go to a live gig and stand with my back to the band

1farad cap

R34 coupe has enough room if you do some metal cutting of the main body shell, which is defect in adelaide and most likely with ADR , everwhere ?

the volume is roughly enough for a sealed box sub depending on how crazy you go on remolding your rear panels , you could hide 8" or 6.5" and use factory panels with some retrim for the sound to get out.

ps. Hint if you own a R34 the steel panels behind the rear seat and in the rear sides are crazy heavy ...lol

the same thickensss Carbon fibre laminates save a ton of weight and are 5 times stronger then steel

without the rear one your rear end chassis flex will be noticed, I tested it in a very basic way..lol