Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi,

got a few spare parts for sale

rb20/25 throttle body: $90

fuel rail + injectors: $100

ignitor module: $90

timing covers: $50

starter motor: $ 50

coilpacks with mounting bracket: $30

power steering pump: $ 100

and might have a wiring loom for sale..

parts are in syd, pick up available and can post at buyers expense

Edited by silver gts-t
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181557-misc-parts-cheap-r32/
Share on other sites

hi,

got a few spare parts for sale

rb20/25 throttle body (pretty sure they are the same): $130

fuel rail + injectors: $130

ignitor module: $100

timing covers: $50

starter motor: $ 50

coilpacks with mounting bracket: $40

power steering pump: $100

and might have a wiring loom for sale..

parts are in syd, will post at buyers expense

Are the injectors flow tested? I'm guessing this all from an RB20DET?

parts are from an rb20

no they arnt flow tested, i would always recommentd you flow test injectors before install, that way you can see the variance and use the injector that flows more at cyl 6

prices are slightly negotiable

Edited by silver gts-t
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...