Jump to content
SAU Community

What Tyres Without Braking Traction In 2nd Gear?

Robo's
 Share

Recommended Posts

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
Posted

My Toyo RA1 are shot. Now with over 250rwkw i am braking traction in 2nd gear under boost.

What tyres do you run and does it hold traction in 2nd gear with over 250rwkw? Can normal street tyres do it or do i need to run semi slicks again?? Over $400 a pop, they arent cheap. I heard Nankung's arent bad in the dry, but will they hold the skyline down?

tek_01 Proficient

tek_01

Posted
Posted

rofl nankangs... they about $130 a pop for a 17" 225 which is cheap

i have them all round on my car and the rears break traction coming onto boost in 1st and JUST hold on in second

im running standard turbo too, dyno'd at just over 200rwkw so unless you got some 265s on there i dont think theyll hold

Nismo_God Veteran

Nismo_God

Posted
Posted

mate toyo t1r's are great but pricey....i have hankook k104 sports which arnt too expenseive and they hold pretty good....holds 2nd hitting boost...but not first....thats with 205kw

skybarge Community Regular

skybarge

Posted
Posted

haha yeah i had 255/50/16s on my old GTR rims :) 16x8, worked quite well actually :( i was surprised

Bridgestone Potenza GIIIs are good too, although wear out quite fast

Toyo Proxies are alright as well, just depending on your budget, go for eitehr or those 3

Bullet32 Veteran

Bullet32

Posted
Posted

My R32 has almost 250rwkw and I use Federal 595,s which are great for traction, but its torque thats the real problem, if you have heaps of torque then you will spin tyres pretty easily no matter what you use.

You could keep using UHP street tyres but you will probably find that you will get the same result from most of them, if you use semi slicks you will get more traction but semi slicks wont really reach max grip levels on the street as they wont heat up enough.

You could use something along the lines of the Federal 595RS which is more of a street semi slick (not R compound) with a very soft compound and lots of rubber on the road, check them out at www.federaltyres.com.au.

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah heard about those Federal's RS, they seem around the $400 mark as well. I'll shop around.

Yeah torque is the problem. Running high boost, she comes on pretty hard in the middle and thats where the problem is

GTRsean Grand Master

GTRsean

Posted
Posted
Im running 255/40/17, i dont think a slight size increase will hold it down

He had 265 17x9

He now has 295 30 R20 20x10

More to do with the better quality rubber overall, but still fat.

1JZ GTE VVTI on 1.1bar, manual has a shit tin of torque due to VVTI, so it does have issues, hence the wider rubber.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted

look at your alignment (static and dynamic), RA-1's should hold that sort of power when hot. Have you looked at changing cradle angle to inprove traction? we just fitted Super pineapples to the drift car and have found a BIG gain in traction over the std ones.

we run 3mm total toe in

.2-1deg neg depending on track

adjust traction arms to suit ride height (these reduse toe change during suspensiontravel)

Cradle angle increased by about 20mm (front down)

Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
  • Author
Posted
look at your alignment (static and dynamic), RA-1's should hold that sort of power when hot. Have you looked at changing cradle angle to inprove traction? we just fitted Super pineapples to the drift car and have found a BIG gain in traction over the std ones.

we run 3mm total toe in

.2-1deg neg depending on track

adjust traction arms to suit ride height (these reduse toe change during suspensiontravel)

Cradle angle increased by about 20mm (front down)

Yeah the RA1's definately hold it down in 2nd gear but they are well and truely past their use by date. Looking for some cheaper replacements but looks like i will have to use R series tyres.

mickr33 Community Regular

mickr33

Posted
Posted

Hey Robo how's it going. Im running the Nankang nsII's on the back in a 255 on 18's. That's the widest i could go due to the offset of the rims. They are not to bad on very grippy roads but generally do break traction in second with 260kw. So i think you might be dissapointed with these tyres. Hope this help's. :cheers:

  • 1 month later...
Robo's Mentor

Robo's

Posted
  • Author
Posted
NO TRACTION!! u got a 1.88 second 60ft time!! r u just f@*kin round or wot??

Read the post, my tyres are shot!!! :whistling:

Anyway ended up getting to Falken Azenis RT615. There still new and a little bit skatey, might test them out this weekend

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Can perhaps see how the R33 appreciators would think so.  
    • Randhj
      R34 4 door indicator and horn issue

      By Randhj · Posted

      Thanks, I removed the fuse and the relay from the car and made my own circuit with them to test them with a test bulb.  I will look for the wiring diagram and go from there.
    • Milkmun
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Jdm DC2R is also nice for a FF car compared to the regular hatches of the time.
    • PranK
      The FD RX7 is the best looking 90's JDM car

      By PranK · Posted

      Gotta admit, I love the 20b Cosmo.
    • joshuaho96
      Nismo Super Coppermix Twin and R33 GTR transmission replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
×
×
  • Create New...