Converting To Steel Wheel Turbos

[Mike.]

Was looking into the 2860's myself after much reading of the forums.

Looking at this website can anyone tell me what the difference between the 707160-5005 and the 707160-5007 off their site? They both seem to be the same thing?

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Garrett...ml#_707160_5005

From that website if i was after the "2530 equivalent" would i want the 707160-5010 which says its a 350HP version?

Its confused me as i thought the 2530 version was the "-5" as R31Nismoid pointed out in his post.

:S

[MrStabby]

Was looking into the 2860's myself after much reading of the forums.

Looking at this website can anyone tell me what the difference between the 707160-5005 and the 707160-5007 off their site? They both seem to be the same thing?

Check out garretts website - the -7s are R34 N1 equivalents @310hp, the -5s are bigger @360hp.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

[djr81]

Was looking into the 2860's myself after much reading of the forums.

Looking at this website can anyone tell me what the difference between the 707160-5005 and the 707160-5007 off their site? They both seem to be the same thing?

http://www.sonicperformance.com.au/Garrett...ml#_707160_5005

From that website if i was after the "2530 equivalent" would i want the 707160-5010 which says its a 350HP version?

Its confused me as i thought the 2530 version was the "-5" as R31Nismoid pointed out in his post.

:S

nismoid is right.

They turbos come in a number of flavours. Go to the www.turbobygarrett.com website. The different maps will show you how much hp they things can help the engine generate.

[WRRR]

As you will need to remove the exhaust manifold you will need some new gaskets, copper washers for the oil and water lines to the turbos. also you will have to alter the bolt holes in oil return line, as they the new turbos for some reason are a few mm closer than the stock items.

Ohh and about $8 for the largest box of bandaids you can get ( box of 500 will do )

I'm lost, if you don't have an exhaust manifold gasket leak you shouldn't have to remove the manifold to fit new turbos.

Bingo on the bandaids though.

As for -5 or -7 to make the most out of -5 you will probably need to spend up on injectors, etc. -7 will be a bit up from stock and give you the BB and steel wheel confidence.

[djr81]

Check out garretts website - the -7s are R34 N1 equivalents @310hp, the -5s are bigger @360hp.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_5.htm

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...0R_707160_7.htm

Gabe is right. Thing to note is that the hp figures quoted are based on the maximum possible airflow produced by the turbos & are flywheel horspower figures. They are also each. You can get approx 10 hp from 1 lb/min of airflow.

Unfortunately the numbers are also bullshit because you never get to that side of the compressor map. Again unfortunately it is common for people to talk of the hp capacity of the turbos - that Japanese started it & I for one wish it would go away & the companies just publish their bloody compressor maps. Maps tell you things - like efficiency. A raw hp number tells younext to nothing.

[gtrboosting]

ok heres the plan. buy a EBC and run 10psi. Buy power fc and cams. Have the turbo's inspected and probably high flow them with steel wheels. get the power fc and cams insaled and tuned to 15psi. Drive around with 250awkw and be happy forever

Edited August 21, 2007 by gtrboosting

[SLIPPERY]

save your money on the cams if you want 250rwkw

Stock ones are good enough

[djr81]

ok heres the plan. buy a EBC and run 10psi. Buy power fc and cams. Have the turbo's inspected and probably high flow them with steel wheels. get the power fc and cams insaled and tuned to 15psi. Drive around with 250awkw and be happy forever

I think you need to have a bit of a think about what changes need to be made to reach your target hp.

Start point: A totally stock GT-R (maybe an exhaust) running 13# will give you over 300rwhp.

From there you should look for the following.

Cam gears.

Different turbos.

Good K&N filter.

Power FC

Boost controller.

Now, depending on how hard you want to push your fuel & air metering systems your goal is in sight. IF you are worried about airflow, the power FC will easilly accept Nismo meters, or RB20 items, or Z32 items. Take your pick. If you are worried about the fuel some larger 550cc injectors will fix that.

Check the forced induction section for a list of dyno results with attendent mods. There is much to learn there.

Finally, you don't need cams.

If you want to high flow your turbos I would suggest buying some second hand ones that way you can take your time getting it done & you car won't be off the road for however long it takes. Then just sell your stock turbos after everything is done.

[Beer Baron]

there is a recipe for 250kw with a GTR and this is my way of cooking it:

cam gears

Power FC

good boost controller (less spiking means longer turbo life)

free flowing cat back exhaust and High flow cat (and front pipes if you like)'

nismo fuel pump

lots of tuning work

1.05bar

you will now have between 240 and 270kw atw depending on your engine and turbo health.

as for stock GTR turbo failure I have run stock GTR turbos for over 3 years at 1.05bar street, circuit and even drag strip with no problems. but would I reccomend it to you?? no I wouldn't there are plenty of cases of premature turbo failure so to be sure change them if you can afford it.

[gtrboosting]

Beer baron that is the setup i'm going for. I alredy have a free flowing exhaust with new hks pods and suspension. I don't know what boost the car is running now but it feels slow compared to my old 180sx on 14psi.

As I said ill do EBC, Cam gears, power fc and steel wheel turbo's running 15psi. Can you explain to me why you chose to upgrade to a NISMO pump? I thought the standard was fine for that kind of power figure?

That should let me reach 250 providing things are in good condition. :)

[Beer Baron]

standard pump is fine up to about 300rwkw, but after 15 years they can and will die. and if it dies slowly, not all in one go the first thing you'll know about it is your engine dieing... buy the pump, it's cheap insurance. plus the nismo one is easy to DIY install and super reliable. and flows enough to run 700cc injectors.

[Beer Baron]

btw my advice is forget the idea of 'steel wheel' or 'high flow' turbos. get either the HKS GT-SS kit, or the garret equivelant. as at the end of the day a 15yo turbo with new exhaust wheel is still in many ways a 15yo turbo. and with so much effort (and $$ if you aren't doing it yourself) in removing and replacing GTR turbos it's silly to skimp on the turbos themselves.

[gtrboosting]

thats true what you say about skimping on the turbo's but DAYUM they are expensive lol

[WRRR]

thats true what you say about skimping on the turbo's but DAYUM they are expensive lol

Have a look at some of our forum sponsors,

A couple of Garrett 2860s will only set you back about $2200.

Believe me that can be only the start of the spend depending on how serious you are.

[Nismo_God]

well buying a gtr with already hiflowed turbos.....how much boost can i safely run through them???