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Frozenwaffles:

The insert for the coolant hose was loose on mine aswell. It took it to the exhaust shop and got them to spread it with a machine they have ever so slightly. Then put a heap of sealant on and it tapped in fairly easy with a rubber mallet. The nipple were pretty hard to get into my housing, but they did go in. Just make sure you use some thread tape. The bolts in my throttle body and a bit off. The bolts they supply don't fit so I dodgied up mine with some other bolts I had. Need to go over mine again and fix up the rough bits I rushed. Im working in a different state and was due to go back, so she was all rushed because I needed to shift the 33.

I forgot to add...

It wasn't a perfect casting. Only one major defect which was underneath where the cooling pipe bolts on. It has 6 bolts I think. They all went in except one because the cast hole was about 3mm out. I just used extra sealant and bolted the rest up. It hasn't leaked and runs sweet.

What were the ebay jobs going for?

Edited by M3ld
  • 4 months later...

In regards to the coolant bleed point....

Because the front facing plenum sits lower then where the radiator hose comes out of the plenum and re-joins the radiator... do you need to put the bleed point back in as the highest point would now be the radiator top tank and should bleed itself when running and filling with coolant

Correct me if I'm wrong but thats what I thought

i love it when people get caught taking credit for other peoples work: http://rb30det.info/?m=200902

i'd go at him with a bat mate lol.

how are the people who dont have a bleeder in their cars bleeding the system? im having issues getting it bled with a thermostat in.

isnt the top radiator tank the highest point in the cooling system now as opposed to the throttle body being the highest on the stock setup?

Correct me if im wrong but with the front facing plenum the radiator fill point should be the highest point and will bleed from there once the thermostat is open?

well because the thermostat's job is to trap coolant, air will find a way of getting trapped in there too which is why there is a coolant line coming from just behind the thermostat housing which leads directly to the bleeder.

But isnt that only till the thermostat opens and lets coolant pass through? So when coolant reaches temp and opens thermostat it will be possible to bleed the system

I relise this isnt the best way to do it but will work yeah? Have the plenum on just finishing a few things so just need to know if this way will work

im sure it will work but not very quickly...

now with no bleed valve my steps are:

[car off]

- fill up the radiator all the way with a sealed bottle on the end of the filler, fill the bottle half way and pump the top hose till the bubbles stop coming up (keep filling up the bottle so it has at least half of it full. then do the same with the bottom hose.

- turn the car on

- rev the car up and down to around 3000rpm every 30 sec or so till you get to operating temp.

- when you get to around 90-95 degrees switch the car off (95 deg is pretty much half way up the temp gauge, your car will normally sit around 2mm under the half way mark).

- leave the car off for around 30-40min till the temps go right down then repeat the steps again till you dont need to top it up anymore.

i usually go for a drive after ive filled it up the first time though.

hmmm my cars never hit 95 i dont think, Got PFC and the normal i usually get is 82 or so. Thermostat opens at 76 i think anyway so anything above that will be fine. Will try what u suggest, sounds like a good way to go about it

Cheers

  • 1 month later...

On an entirely different note , does anyone know the size of that big mother of a brass nipple on the bottom ??? i've got a powdercoated one and my threads are in imperial 0_o ...

  • 2 weeks later...

I am part way pulling it all to bits.

How does one get the bolts out that hold to two parts together under the plenum nearest the block?

Can one person do it or do you need two?

Any help would be much appreciated. Please PM.

Edited by 66yostagea
I am part way pulling it all to bits.

How does one get the bolts out that hold to two parts together under the plenum nearest the block?

Can one person do it or do you need two?

Any help would be much appreciated. Please PM.

by 'two parts together' do you mean the plenum and runners?

you need to get under the car and use a ratchet with a LONG 3/8" extension (because a 1/2" is too big/thick), what i did was feed 3 long extensions up one at a time because it was a little tight under the car.

p.s. be careful of the china copies guys, a mate of mine got one of these and i quickly noticed that the furthest front water galley in the plenum was non existent. we has to re-drill and de-burr it out. he was about to install it without checking so definitely get your gasket and make sure everything is where it should be.

OK its all out and partway back in. Thanks for the advice.

Have a bit I dont understand........"Use our bit of fuel line, and some ingenuity, and extend the water line to the nipple below" Where is this nipple hiding??

Also to the rear of the pipe being extended, there is a small pipe bent in a U shape. Is this some sort of bleeder or vent pipe?

OK its all out and partway back in. Thanks for the advice.

Have a bit I dont understand........"Use our bit of fuel line, and some ingenuity, and extend the water line to the nipple below" Where is this nipple hiding??

Also to the rear of the pipe being extended, there is a small pipe bent in a U shape. Is this some sort of bleeder or vent pipe?

read the instructions and look at the pics carefully mate. the 'nipple' is from the fuel rail that you had to trim. you clamp the 'nipple' (sawn off piece of fuel rail that you cut up earlier) and clamp it to the water hose.

what kind of material is the pipe? if you're talking about the one going around the back of the head, its the water feed to the turbo. otherwise, take some pics and we'll be able to identify it for you.

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