Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Absolutely excellent thread, well done, thank you, I know how much it slows down the process when you take pictures. But it sure helps us other guys attempting the same thing.

The RB25DET in the R33GTST is finished its forged internals rebuild and as part of that upgrade I grabbed one of these inexpensive Chineses copies. Since the head was already ported we had to port the manifold to match, which is a good idea anyway as the original casting didn't line up with the ports very well. The engine is on the engine stand so it will be a bit easier to fit it all up before it goes into the engine bay.

The only real difference to this installation is that I am using some RB26 top feed injectors that I had lying around. In fact that's the reason why I went for this manifold, it was cheaper than buying side feed injectors.

I have some questions;

In this picture you can see the water feed and return on the top of the throttle body. It would appear that you haven't connected them up to the water system. Did you simply leave them open (as they appear in the picture) or did you block them off? Or perhaps removed them entirely?

Plenum2%20004.JPG

Are you not concerned with freezing up of the throttle body on cold wet nights? It happened to us twice (Goulborne & Philip Island) when we where going there for a race meeting in winter.

At the front of the throttle body (you can see it in this picture) is a small vaccuum fitting which from memory is used for the carbon cannister. Did you use it for that or something else or just block it off?

PlenumInstall%20007.JPG

I noticed that you removed the washer bottle and ran the intercooler pipe throough the created vacant space, as per the following picture. Other installations I have seen use the GTR style hole in the side of the inner guard which allow the retention of the washer bottle in its normal location. I assume that you did it your way to eliminate the one extra bend in the intercooler pipe, or was there another reason?

Plenum2%20008.JPG

Merry Xmas

Gary

  • 1 month later...

umm yea. i have just done this to my ride.

now the car cranks but wont crank over (stay on and idle).

fuel seems to be getting into the fuel rail but not into the injectors and into the engine.

when the engine is ON, the pump wirrs and the fuel line goes tense...but u dont hear the hiss of the engine sucking up all that fuel..

multimeter was used and i have a circuit to all injectors...and i also have power to all injectors.

has this happened to anyone else....and what did u do.

p.s. i have checked all my hoses and electrics

Edited by r33cruiser

thought i should put some pics up

took me 3-4 afternoons workin on it after work

really the best mod ive ever done,

cost me around $500 all up including everything

before and after shots

cheers

Justin

post-29137-1201295185_thumb.jpg

post-29137-1201295284_thumb.jpg

Daym, just saw your post over a month later!(stupid email notification!)

I have some questions;

In this picture you can see the water feed and return on the top of the throttle body. It would appear that you haven't connected them up to the water system. Did you simply leave them open (as they appear in the picture) or did you block them off? Or perhaps removed them entirely?

Nope, left them open :D

Are you not concerned with freezing up of the throttle body on cold wet nights? It happened to us twice (Goulborne & Philip Island) when we where going there for a race meeting in winter.

Nah, not really. The car is garaged mostly, and in WA it doesn't get real cold >_<

At the front of the throttle body (you can see it in this picture) is a small vaccuum fitting which from memory is used for the carbon cannister. Did you use it for that or something else or just block it off?

I left it open too, but blocked off the little gallery under the TB.

I noticed that you removed the washer bottle and ran the intercooler pipe throough the created vacant space, as per the following picture. Other installations I have seen use the GTR style hole in the side of the inner guard which allow the retention of the washer bottle in its normal location. I assume that you did it your way to eliminate the one extra bend in the intercooler pipe, or was there another reason?

No other reason, pure lazyness haha :D

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...