Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gonna be a major teardown of R32. Next time Oscar, it's not a good idea to laugh when a $15000 bottom end lets go mate, not everything is a joke. Engine failure is serious stuff. Let's just say you've been very fortunate with your car. Looks like nothing to do with tune, just oil supply starvation from launching at 9200 with a stock sump. This bottom end is all going in the bin probably, I'm not just gonna chuck some bearings in and "she'll be right". Fab take note and be very careful what you choose to do to repair your 26.

Just finished discussions with the old man on which path to go down - HKS 2.8, OS 3L or keep a 2.7L capacity. 3L option is too much at $29k, HKS 2.8 is tempting for 800ps stage 2 but too much for stage 3 1200ps option right now, so it'll be a 2.7L capacity again.

On order first thing tomorrow is Trust sump extension, 86.5mm CP pistons/rings, crower rods, R33 GTR crank and R34 GTR block - all brand new from Perth where machining for block and balancing of crank will be done. Trust Dog box is going back in too.

Don't worry, I'll be back stronger than ever.

Edited by BK

How was the oil supply over looked when the engine was built to start with? I don't know much about 26's, although it'd be Russian roulette with nearly 5 times the factory power to happen reliably with the factory sump on any car. Seems like a good opportunity to see if there is anything else that could be improved.

What can I say?

I :whistling: LOVE carnage in my motorsport!!! Speedway is turning me into a sadistic prick.

There is nothing better than pushing a car or engine to its limits and beyond.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...ad-t257137.html

I thought that my RB would be the first in town to go pop considering the 2006 standard rebuild, standard cast pistons, 200+ HARD 1/4 passes with limiter launches, 2 burnout comp wins, wearing my 4 M/T's to the wire and peak holds of boost above 1.7 bar.

The only thing keeping it alive is the N1 oil pump, tomei oil restrictor, sump baffles, oil changes @ <100km and good luck!

On a serious note Ben call me if you want to sell your 16" wheels & M/T's $$$CASH

I reckon these with new bov's and a serious weight reduction I may be able to give the 10's a nudge.

wats up orderd a new r33 gtr crank bearings and rings ill get a new clutch as well were tearing this motor to a bare block clean evry thing make sure it dont happen again and run the bearing in proply so i can burn sum rubber at drags and get sum decent et down the strip its on ozzy wen its back on the road best burnout :):ermm:

You're right Kurt as at 7k rpm and above there is no oil left in the sump on a RB26, it's all in the head.

So $11000 and counting with the new build for the engine. Just got back from the rock, gotta pay for this new bottom end. Xspeed have machined and assembled the brand new 34 block, 33 GTR crank and 86.5mm CP pistons/rings and crower 74mm rods. All brand spankers so I'll have to run in a new engine from scratch. New kings bearings have gone in and most importantly, a TOMEI 1.5mm HEAD RESTRICTOR for the bloody oil issues. Have a Trust sump in the works too, which should cure the 9k + rpm limit. Will be boxed up on Monday so I sould see my brand new bottom end maybe next week. Still gotta pull the engine out still, which is a major mission on a GTR at nearly 400kg with transmission. I can't see this car being done for a couple of months though. HKS turbo is leaking on compressor side so that'll have to get serviced/resealed on the housing.

Oscar I'll see you some time on the weekend OK

Track is becoming a good place to hone your technique on getting the car down the track faster. New manifold is getting ordered this week. Gains from their design is said to be spooling 200-400rpm sooner and 6-15% more power. Can't wait.

Wouldn't you have already had a good manifold to mount a Trust T67 ? Was yours cracked ?

GTR engine and driveline is fully removed from blue car. Finished it about 2hours ago. New bottom end is assembled and sent. Anyone says they can remove an RB26 and transmission from a GTR in 2 - 4 hours as I've heard so much people talk shit about before I'll give em a grand to watch it happen. The GTR must be the worst car in history to work on for rebuilds, give me a RWD car anyday. The engines themselves are great though. I picked up Fabs gearbox to my chest on Friday by myself, try doing that with a GTR box and you'll be walking no more.

Trust manifold that is mounted to now would be a good design and quite nice for a more mild amount of boost. The stainless steel manifolds are quite well known to crack like mine has. So I have ordered a steam pipe manifold from Kyle at 6boost. This will ensure I will not have to replace it again as they come with a lifetime warranty against cracking or defects.

Good work on getting the motor and gearbox out.

Motor is apart totally. Whoever at Jakes performance let this engine go out like this is a bloody dropkick. Rings have bugger all tension (which would explain the engine breathing) and stock nissan main and big end bearings which have copped a hiding. Number 2 conrod bearing let go with number 3 on its way out. Conrod cap 4 and 5 were swapped around and get this, my engine mount bottom nuts were both gone ! Engine was just literally sitting in the car !

Bearing failure was not from oil supply issues at all, as they were not welded to the crank or conrod like Fabs. The car has just been absoluely hammered at a very high rpm for way too long before I bought it. Still going to address oil issues though, cause I ain't doing another rebuild on this car. Not in any hurry to get it back out drag racing, definitely be next year for the R32. I'll race the last night round in the v spec.

^^^^ sucks, but i suppose you gotta expect things like that when its someone else's project first. my car is looking more mismatched than ever....... but i think it has a nice drift pig look to it :D i might have to get out the spray can to match some panels up lol

Nothing a bit of time can't fix cam. You've been pretty patient so far so it should go pretty well.

No racing for me this weekend as my manifold hasn't arrived yet. I'll be out on the 13th if they still run that test and tune, if not then it'll be the following bracket.

I know what it's like to find engine mounts missing bolts BK, I found mine with one missing and the other only hanging on by a couple of threads. Last tome I allow someone else to work on my car. That is the main reason my manifold cracked, the twisting of the motor caused the wastegate pipe to hit the chassis rail while the engine and exhaust was a full temp causing the pipe to crack and split wide open. $1200 later I've got my problem fixed.

http://www.pfes.nt.gov.au/index.cfm?fuseac...y=2009&mo=8

Who is the 26yr old Skyline driver caught hooning last weekend?

Did they have proof or was it just a phone call from the public?

I would like to see the so called 'evidence'.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're not wrong, but more than a few times I've heard of people running into issues where their injector characterization isn't quite right and that approach works for that specific configuration but once they switch over to a new set they discover a whole bunch of stuff wasn't set up correctly. It's slightly more annoying to reverse engineer the OEM MAF transfer function but you already have the sensor wired up to the factory harness so keeping it around for a few weeks more while you figure out the tune is easy enough. I've seen GM also use a combination of both MAF + MAP in their ECUs before, MAF is for steady state and a calculation of the cylinder VE to correct the base VE table, then in transients it uses that calculated VE + raw MAP to determine cylinder filling somehow.
    • I know this one’s the BB one. My tuner did make mention about the actuator. I am curious about the VCT as well
    • Might also needs a stronger actuator with the right preloading. With older 2019 built bush G3 units, BB upgrade or 21U housing down size makes a pretty decent gain in response as well. 
    • Hey lads  so im finally putting together my rb30 forged bottom end and ran into an issue. I measured my main bearing clearance with arp main studs torqued to 60 ft-lbs using ACL H series STD size bearings and standard, un-ground crank shaft journals and got an oil clearance reading of about 1.3 thou measuring straight up and down and about 2.8 thou measuring at a 45 degree angle (just above and below the parting line). My machine shop said they measured the main tunnel and it was all within spec (they didnt say the actual measurement) and to go with a standard size bearing, which i have done and the clearance is too tight, I'm guessing because of the extra clamping force from the arp studs distorting the main tunnel. I was wanting to run about 2.5 thou main bearing clearance.  My questions are: 1. could i just use the HX extra 1 thou clearance ACL bearings? that would fix my straight up and down clearance making it about 2.3 thou, but then would the side to side clearance be too big at around 3.8 thou? 2. what actually is the recommended main bearing clearance for measuring near the parting line / side to side. i know its supposed to be bigger as the bearing has some eccentricity built into it but how much more clearance should there be compared to the straight up and down measurement? at the moment there is about 1.5thou difference, is that acceptable or should it be less? 3. If i took the engine block + girdle back to the machine shop and got them to line bore the main tunnel (like i told them to do the first time, but they said it didnt need it) what bearing size would i buy? the STD size bearing shells already slide in fairly easily with no real resistance, some even falling out if i tip the girdle up-side-down. If im taking material out of the main tunnel would i need a bearing with extra material on the back side to make up for it? this is probably confusing af to read so if something doesn't make sense let me know and ill try explaining in a different way. My machine shop doesn't come back from christmas break until mid January, hence why i'm asking these questions here. TIA for any help or info 
    • I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like!   I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard 
×
×
  • Create New...