Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey guys I have a question. I am keen to have my ecu rechipped, with nistune

but I also have a ecutalk v2 display, I was wondering if the 2 were

compatible and if my ecutalk display would still work after having nistune installed.

I have done several searches on google and various forums and I have been unable to find any info. :laugh:

any help would go a long way thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5170133
Share on other sites

hey ppl, might be a silly question but does nistune use an afm?? eg, if wanting to upgrade to a z32afm, is it needed or not??

cheers

If someone was to make a map sensor replacement module for the nistune/stock ecu would there be much interest in something like this?

It can certainly be built but if theres no interest I won't bother researching it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5170937
Share on other sites

already looked into this. Should be very simple, read in map sensor values read in air temp sensor add correction factor output 0 - 5v signal back to the ecu. Main thing would be the need for a complete retune of entire map, but this effort could be minimized with extensive logging of afm and map values in parallel(Similar to the holden MAFless tunes). I believe some one has also used TPS as loading on an NA Vl commodore using nistune

Edited by Crans
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5170950
Share on other sites

Yep if you did no correction and just made sure it was linear in the range used from 0-5v it would still be very easy to tune.

Ah so many ideas and so little time. Need to get my car running and buy a decent oscilloscope so I can finish the VCT controller I've been carrying on about.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5171022
Share on other sites

Hey guys I have a question. I am keen to have my ecu rechipped, with nistune

but I also have a ecutalk v2 display, I was wondering if the 2 were

compatible and if my ecutalk display would still work after having nistune installed.

I have done several searches on google and various forums and I have been unable to find any info. :P

any help would go a long way thanks.

I can confirm my ecutalk v2 display (and 1.3.x windows software) work fine in my nistune'd R32 GTR. love the new 2.02 firmware with the user-configurable alarms and am gagging for the eventual logging to micro-sd.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5173040
Share on other sites

hey guys i just bought a r32 gts4 and was thinking of doing the nistune upgrade for the ecu, but i want to change it to a manual as well. would i need to get a manual ecu or a gtr ecu? or would it be fine once the daughterboard is installed? don't wanna upgrade then find out i need a new ecu lol.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5175332
Share on other sites

the daughterboard can be reprogrammed for different ROM images. bascially we can put a manual program in auto ECU no problems

GTR ECU is completely different you wont be needing that in a GTS-4 unless doing an RB26 transplant with twin AFMs

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5176244
Share on other sites

Are the daughterboards for 32GTSt and 32GTR the same?

Reason I am asking is I am looking at Nistuning my 32gtst but if I max out my z32 afm, I am wondering if I can swap the daughterboard in to a 32GTR ECU and get a GTR image loaded on there ? (and then run a GTR engine harness and twin afm's)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5176335
Share on other sites

Wanting to buy a board and tunning package to have a play with.

Any one else using it? What do you think f it?

How do you buy it? Ive sent emails no one answers

I bought and installed my Nistune daughterboard direct from the guys that make it.

It is installed in my S13, and was tuned by Mark @ MRC dyno in castle hill. I haven't had any issues with it, and for the price i think it is an excellent option.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5176539
Share on other sites

got a question for ya's

i have a type 4 daughter board in my r34.

I know that the daughter board has its own EEPROM that we can change the values in while tuning in nistune software. And the original ECU's EEPROM stays unchanged, we just tell the ECU to read from our new EEPROM. Is this correct?

If this is correct, could i tune my car on pump fuel 98, then take the hex file from the daughter board's EEPROM and burn it into the original ECU's EEPROM, then re-tune the daughter board as usual on e85 fuel? then i just have to run a couple of switch wires from the jumper pins on the original ECU to the dash and i have instant capability to drive on either fuel.

But is it even possible to burn a new image into the original ECU?

and can anyone see any major flaws in my idea?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181930-nistune/page/11/#findComment-5176589
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is lower price now given apparently nobody wants these or needs them. It's 550 but if someone sees it on SAU and wants to make an offer, please do so.
    • LS is a good motor, but it hurts my soul when I see it in a RB. Guess it fixes the oiling issues lol.
    • I'm confused. Does this qualify as "Gregging" or are you somehow avoiding the Gregging?
    • More assembly going on, with all sorts of "bolt right on bro" scenarios going on here. Smartly, PTV clearance was checked. And I say smartly because it turns out that the intake was 0.009" from piston meeting valve. This is 0.23mm. This is very not okay. A fast meeting was facilitated between engine builder in Australia and engine builder in the USA which was actually incredibly helpful and constructive actually, various ideas thrown around to get around this issue including: 1) Retard the cam timing which would have brought the exhaust valve closer to meeting piston (it was 0.065") which was uncomfortably close to begin with, and change the cam profile making it 'laggier' 2) Much larger head gaskets which would reduce compression, but half the point of this was to increase compression. 3) New set of pistons ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) 4) All of the above 5) Get ghetto The concept is you get sticky sandpaper and stick it back to a valve, slightly larger than the valve you/I'm using, like say from a LS3/rectangle port head. You now have a very super advanced flycutting tool to modify your pistons in your block. Then you install it in your head, and attach the other end of the head to a drill. Then you just replicate your valve smashing into a piston with your spinning drill.   This is the result. Repeat many times. It is strongly recommended you have some kind of fixed stop when doing this for extremely obvious reasons because if you press too hard then you're well into apocalyptic repercussion land. The minimum clearance on the intake valve is now 0.075" this is still in the "Too close to be really comfortable" and into "It should be fine" land. Supposedly in the real world the clearances will be slightly bigger. Guess this is what happens when people push envelopes for N/A engines instead of adding boost! Time to move onto the new, upgraded, higher ratio roller rockers from Yellaterra, all tapped and threaded with a stronger bolt for better stability. Very nice. Lets see how they fit. For f**ks sake. Time to bring the grinder out for these aftermarket, machined and CNC'd heads. Looks like the new, beefier rocker from YellaTerra has gone from Bolt on part to "Bolt on part". Well, lets see how this bolt on crank scraper and windage tray goes then, shall we? There actually is more clearance than they specify for this thing, but seeing it all move as you check it is terrifying when you see it all so very very very very nearly hit things. But after all, this is what the item is designed to do after all and actually did bolt on perfectly and have enough clearance to everything and some very clear and direct instructions. So +1 to Improved Racing I suppose. As above with the windage tray on. Photo of breaker bar wonkiness for added lols. Next up: Oil pump/front cover/water pump/sump and then it's time to actually install the heads, pushrods, head bolts, valve cover gaskets and such is all there and ready to go. (except the oil pump bolts which were previously longer for more clearance with the previously perfectly installed double row timing chain). There's definitely a sense that someone other than us has been here before and done everything perfectly, or at least considered it and came up with working solutions. Perhaps the previous cam was 6deg advanced to avoid PTV issues with the milled stock heads? In any case when I attempt to sell this stuff the buyers are going to be very directly informed.
    • my catch can is pretty easy to empty but it overflows due to the blowby/crank case pressure etc. max I have drained is ~600ml even with a ~2.3L capacity. So it is not just about having to drain it out its the mess it makes down the firewall and under the car and rear passenger tyre from the overflow oil being blasted by screamer + air in general. Ending up on the ground cleaning the oil up and having oil on your arms when everyone else can chill and watch the other sessions gets old fast
×
×
  • Create New...