Jump to content
SAU Community

Mobile Stud Removal

lineskee 33

By lineskee 33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

lineskee 33 Community Regular

lineskee 33

Posted
Posted

Hi everyone,

I was lucky enough to snap the last stud when removing my exhaust manifold last night. I had a search around and i couldnt find anyone who could do this locally.

Just wondering if anyone knew of a service in the Capalaba/ Brisbane area that could come out to my house and remove the broken stud? If anyone knows a company name or number i could call it would be much appreciated.

I would really like to do it myself but i would probly lose my temper trying to get to it with a drill.

Thanks in advance

David :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
lineskee 33 Community Regular

lineskee 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well all i have come to the stage where i am in desperate need to get this broken stud out of my block. I have heard all the great things about "threadtech" but i cannot manage to get a hold of the person. i have been provided both phone and mobile number and they both ring out and go to message bank. i have left multiple messages and called multiple times. Im sure its a great company from all the good reviews i have heard from this person but i need this stud out before my car goes in to be tuned this friday. I was wondering if anyone knows of any other company that can provide the same service of coming out to my house and removing the stud?

Any help would be greatly appreciated because i am at wits end trying to get this stud out. i have also managed to try an easy out tool and it managed to snap in the centre of the broken stud. please help. thanks in advance

david

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
Posted

go to bunnings, go to the tool section and ask them for one of those tools that remove snapped studs, forget what is called, but it costs like 12 bucks, and get a drill bit too, think its like 6mm u need, costs like 8 bucks, then drill a hole into the stud, stick in the tool and it will slowley bring it out, if that fails, get a 10.25mm drill bit, bore out the hole, tap in a new thread, put in a helicoil thread, then ya new bolt. i had to do it to mine couple weeks ago, easily done, but if its not at the front of the engine u will need to get a right angle converter for your drill, costs liek 15 bucks at bunnings. hope that helps, if not, pay someone 100 bucks to do it for u

Link to comment
Share on other sites
The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
go to bunnings, go to the tool section and ask them for one of those tools that remove snapped studs, forget what is called, but it costs like 12 bucks, and get a drill bit too, think its like 6mm u need, costs like 8 bucks, then drill a hole into the stud, stick in the tool and it will slowley bring it out, if that fails, get a 10.25mm drill bit, bore out the hole, tap in a new thread, put in a helicoil thread, then ya new bolt. i had to do it to mine couple weeks ago, easily done, but if its not at the front of the engine u will need to get a right angle converter for your drill, costs liek 15 bucks at bunnings. hope that helps, if not, pay someone 100 bucks to do it for u

The problem with that is that he has snapped said tool inside the hole he already drilled. Any attempt to drill it out from now on will usually result in a blunt drill bit. You will need to get thread tech to do it. 1300 THREAD

Link to comment
Share on other sites
lineskee 33 Community Regular

lineskee 33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Does anyone else have this much trouble getting onto threadtech at all? I already have gone down the path of going to bunnings and purchasing a drill, drill bits, angled chuck, multiple sized stud removal tools. the stud gets a daily shower in wd40 and an angry eyeing off by the owner. and i dont like my chances of even getting a welder to fit in there.

i want threadtech to get this thing out as i cannot find anyone else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wrxhoon Grand Master

wrxhoon

Posted
Posted

You will have to try and get this easyout bit out before you can do anything . If you manage to get this bit out its not very difficult as long as you have an oxy torch .

You will have to heat the area then use the easyout and she will come , careful do not get carried away with the oxy because the cyl head is alloy, dont melt it . If you don't have oxy or any experience with oxy try normal lp gas but it may not work with that . CARE should be taken when using flame to make sure no fuel is around especialy in a closed garage . You maybe better off letting some expert to take it out .

If you stuffed the thread , don't worry they can drill a bigger hole and then use a helicoil .

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GOR33 Mentor

GOR33

Posted
Posted

ohhh i see, i didnt really read before i posted lol

i snapped mine easyout too thing in there too, there realy weak why is that? i just bought a decent drill bit, put heaps of oil on it a drilled at a really slow constant speed, and it worked

Link to comment
Share on other sites
SmittyR33 Contributor

SmittyR33

Posted
Posted

Definitely grab the reverse drill bit and give it a go as I had a broken studs on a few types of heads and in most cases the drill will bite at some point and wind the sucker strait out. Then again I never had an easy out broken off in there either. Take it easy and be carfull with that alloy!!! Good luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...