Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

I seem to have a little problem with a fuel leak..

For a while now my car hasnt been moving due to an over fuelling isse. the other day i decided to re-assemble things since im waiting for parts for a new motor and tried to start the car, it did its usual thing of starting for the first time and then not starting the second.

only this time fuel started pissing out of the top fuel filter hose, even during ignition and fuel pump priming.

i checked the return line for a block but it seems fine.

any ideas?

could the fuel pump cause this? or relay?

thanks

John

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181998-fuel-leak/
Share on other sites

It'll be perished/damaged hose, loose hose clamp, or damaged bit of pipe on the filter. I'm assuming the stock high pressure filter in the engine bay? Worst case a blocked reg, but you'd need a pump capable of pushing 100+ psi into the system to burst good condition efi fuel hose.

If it's spitting fuel out it indicates pressure so these nothing wrong with pump or wiring.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181998-fuel-leak/#findComment-3304858
Share on other sites

forgot to mention if your braided hose still uses worm drive camps with the little covers then it is just regular rubber hose with a sheath slid over it. the stuff the guys above were calling 'proper' hose is usually teflon line with stainless braid which uses screw type fittings (ie no worm drive clamps anywhere).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181998-fuel-leak/#findComment-3305906
Share on other sites

took the hose of it was slightly split on the inside, just cut it shorter and its fine.

the hose im using is plastic not teflon lined, its still "proper" hose :rolleyes: and suits the application. It doesnt use a any threaded ends though :D but isnt necessary anyway.

I was sort of hoping that would be related to the over fueling issue, ill try replace the FPR now there's a weird noise coming from there during ignition..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181998-fuel-leak/#findComment-3306140
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meanwhile, 20+ years ago, I pulled out the 105mm hole saw and went straight down through the inner guard in front of the airbox to get my stormwater pipe cold air intake in. Right behind the two stock holes for the intercooler pipes. Those have no reinforcement (apart from a couple of robust pieces of steel pipe through them!). I feel that the Australian vehicle standards crews put way too much emphasis on "maintaining the crash performance" of cars and not enough consideration of "any crash is a new and wonderful experiment with a random selection of parameters and you will never be able to tell if an extra 80mm hole through some sheet metal caused a significant difference...but if you close your eyes and squint at the whole structure, engage your engineering brain and have a good think about it, you'd have to expect that it would do jack all."
    • You guys are focussing on the wrong part of this post and have headed off on an irrelevant tangent!  Clearly I'm not going to put my most prized physical possession (well it will be once I'm finished it...) on a piece of shit contraption that might fail and crush me or my car!  At no point was that even implied I was trying to buy a butchered P.O.S that some shonky clown had thrown together with a gasless MIG....  Either way I would love to see the build quality of a rotisserie that has failed.  Actually I'd love to see a photo of one that has failed full stop.  Google fails to deliver.  Never happened?? I'll either make one that won't fail or will buy one that wouldn't fail! End Post.....
    • Yeah, if you can't breathe for more than about 2 minutes, you're cooked.
    • Well, all the power should be getting dissipated across the starter motor. Therefore, ideally, the voltage drop across the earth lead should be convincingly close to zero. Certainly you'd want it to be only a volt or so at max, because otherwise that volt doesn't turn up at the starter to do what is required. A car can probably survive a bad enough earth to crank and start with only 9V or so at the starter motor, maybe even a bit less. But you're seeing only 8V at the battery terminals when cranking, so there can't even be that much available over at the starter, which simply won't do. I would have thought that you couldn't pull enough current (with a healthy starter) to make the battery drop to 8V locally. But I was ignoring the possibility that the starter is in fact crook. If it has shorted windings (or maybe the solenoid is borked and shorting to earth) then I guess it could pull a stack of current and not even look like wanting to turn over. So follow the other boys' reccos too. Because they are just as likely at this point.  
    • Depending where the whole gets drilled, and what country/state you're talking about, quite likely not.   Under ole vehicle mod rules in NSW, VSI06 allowed for drilling of holes in "non structural" areas. So you could drill a hole through the inner guard, and not need engineering. You couldn't drill over seams, and it was advised to add extra reinforcing around the hole, as well as something to protect from sharp edges.   Again, it's all about finding the documentation for where the mod is to be done, AND then being able to explain the situation, with the documentation as to why you don't need engineering, with a positive attitude, to any one of the likes eg, police, vehicle inspector, etc.
×
×
  • Create New...