Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

yesterday when i was driving home from work down North East Road, near Gilles Plains i was driving along side a skyline.

It was a white R33 series 2, stock wheels, no mods.

What made me look twice at the car was the rear number plate, it was a normal number plate but had different letters & numbers stuck over the original numbers & letters.

Only noticed it from the joins, looked to be the type that anyone could pick up from hardware store.

So in driving past i noted the plate & checked the front which was an entirely different plate number.

Car pulled off at this time and was unable to get the last 3 digits of the front plate, so police were not interested in these details.

If there's a legitimate reason for this and your on this forum then i apologize but seemed to me quite fishy.

Car was spotted around gilles plains / holden hill area.

If you spot this car take note of front & rear plates & report it to police.

I have rear plate number which is obviosly not the correct plate, if you think you see it pm me & i can confirm this detail for you.

Can't gaurantee theres anything more to it, but thought i would get you all to keep an eye out.

Thanks

Travis

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por qué no los dos? Body colour red with black stripes down centre, onto bonnet and bootlid.
    • From my bolts, standard M8 with 1.25mm thread pitch (M8x1.25mm).    Length is 19mm under the head and has a captive 18mm OD flat washer.   20mm length from a bolt shop is what you'll be able to get.   Make sure they're zinc plated.    If you're concerned about strength, grade 8.8 will be more than enough. Original PN is 01121-04971.  Now discontinued according to Amayama but that's because it's one of the parts that's been captured by the Heritage program, which explains the ridiculous price.   New PN is 01121-RHR20: https://nismodirect.com/nismo-heritage-bolt-pin-hinge-hood-bnr32-nissan-skyline-gt-r-01121-rhr20-01121-04971/ About AUD33 converted from Yen in the above link but that's just one example. Interesting that the hinge-to-body bolts are still available non-heritage.....PN 08116-8161G around $2 each (amayama).    Same thread but 16mm long.
    • Well, if that filter was impeding fluid flow, then it could have similar effects to faulty solenoids. The TCU will register a fault when it does something (ie, changes the state of a solenoid) and does not detect the required result. If there are other causes that can make the same lack of result, then they will be indistinguishable to the expected cause for which the TCU has a code.
    • Yellowjackets, red ones, blue ones (other than Splitfire) have all been demonstrated to be unreliable on turbo engines. That unreliability can be anything from outright failure (ie, 4 out of a set of 6 working out of the box) to just not being strong enough for the task, on a boosted engine. Not enough of us care about NA engines to know whether that unreliability is an issue for the undemanding needs of an NA RB20. I should think though that the DIS-008 should fit the 20. There's not really any reason for the head/coil mounting area to be any different on those 2 Neos. I wouldn't be buying Splitfires, or any other old tech coilpack, for a car in this day and age though. I would buy modern pencil coils and do what needs to be done to adapt them to the loom. That's relatively trivial these days, with numerous kits for fitting R35, or Audi, or Yaris/Corolla coils.
    • Keen to see how much work is needed to get an abandoned Skyline going. My R32 has been sitting idle for three years or so but finally got some time to get it going again. (Also lurking SAU and trying to hit 10 posts so I can start my own intro thread with pics)
×
×
  • Create New...