Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well end of this year im moving upto bris from adelaide.

Need a bit of help. Just wondering exactly whats involved with changing over a car from interstate.

I have a 99wrx, just a exhaust, pod and boost controller.

And my 33gtst Pic of engine bay is in my avatar,

Main things that are obvious are:

Highmount gt3040

q45 afm

avcr (can only see the solenoid in the engine bay)

power fc (cant be seen but its there)

bov

kn pod

fmic

38mm external gate with screamer (can see it from underneath the car)

lowered

I have full rebuild with tonnes more goodies but these are the obvious ones

I realise im goin to have to plumb the screamer back in, what else am i goin to need to change, the car is very quiet at idle and when off boost so no probs there.

just wondering what exaclty the process is and what will i need to change to get the car rego changed to qld

Edited by sinistagtst
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182078-moving-upto-bris/
Share on other sites

yeh thanks, i actually bought my car up there 3 1/2 years ago from brisbane street machines. Also where is the best place to go up there for skyline tunes. Im putting out 260rwkw atm but will be closer to 300rwkw very shortly so i dont want anyone dodgy.

yeah like they said u need a RWC, registration application and ur rego notice ( save u from stamp duty) just those 3 paperwork and got my QLD plates.....I did mine last week WA to QLD took 10mins to process and thats it. just have to pay rego.

cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Edited by sinistagtst
cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Im pretty sure they dont look at mods just mainly safety issues like you have mentioned.

yeh thanks, i actually bought my car up there 3 1/2 years ago from brisbane street machines. Also where is the best place to go up there for skyline tunes. Im putting out 260rwkw atm but will be closer to 300rwkw very shortly so i dont want anyone dodgy.

For tuning i take mine to Stafford tune or there is PITS on the Gold coast who has a very good name but is pricey and Godzilla motorsports.

cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Yes a eye level brake light is required.

paperwork and roady, piece of piss

if u need a 'leanient' one, i know this indian bloke...:D

haha ur dad is indian..? i didnt knw he had a RWC licence..?

cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

yes ull need a eyelevel.. if it wasnt fitted during compliance dw.. ull be fine..

paperwork and roady, piece of piss

if u need a 'leanient' one, i know this indian bloke...;)

Is he mobile? I used one that is mobile, supposed to be a bit soft and he was thorough enough, all the important stuff anyway.

Is he mobile? I used one that is mobile, supposed to be a bit soft and he was thorough enough, all the important stuff anyway.

nah, he's down redbank way. has a lil garage off the side of a caltex servo down there

er, they won't give you a rwc unless u have an engineer certificate for the highmount.. and maybe the front mount. You really need to contact a RWC guy, but I have a feeling they're going to say "you'll need an engineers certificate first".

WTF^^^^^ can anyone confirm this has anyone changed a car over from interstate with similar mods to mine

Never heard of of that one i have a high mount and FMIC and i got a RWC with no engineers certificate. Maybe it depends on who you go to.

Depends what mechanic you go to. I doubt most of them would even know if the turbo is standard or not. I honestly don't think you will have trouble getting your car registered here. As mentioned above, all you need to get is a $57 certificate saying your car is roadworthy. For this they mainly check for tyres, brakes, lights and hazards, oil leaks and other minor things. Turbo, computer etc won't even get looked at. The guy that gave me my road worthy thought that some r33 gtst's came with standard front mount intercoolers. And he is the owner of a decent tuning shop in brisbane with some very nice cars in it. All the best, and if you do run into trouble, I know a few people that can give you a roadworthy, providing of course that your car is in decent nick, not a pig.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...