Jump to content
SAU Community

Moving Upto Bris

sinistaGTR

By sinistaGTR,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
Posted (edited)

well end of this year im moving upto bris from adelaide.

Need a bit of help. Just wondering exactly whats involved with changing over a car from interstate.

I have a 99wrx, just a exhaust, pod and boost controller.

And my 33gtst Pic of engine bay is in my avatar,

Main things that are obvious are:

Highmount gt3040

q45 afm

avcr (can only see the solenoid in the engine bay)

power fc (cant be seen but its there)

bov

kn pod

fmic

38mm external gate with screamer (can see it from underneath the car)

lowered

I have full rebuild with tonnes more goodies but these are the obvious ones

I realise im goin to have to plumb the screamer back in, what else am i goin to need to change, the car is very quiet at idle and when off boost so no probs there.

just wondering what exaclty the process is and what will i need to change to get the car rego changed to qld

Edited by sinistagtst
Link to comment
Share on other sites
sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeh thanks, i actually bought my car up there 3 1/2 years ago from brisbane street machines. Also where is the best place to go up there for skyline tunes. Im putting out 260rwkw atm but will be closer to 300rwkw very shortly so i dont want anyone dodgy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
MyR3408 Enthusiast

MyR3408

Posted
Posted

yeah like they said u need a RWC, registration application and ur rego notice ( save u from stamp duty) just those 3 paperwork and got my QLD plates.....I did mine last week WA to QLD took 10mins to process and thats it. just have to pay rego.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Edited by sinistagtst
Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Im pretty sure they dont look at mods just mainly safety issues like you have mentioned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
yeh thanks, i actually bought my car up there 3 1/2 years ago from brisbane street machines. Also where is the best place to go up there for skyline tunes. Im putting out 260rwkw atm but will be closer to 300rwkw very shortly so i dont want anyone dodgy.

For tuning i take mine to Stafford tune or there is PITS on the Gold coast who has a very good name but is pricey and Godzilla motorsports.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

Yes a eye level brake light is required.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
markimak Grand Master

markimak

Posted
Posted
paperwork and roady, piece of piss

if u need a 'leanient' one, i know this indian bloke...:D

haha ur dad is indian..? i didnt knw he had a RWC licence..?

cool who does your rwc and what do they look for is it just like,leaks, tyres, brakes do they look at mods. The car is clean as in that respect just all the crap hanging off the engine im worried about.

And do you need an eye level brake light, i have a stealth lip but no eyelevel brake light in it.

yes ull need a eyelevel.. if it wasnt fitted during compliance dw.. ull be fine..

Link to comment
Share on other sites
GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted
paperwork and roady, piece of piss

if u need a 'leanient' one, i know this indian bloke...;)

Is he mobile? I used one that is mobile, supposed to be a bit soft and he was thorough enough, all the important stuff anyway.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
shanef Grand Master

shanef

Posted
Posted
Is he mobile? I used one that is mobile, supposed to be a bit soft and he was thorough enough, all the important stuff anyway.

nah, he's down redbank way. has a lil garage off the side of a caltex servo down there

Link to comment
Share on other sites
predator Grand Master

predator

Posted
Posted

er, they won't give you a rwc unless u have an engineer certificate for the highmount.. and maybe the front mount. You really need to contact a RWC guy, but I have a feeling they're going to say "you'll need an engineers certificate first".

Link to comment
Share on other sites
subzeroR33 Mentor

subzeroR33

Posted
Posted
WTF^^^^^ can anyone confirm this has anyone changed a car over from interstate with similar mods to mine

Never heard of of that one i have a high mount and FMIC and i got a RWC with no engineers certificate. Maybe it depends on who you go to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PWND Grand Master

PWND

Posted
Posted

Depends what mechanic you go to. I doubt most of them would even know if the turbo is standard or not. I honestly don't think you will have trouble getting your car registered here. As mentioned above, all you need to get is a $57 certificate saying your car is roadworthy. For this they mainly check for tyres, brakes, lights and hazards, oil leaks and other minor things. Turbo, computer etc won't even get looked at. The guy that gave me my road worthy thought that some r33 gtst's came with standard front mount intercoolers. And he is the owner of a decent tuning shop in brisbane with some very nice cars in it. All the best, and if you do run into trouble, I know a few people that can give you a roadworthy, providing of course that your car is in decent nick, not a pig.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      RB gearbox options

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      What makes you say CD009 boxes are not as strong as you would think? I've always been told the last revision (CD00A) is good for 1000whp and I have no issue's believing it when comparing one side by side with an RB25 box. Makes them look tiny. 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      I picked up an open Center with shafts. I was told the Open shafts will fit a mechanical LSD and looking at them. I think they will work. Will update 
    • OO Dan OO
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By OO Dan OO · Posted

      The manual says a lot about the different ratios requiring different shafts. all the Centers are the same but depending on the ratio, this determines the shafts because different ratios need the center to be offset more or less or right to left.
    • r32-25t
      Nismo 1.5 way Stub axle issue

      By r32-25t · Posted

      those 2 sets of shafts will not interchange and if you’re lucky you haven’t damaged anything with all your pressing and bashing you said you’ve done 
    • TurboTapin
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By TurboTapin · Posted

      Freshly built stroked RB25/28. Motor runs great but consumes a lot more oil then It should. This summer with the heat I was consuming roughly a quart per 1800-2000kms. Now with the cold weather coming in, I'm consuming a quart per 1000kms which is no bueno. I had originally chalked this out to break in taking a little longer then it should, but I'm now around 4000km's on this engine. I think it's fair to say something isn't quite right. Here's the kicker, can't find what's causing it. I've also spoken to my engine builder and Precision Turbo and can't figure it out. Here's my train of thought on possible causes and what I've done.  Precision Turbo - I originally started thinking my oil pressure might be a tad too high for my 6466 Gen2. I took the center cartridge out, and while yes there's signs of oil on the turbine heatshield, it's very moderate. There's also very minor in/out play that concerns me. I sent pictures and videos to precision and they said the residue and in/out play is minimal and they doubt this is the issue. For piece of mind, I went ahead and installed a Turbosmart OPR V2 to bring oil pressure down. Made no difference. Precision is willing to take it in on RMA for an inspection and I'll probably take them up on that offer for peace of mind. BTW. Is it just me or does the turbines inducer's look clipped and not even between each other? I just noticed this now while posting and looking at the picture zoomed in. Might just be the picture...  Rings - Hot compression test and leak down test look good. Compression is 160 +-2psi across the board. I leak down at 16% on cyl 1,2,3,5,6 and 18% on cyl4. Keep in mind I have a snap on leak down tester and they read high (I.E, 15% on my wifes 2018 Sentra with 70000kms). Sparkplugs show minimal oil (Only #4 seems to have a tad). At a quart per 1000km's though, I would be expecting them to be wet. Here's the kicker, I run WMI. I'm thinking what if my compression rings are great, but I have an oil control ring issue on cyl4 and my WMI is steam cleaning the pistons and sparkplugs? I can still see the "Spool" logo on top of my CP pistons. The only time I see smoke out of the exhaust is in the high rpm/load range. So far, this is my main culprit. I'll probably turn off my WMI and go out with the car at spring pressure tomorrow and repull the plugs. Other thing that's strange though is that I have never seen any oil in my catch can. Thing is still dry after 4000kms. Cyl1 - Left, Cyl6 - Right. Valve seals - They're new and I would expect oil consumption on idle, first cold start or during decel. None of which is happening.  Crankcase pressure - I have 2x 10an valve cover lines to a vented catch can. Head drain and opened up internal oil drain paths. I also don't run E85. I've never seen any oil in my catch can. Doubtful this is causing any issues.  Rear main seal - I have no visible leaks, but figured maybe it was my rear main seal. After now having added 2-3 quarts, I would expect oil to leak out the bottom drain channel and/or my clutch to be slipping.  Let me know your thoughts. With winter coming and taking the car off the road until spring, I'm fine with pulling the motor apart but I would hate to take it all apart and the turbo was the issue in the end.   
×
×
  • Create New...