Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got my new zorst put on today for my 33GTR, its 3.5inch all the way with no cat.

Compared to my old sound, my car sounds reallllyyyy dirtily loud !

The only thing is, when i gun, it will get to a point where it will have that weird 'barking' sound of a loud exhaust.....

does anyone know wat this could mean possibly?

Stock GTR.

Maybe it needs a tune? And I have sorta reason to believe that it happens only when the second turbo kicks in?....

thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182099-new-zorst/
Share on other sites

My GTR has a 3.5 inch hi flow cat with HKS exhaust and Apexi pods.

When you put the boot into it and then change gears the bov makes a loud bark sound back through the pods.

It sounds so much like a dog that when people first come for a ride they keep looking around for a dog in the back of a ute and do not realise that it is the bov.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182099-new-zorst/#findComment-3306755
Share on other sites

does this sound correspond with the point of full boost or slightly prior to that?

could be the change of sounds found when teh exhaust gas leaves via the wastegate ports and is no longer modified by passing through the turbine wheels.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182099-new-zorst/#findComment-3306907
Share on other sites

Slighty prior to full boost Craved. Wat does this mean?

Im going to go to zorst shop tomoro and put a resanator in - that might help

sounds like its just changing the sounds when the gates open, which is normal -- if you dont like it then what your doing is exactly what you need to do - put a resonator in.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182099-new-zorst/#findComment-3306930
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...