Wiring/alarm Question

[groonsnout]

G'day All,

I've just fitted a pretty flash alarm to my S1 RS4 with remote start etc.. and it all works great EXCEPT the alarm requires a source to splice into which provides 12V once the engine is running to stop the ignition sequence. The obvious source was the alternator so I wired it into there, but the alternator provides voltage so quickly that it only gets the chance to turn over about twice before cutting the starter. This works great when the engine is warm, but when cold, or has been sitting, it requires a couple of extra turns to get firing and the alarm kills the starter before it's fully kicked over.

So which wire would give 12V when the engine is fully up and going? The manual suggests wrapping it around the coil (or coil pack I guess) but that seems messy. I assume there would be a signal wire coming back from a relay somewhere under the bonet? A charging regulator? Any ideas at all?

or is there any way of putting something in line like a big capacitor or similar from the alternator to delay the power through the wire?

Sorry, I'm far from an electrical guru!

Thanks for any help

[munchstagea]

Hi Michael,

Sorry I don't have an answer for you but just wanted to say congrats on getting an alarm in there yourself! I tried and failed then sent to the experts, and it took them 8 hours to get the job done so I think you've done pretty well.

Did you manage to tap into the existing central locking system? That was the main issue we had and so did the installer, they ended up sticking an extra motor in the drivers door to run it (and tried to tell me there wasn't one in there already).

Maybe a relay off the starter motor? Not sure if that makes sense though as it would be 12v live whenever the starter was not cranking???

Get over to the Car Audio and Security section, some good advise in there, look for Chris Rogers, he is usually a great help where he can be.

Cheers

Luke

[jasevr4]

What about the stereo's constant 12v wire?

[groonsnout]

What about the stereo's constant 12v wire?

12V constant would mean the starter would never kick over.. I need 12V only when the engine is running, not when the ignition is on/off etc.. hmmn..!

It was a bit of work, I swapped over the drivers door motor as it wouldn't properly trigger on negative, but that was only $10.. but lots of wiring!

[66yostagea]

Perhaps a small timing device to delay signal. Something like a turbo timer?

[Chris Rogers]

12V constant would mean the starter would never kick over.. I need 12V only when the engine is running, not when the ignition is on/off etc.. hmmn..!

It was a bit of work, I swapped over the drivers door motor as it wouldn't properly trigger on negative, but that was only $10.. but lots of wiring!

entirely too much effort. 5 min with a soldering iron fixes that bit.

clarify what you are asking please.

[groonsnout]

entirely too much effort. 5 min with a soldering iron fixes that bit.

clarify what you are asking please.

Just for a wire which delivers 12V ONLY while the engine is running, not when it's stopped or starting or the ignition is on, ONLY when running..

[Chris Rogers]

so you are doing a remote start??

[groonsnout]

so you are doing a remote start??

I thought this was pretty obvious in my first post - that's the whole reason I need the source wire. The remote start works great already but just needs a slightly longer trigger to get going when it's really cold (canberra cold).

[Chris Rogers]

do it off RPM. that way the car is up to idle before it shuts down. most of them have this feature and crank times on the starter anyway so they can be varied. if you look up a 33 power FC pinout it will give you the RPM sig. from memory its yel/red on the cluster.

[groonsnout]

do it off RPM. that way the car is up to idle before it shuts down. most of them have this feature and crank times on the starter anyway so they can be varied. if you look up a 33 power FC pinout it will give you the RPM sig. from memory its yel/red on the cluster.

thanks chris sounds like the go. out of interest, if it's the yellow/red coming into the ECU, where does that signal come from under the engine bay? or is it coming OUT of the ecu to the tacho? just thinking of an under bonnet connection if possible, but really not a problem to run it across to the ecu either..

Cheers,

Michael

[Chris Rogers]

that feeds the tacho. the signal comes originally from the CAS and igniters on teh coils. easier to do it inside.

[Talej]

Did you manage to tap into the existing central locking system? That was the main issue we had and so did the installer, they ended up sticking an extra motor in the drivers door to run it (and tried to tell me there wasn't one in there already).

That is a pretty common thing that needs to be done when installing an alarm in skylines/stageas and various other cars for that matter.

[beastien]

Depends whether you have keyless entry to begin with or not.

If you don't, a motor has to be installed in the drivers door.