Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't know but likely not too good. For a few of reasons, but the 2 main ones are 1) it's too cheap, and i don't mean by a little bit and 2) they don't even have pictures of the actual rb kit, and the kit they have pictured doesn't even have a 38mm wastegate, it has a copy of a 50mm hks gate so straight away you aren't getting that gate.

And the rest, because it's probably worth noting anyway. no specs on the turbo, they claim horsepower ranges from 220rwkw up to 550hp or so, it talks about running it in the stock location which says it's internally gated maybe? I dunno, also 5 bolt flange, again a bit odd, the 38mm gate they are offering is probably an hks copy which sell for around 200 bucks. The genuine article is 700 on it's own. So basically that leaves 500 for a turbo and a manifold, of which neither can be of any high standard when you consider the price of branded equivalents, or even copy equivalents.

Is that enough to convince you it's not worth buying? I haven't even talked about the cost of fitting yet....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182229-product-opinion/#findComment-3308649
Share on other sites

Seen that my self, and it did cross my mind for a split second I must admit. I mean, at that price anyone is tempted.

But you have to look past the price, and see what your paying for, and how much.

For that price, it seriously couldn't be that good, and when it comes down to turbos & ex gates, you really do get what you pay for!

Your probably better off just sticking with the standard manifold, and getting a high flow turbo, or a GARRETT after market, which will also bolt up to standard manifold, and stay low mount.

Heaps of options now days, no need to buy the cheap shit.

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182229-product-opinion/#findComment-3308807
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes, well, mine were 31 years old last year when they finally got done. Started to leak a bit.
    • I've ordered a new fuel pump and plan to do all the fuel tank hoses at the same time. Those are the hoses I would rather not go on the road.
    • As a general rule removing rubber fuel hose is so difficult I would replace it if it hasn't been done in the last 5 years. The risk you damage the liner or one of the inner layers is pretty high if it's not almost brand new. BMW's recommendations around coolant hoses is similar. My R33's fuel hoses at the fuel tank were so perished that they were ready to burst FYI. 
    • Ah yep, will do. Cheers!
    • Yes. It's either "2 wires", or 1 wire, depending on how you look at it. It is the connection that ties the battery -ve to both the chassis and the engine. Every electron that goes in or out of the battery goes through those 2 small spots (on the inner guard and on the engine block). If those are not clean and tight, then shit starts to suffer. Yeah, but measure it again cold in the morning, after it has had hours to rest. You can't usefully test the charge state of a battery immediately after it has been running because the alternator puts a surface charge onto the plates that takes a while to soak in and balance out. It will always read higher, and potentially look properly healthy, when fresh off of charge. But hours later it can look a lot less healthy. It's also worth measuring the battery voltage while cranking, although this can be difficult with a typical DMM because the screem update rate is so slow on most of them. An analogue voltmeter is actually a better tool for that. If the voltage drops too far while cranking, it is a sign of a poor battery. Although I don't think we're necessarily looking for a weak battery here - just wanting to exclude it.
×
×
  • Create New...