Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

FOR SALE: 1988 200ZR Fairlady (Final Edition) - I am very happy to have inspections so call me to arrange on 0411 235 832 if you are interested. I most likely won't be able to answer during work hours so leave me your contact details and a preferred time and I'll get back to you (or just PM me). Car is located near Baulkham Hills in north-west Sydney.

These cars are rare and highly sort after in Japan as a classic sports car and it is nearly impossible to find another one in Australia - especially a manual. Everyone loves to stare at this car and most have no clue what it is.

They are basically the body of the Z31 Californian 300ZX with the engine and driveline of an RB20DET skyline. This almost bullet-proof engine can push out a LOT of power. I recently had it tuned and dyno’d with a proven 191kw AT THE WHEELS.

• Registered until 27th October 2007

• Imported by Edward Lee's Imports and first registered by myself in October 2005

• Engineers certificate and compliance plate

• Used as a weekend car so not many km’s driven since first registered in Oz

• Always used Mobile 1 oil and changed with filter every 6000km

• Always used 98 RON fuel

• I love this car so I never flogged it and always checked/replaced gear oils and other fluids etc regularly

• Targa top great for summer

• Air Con

• Power steering, mirrors and windows

• Central locking, alarm and keyless entry

• Very regretful sale

ENGINE BAY

• RB20DET making 191kw at the wheels (see dyno sheet)

• HKS GT2540 Turbo (genuine)

- Rated to 350 Horsepower

- Can’t buy these new for under $2,300

- Boost set to 14 psi / 1 bar

• Turbosmart Boost Controller

• HKS blow off valve and intake pipe

- Can’t buy these new for under $300

• HKS oil cooler kit and oil filter relocator

- Can’t buy these new for under $540

• Kakimoto Racing full turbo back 3 inch s/s exhaust with 5 inch cannon muffler

- Can’t buy these new for under $1000

• 380cc injectors

- FJ20 injectors

- Rated to 350 Horsepower

• HKS front mount intercooler kit (Z31)

- Can’t buy these new for under $1,300

• Reconditioned Air Flow Meter 3 months ago

- Cost $350

• Re-mapped and tuned ECU and rev limiter removed

• HKS Fuel Cut Defender, tune & dyno at Unique Autosports 3 months ago

- Cost $700

• Pod filter with custom heat shield

• Fully reconditioned Brake Master Cylinder, brake bleed & high spec dot 4 brake fluid 1 month ago

- Cost $400

• Custom stainless steel woven mesh & aluminium aerofoil air damn

- Cost $300

• Bosch Gold Battery

- Cost $120

• Twin thermo fans

• Oil (Mobil 1), oil filter, gear oil, diff oil, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant changed less than 3000km ago

SUSPENSION and HANDLING

• Four new shock absorbers

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $500

• New front tie rods

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $300

• King springs

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $600

• Tanabe strut brace

- Can't buy new for under $200

DRIVE LINE

• Reconditioned R32 gtst gearbox (new bearings and replaced worn sychro’s)

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $900

• Twin Plate Brass Button Clutch with lightened flywheel

- Big $ to buy new

EXTERIOR

• RS Watanabe 17 inch two piece rims

- Highly sought after and can’t buy them for under $900 - second hand!

• Will also include 4 original 16 inch Californian Fairlady Z rims in excellent condition with near new tyres.

INTERIOR

• Veilside sports steering wheel

• Greddy Boost Gauge

- Can't buy new for under $200

• JVC MP3/CD Player

- Cost $250

• IMPUL Racing Pedals

- Can't buy new for under $150

• RHINO alarm and immobiliser, central locking with additional kill switch

- Cost $250

Why am I selling it?

I love this car but I'm trying to save for an overseas trip around the world – and I’m not going to be able to take it with me. I work long hours and I have another car that I drive everyday so I never drove my 200ZR much anyway (would be lucky to do 150km a week).

Known Problem:

The speedo sensor cable needs to be replaced.

- It stopped working a few months ago.

- Can be bought new from Nissan for $119 (imported).

Other than that, the car is in excellent condition – you won’t find another like it (if you can find one at all). It’s a rare, sporty, powerful car - but still easy to find body & mechanical parts for (always either a Skyline or 300ZX part).

These cars can sell for $12000++ (if you can find another one)

Even in Japan they still sell for more than newer Skylines and 300ZX’s.

First to offer me $10000 will get this car, otherwise, nearest offer – Not desperate so will wait for the right buyer.

All enquires welcome

th_scan.jpg

th_DSCF00121.jpg

th_DSCF0098.jpg

th_DSCF00091.jpg

th_DSCF0088.jpg

th_DSCF0085.jpg

th_DSCF0080.jpg

th_DSCF0076.jpg

th_DSCF0071.jpg

th_DSCF0068.jpg

th_DSCF0067.jpg

th_DSCF0060.jpg

th_DSCF0052.jpg

th_DSCF0050.jpg

th_DSCF0048.jpg

th_DSCF0047.jpg

th_DSCF0043.jpg

th_DSCF00031.jpg

th_DSCF0022.jpg

th_DSCF0016.jpg

th_DSCF00011.jpg

th_DSCF0009.jpg

th_2.jpg

FFS.... if i only knew about this last week.... just bought a VY Holden....

NICE CAR AND FREE BUMP!!

p.s. If i happen to come by a spare $10k ill be on your door step!! :) Lovely car mate

I may be interested if another Zed I am thinking about falls through. Did you end up fixing the problems you had with the car earlier this year including the master brake cylinder. I note a quote from your earlier post:

The problem is that it is running very rich.

- It needs to be fixed before it can be driven properly – I've had the crank angle sensor and ignitor professional tested by AFI but these are all working properly. I've also swapped the AFM but this didn't fix the problem.

- This would suit someone who is mechanically/electrically minded or familiar with RB engines etc.

- Problem happened 6 weeks ago out of the blue and I have not driven the car since then.

- The car starts but runs so rich that it is very hard to drive. ALSO if the car is left to run for a while, the spark plugs foul (from too much fuel) and need to be cleaned before it will start again. I've had to do this several times.

- I don't want to spend any more time or money trying to fix it when I was planning on selling it anyway to go travelling

FOR SALE: 1988 200ZR Fairlady (Final Edition) - I am very happy to have inspections so call me to arrange on 0411 235 832 if you are interested. I most likely won't be able to answer during work hours so leave me your contact details and a preferred time and I'll get back to you (or just PM me). Car is located near Baulkham Hills in north-west Sydney.

These cars are rare and highly sort after in Japan as a classic sports car and it is nearly impossible to find another one in Australia - especially a manual. Everyone loves to stare at this car and most have no clue what it is.

They are basically the body of the Z31 Californian 300ZX with the engine and driveline of an RB20DET skyline. This almost bullet-proof engine can push out a LOT of power. I recently had it tuned and dyno’d with a proven 191kw AT THE WHEELS.

• Registered until 27th October 2007

• Imported by Edward Lee's Imports and first registered by myself in October 2005

• Engineers certificate and compliance plate

• Used as a weekend car so not many km’s driven since first registered in Oz

• Always used Mobile 1 oil and changed with filter every 6000km

• Always used 98 RON fuel

• I love this car so I never flogged it and always checked/replaced gear oils and other fluids etc regularly

• Targa top great for summer

• Air Con

• Power steering, mirrors and windows

• Central locking, alarm and keyless entry

• Very regretful sale

ENGINE BAY

• RB20DET making 191kw at the wheels (see dyno sheet)

• HKS GT2540 Turbo (genuine)

- Rated to 350 Horsepower

- Can’t buy these new for under $2,300

- Boost set to 14 psi / 1 bar

• Turbosmart Boost Controller

• HKS blow off valve and intake pipe

- Can’t buy these new for under $300

• HKS oil cooler kit and oil filter relocator

- Can’t buy these new for under $540

• Kakimoto Racing full turbo back 3 inch s/s exhaust with 5 inch cannon muffler

- Can’t buy these new for under $1000

• 380cc injectors

- FJ20 injectors

- Rated to 350 Horsepower

• HKS front mount intercooler kit (Z31)

- Can’t buy these new for under $1,300

• Reconditioned Air Flow Meter 3 months ago

- Cost $350

• Re-mapped and tuned ECU and rev limiter removed

• HKS Fuel Cut Defender, tune & dyno at Unique Autosports 3 months ago

- Cost $700

• Pod filter with custom heat shield

• Fully reconditioned Brake Master Cylinder, brake bleed & high spec dot 4 brake fluid 1 month ago

- Cost $400

• Custom stainless steel woven mesh & aluminium aerofoil air damn

- Cost $300

• Bosch Gold Battery

- Cost $120

• Twin thermo fans

• Oil (Mobil 1), oil filter, gear oil, diff oil, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant changed less than 3000km ago

SUSPENSION and HANDLING

• Four new shock absorbers

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $500

• New front tie rods

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $300

• King springs

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $600

• Tanabe strut brace

- Can't buy new for under $200

DRIVE LINE

• Reconditioned R32 gtst gearbox (new bearings and replaced worn sychro’s)

- Installed less than 10000km ago

- Cost $900

• Twin Plate Brass Button Clutch with lightened flywheel

- Big $ to buy new

EXTERIOR

• RS Watanabe 17 inch two piece rims

- Highly sought after and can’t buy them for under $900 - second hand!

• Will also include 4 original 16 inch Californian Fairlady Z rims in excellent condition with near new tyres.

INTERIOR

• Veilside sports steering wheel

• Greddy Boost Gauge

- Can't buy new for under $200

• JVC MP3/CD Player

- Cost $250

• IMPUL Racing Pedals

- Can't buy new for under $150

• RHINO alarm and immobiliser, central locking with additional kill switch

- Cost $250

Why am I selling it?

I love this car but I'm trying to save for an overseas trip around the world – and I’m not going to be able to take it with me. I work long hours and I have another car that I drive everyday so I never drove my 200ZR much anyway (would be lucky to do 150km a week).

Known Problem:

The speedo sensor cable needs to be replaced.

- It stopped working a few months ago.

- Can be bought new from Nissan for $119 (imported).

Other than that, the car is in excellent condition – you won’t find another like it (if you can find one at all). It’s a rare, sporty, powerful car - but still easy to find body & mechanical parts for (always either a Skyline or 300ZX part).

These cars can sell for $12000++ (if you can find another one)

Even in Japan they still sell for more than newer Skylines and 300ZX’s.

First to offer me $10000 will get this car, otherwise, nearest offer – Not desperate so will wait for the right buyer.

All enquires welcome

th_scan.jpg

th_DSCF00121.jpg

th_DSCF0098.jpg

th_DSCF00091.jpg

th_DSCF0088.jpg

th_DSCF0085.jpg

th_DSCF0080.jpg

th_DSCF0076.jpg

th_DSCF0071.jpg

th_DSCF0068.jpg

th_DSCF0067.jpg

th_DSCF0060.jpg

th_DSCF0052.jpg

th_DSCF0050.jpg

th_DSCF0048.jpg

th_DSCF0047.jpg

th_DSCF0043.jpg

th_DSCF00031.jpg

th_DSCF0022.jpg

th_DSCF0016.jpg

th_DSCF00011.jpg

th_DSCF0009.jpg

th_2.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...