Jump to content
SAU Community

Moving Unregistered Import From Qld To Nsw


Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a import from QLD, the vehicle is still unregistered, but has been complianced with paperwork ready. The problem is I live in NSW, need to drive the car back to Sydney and get it registered. Just want to know my best option:

1. Register the car in QLD on a 6mths rego, drive it back to NSW and transfer registration to NSW again. Problem is I have to pay stamp duty twice: once in QLD, and Once in NSW, plus i know that i'll be lucky to get half of my rego from QLD back even if i only used it for few days, so i'll be losing out about 500-700bux.

2. get an unregistered rego permitt (can u use this to drive the car back to NSW?), drive the car back to NSW, and register from new in NSW. I have never registered an import be4, dunno how difficult is it to register it. Everything is stock on the car, and the car is MY03.

Just wondering what's my best option?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

I've recently purchased a import from QLD, the vehicle is still unregistered, but has been complianced with paperwork ready. The problem is I live in NSW, need to drive the car back to Sydney and get it registered. Just want to know my best option:

1. Register the car in QLD on a 6mths rego, drive it back to NSW and transfer registration to NSW again. Problem is I have to pay stamp duty twice: once in QLD, and Once in NSW, plus i know that i'll be lucky to get half of my rego from QLD back even if i only used it for few days, so i'll be losing out about 500-700bux.

2. get an unregistered rego permitt (can u use this to drive the car back to NSW?), drive the car back to NSW, and register from new in NSW. I have never registered an import be4, dunno how difficult is it to register it. Everything is stock on the car, and the car is MY03.

Just wondering what's my best option?

Thanks in advance.

To register it in QLD you would need to prove that you live there so that could be hard - if you were able to register it in your name in QLD then you would NOT have to pay stamp duty again to transfer the rego to NSW and you should get back all unused rego, so if you pay $600 for rego and use only one month then you should get back around $550 ... in any case I think it's lot easier to just get a temp rego from either state and drive the car home as it only costs $40 or $50 and saves a huge amount of stuffing around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the quick reply J-Spec. just wondering if i need a Engineers Certificate for rego? the car isnt modified, except an aftermarket exhaust i think.

I assume being a 2003 model that it's a Skyline V35 or late model Stagea in which case it would have been complied under the SEVS scheme - these compliance laws are an Australia wide standard so the paperwork given to you by the compliance workshop will allow registration in any state without any trouble, although you will still need your various coloured slips in NSW as with registering any car or transferring rego from another state so there is no advantage in getting QLD rego at all.

If the car wasn't imported under the SEVS compliance laws then the case may be different, in which case you should let you know the details and I will give specific advise then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume being a 2003 model that it's a Skyline V35 or late model Stagea in which case it would have been complied under the SEVS scheme - these compliance laws are an Australia wide standard so the paperwork given to you by the compliance workshop will allow registration in any state without any trouble, although you will still need your various coloured slips in NSW as with registering any car or transferring rego from another state so there is no advantage in getting QLD rego at all.

If the car wasn't imported under the SEVS compliance laws then the case may be different, in which case you should let you know the details and I will give specific advise then.

its a v35, so i assume it under the SEVS scheme. I read that you need a engineers certificate on the RTA's website, or doesnt it apply to me?

All i have atm is a Vehicle Import Approval letter from the Dept of Transport and Regional Services, and a Consumer Information Notice from RAWS Workshop. So all i need is a blueslip from a mechanic and head down to the RTA?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently drove a deregistered vehicle from Melbourne to Adelaide on a permit. It was cheap and easy, all i needed was the vehicle's vin and engine number to get the permit. As your car has been complied and has an Australian compliance plate you now have you 17 digit Australian vin so it should be pretty straight forward.

Get onto the Queensland Transport website, permit info should be on there. Alternatively put it on a truck, it is much less of a risk as you dont have to worry about making the journey without insurance. The cost of a flight, fuel and a permit would see majority of the truck transport payed for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recently drove a deregistered vehicle from Melbourne to Adelaide on a permit. It was cheap and easy, all i needed was the vehicle's vin and engine number to get the permit. As your car has been complied and has an Australian compliance plate you now have you 17 digit Australian vin so it should be pretty straight forward.

Get onto the Queensland Transport website, permit info should be on there. Alternatively put it on a truck, it is much less of a risk as you dont have to worry about making the journey without insurance. The cost of a flight, fuel and a permit would see majority of the truck transport payed for.

I'm going up with a mate, so wouldnt mind a road trip driving back. So no insurer will give me a cover note on the unregistered car? I thought as long as u have a VIN and engine number, they'll insure you. But i'll ring up n check...

UPDATE: ok I rang Just Car, they'll give me a cover note for the trip.

Edited by GEXer
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on.
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...