Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I dont think a R33 snorkel will well as thats more for sucking air from the outside in, as opposed to ramming air from the outside in, hence you'd need to build some sort of sealed box around your pods and then have the snorkel running to the front just under the bonnet.

Could try a funnel and pipe from the front bar, through the left hand guard and to the pods. (i have something for sale in my signature, sorry shameful plug here hahaha)

Alternatively, have a vent in your bonnet installed above the filters? looks kinda crapping though.

Or have a vent on the bonnet closer to the back of the engine bay on the passenger side, R34 GTR VSpec style to draw away hot air?

I hate it when people you know from work find you on internet forums that you shouldn't be using... at work.

;)

Gotta go to Kemerton for a dull meeting. Will try & catch up later.

All for good OH&S practices.

Call it a de-stress.

You know you do your stretching and eye exercises and surfing .....

lol

well we have standard on the race car and will go headlight intake on the track car once we get to that.

Its a lot of work, but what about relocating the oil cooler? Can it fit on the other side? Ours live where the air con used to sit leaving plenty of space for intake

I dont think a R33 snorkel will well as thats more for sucking air from the outside in, as opposed to ramming air from the outside in, hence you'd need to build some sort of sealed box around your pods and then have the snorkel running to the front just under the bonnet.

Could try a funnel and pipe from the front bar, through the left hand guard and to the pods. (i have something for sale in my signature, sorry shameful plug here hahaha)

Alternatively, have a vent in your bonnet installed above the filters? looks kinda crapping though.

Or have a vent on the bonnet closer to the back of the engine bay on the passenger side, R34 GTR VSpec style to draw away hot air?

For me it is more important that the air be cold than I get every last bit of pressure gain from infront of the car.

A pod box (not really, but a plate between them & the remainder of the engine bay) is on the agenda, but it is difficult to fabricate because of the 2 afms, power steer reservoir & all the other crap Nissan saw fit to jam in there. You can't find room for a 100mm duct (the requisite size) if it is round - hence the over the radiator preference.

And, no I am not going to hack holes in the bonnet.

Actually, as to your last point there is a high pressure area at the base of the windscreen. It is common for cars (Mostly track cars) to take their air from exactly this position. Check the old Brock VL Commodores for but one example.

This is what i came up with having some left over flexible ducting, and having my oil cooler towards the centre right side of the car. Ran the ducting from the right lower side up to and behind the left head light, held on with cable ties.

Have also seen ones like the tomei ones that feed direct air to the pods but also having a headlight positioned in the same spot N1 headlights.

edit found that headlight intake bit...its from nengun, prob only for race use???? http://www.nengun.com/silk-road/section-headlight-intake

post-24749-1188284190_thumb.jpg

no room at all to run anything from the n1 vent unless you cut a hole through the intercooler core as the back of it just about touches the intercooler.

Yeah I was hoping that there would be enough room to mount a smaller version (It is possible I have fewer hp than the Saurus Gt-R) above the radiator support crossmenber thingo. The bling cooling panel should stuff enough air into the general area, just a case of getting enough cross section for the duct immediately above the radiator.

Maybe if I just unbolted the one from my Falcon & used that as a start point.....

post-5134-1188361113_thumb.jpg

Edited by djr81

lol, I know, I've spent a fair bit of time crawling all over that car!

next time I see hayahi-san I should ask him to make us up one for GTRs that want to keep front mounted rad, and air con. :D

i guess with a custom rad from PWR or the like, and then find an air con core from another model that is shorter it could be done. :(

Well some bloke called Fred (apparently not on these forums) did it this way. Maybe that is the proper or even only solution. Would mean extensive hacking of the radiator, but looks doable.

I have seen pics where "fred" lowered the radiator about the same amount to fit his CAI

djr81

After looking at my car (and now thinking out loud) it may be possible to link up the air deflector/guide with the std snorkel. If you made a new snorkel to take in the std position and bring it forward of the radiator cap/raised section of the radiator there looks like there may be enough room to get a full grill width intake slot using the air guide as the base. A bit like the Saurus one but further forward.

I'll see if I can mock something up over the weekend or give me a yell and go over it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...