Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just about passed with a FULL 3.5inch exhaust today (95db)

Minor alteration in a couple places and i'll get under the limit no problem in the world, know exactly what i need to do, and be legal doing it.

Goes to show, a properly engineered exhaust can still flow for 400rwkw, and pass noise testing without even having to worry ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318745
Share on other sites

I just about passed with a FULL 3.5inch exhaust today (95db)

Minor alteration in a couple places and i'll get under the limit no problem in the world, know exactly what i need to do, and be legal doing it.

Goes to show, a properly engineered exhaust can still flow for 400rwkw, and pass noise testing without even having to worry ;)

what exhaust do you have? what do you plan doing to modify for epa test?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318816
Share on other sites

I had a 100% custom made one ;)

Put it this way, an exhaust made to PASS EPA isnt cheap, and im not talking $1500 here either.

I've paid some damn good money to have it made, and the results speak for themselves. Even the EPA guy doing the test was highly surprised at how close it was to legal for such a free flowing system (will flow 400rwkw no worries if it needed to do so).

Considering all the crappy Jap systems that he would see on a daily basis, my car was a very very big surprise with results it returned.

Some people have said that cost was too much, but IMO it far outweighs the costs of constant defects and EPA's... which over the years have cost me a fortune alone.

Minor alteration to mufflers and it will be fine, will pass without even thinking about it.

That was running a CAT and all the other bizzo aswell.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318863
Share on other sites

Considering all the crappy Jap systems that he would see on a daily basis, my car was a very very big surprise with results it returned.

Crappy Jap systems? Settle down...i'm sure yours is very nice but calling the jap systems rubbish because they don't pass an AUSTRALIAN noise limit is a bit much....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318949
Share on other sites

Well them not passing isnt my problem is it? ;)

The laws are here, you comply the car to AUS Import Regulations and other AUS laws. So why not the noise laws too?

Its not really a 'bit much', there is a fair bit of crap on the market.

Why pay $$$ for a Jap exhaust if it doesnt even come close to passing? I dont really see the point, and hence ive always had locally produced exhausts :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318968
Share on other sites

....

how can you call a japanese exhaust system crap because it doesnt pass an australian noise limit...thats 1 of the stupidest things ive ever heard.

not to mention the fact that plenty of jap systems can pass the australian noise limit if thats what you want, without being modified and costing less than $1500.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3318982
Share on other sites

....

how can you call a japanese exhaust system crap because it doesnt pass an australian noise limit...thats 1 of the stupidest things ive ever heard.

not to mention the fact that plenty of jap systems can pass the australian noise limit if thats what you want, without being modified and costing less than $1500.

They might pass, but will they flow for the power is the question :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3319298
Share on other sites

Mate you could always just make up a small plate with about an inch opening or so depending on what you need, and just bolt that up between where the cat and catback bolt up, easy to take off after just make sure its not too obvious as in nsw they lift the car up and do a thorough check with pics, best way to hide these things is get some exhaust sealer from supercheap and cover the joints up...

that or invest in an Apexi EVC like i have, saves ALOT of hassles!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3319532
Share on other sites

I just about passed with a FULL 3.5inch exhaust today (95db)

Minor alteration in a couple places and i'll get under the limit no problem in the world, know exactly what i need to do, and be legal doing it.

Goes to show, a properly engineered exhaust can still flow for 400rwkw, and pass noise testing without even having to worry :bunny:

yeah, what needs doing? will it still be full 3.5in?

mine is quiet but still a little loud (it's probably more or less exactly like yours, except for differences in the under body shape :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182460-epa-fun/page/2/#findComment-3320170
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My understanding is that UV tends to accelerate the aging process. If the car has been garaged, then you could probably get away with extending beyond 10 years. FWIW, in 2015, I had tyres on my 180B SSS that had a 3-digit code (2 for week, 1 for decade), ending in 0, so could have been more than 30 years old, but still worked fine. I did replaced them very quickly, though, once I discovered what the code meant!
    • But we haven't even gotten to the point of talking about stateless controllers or any of the good stuff yet!
    • You guys need to take this discussion to another thread if you want to continue it, most of the last 2 pages has nothing to do with OP's questions and situation
    • And this, is just ONE major issue for closed loop control, particularly using PID. One such issue that is created right here, is integrator wind up. But you know GTSBoy, "it's just a simple PID controller"...  
    • Nah. For something like boost control I wouldn't start my design with PID. I'd go with something that originates in the fuzzy logic world and use an emergency function or similar concept. PID can and does work, but at its fundamental level it is not suited to quick action. I'd be reasonably sure that the Profecs et al all transitioned to a fuzzy algorithm back in the 90s. Keep in mind also that where and when I have previously talked about using a Profec, I'm usually talking about only doing an open loop system anyway. All this talk of PID and other algorithms only comes into play when you're talking closed loop boost control, and in the context of what the OP needs and wants, we're probably actually in the realm of open loop anyway. Closed loop boost control has always bothered me, because if you sense the process value (ie the boost measurement that you want to control) in the plenum (after the throttle), then boost control to achieve a target is only desirable at WOT. When you are not WOT, you do not want the the boost to be as high as it can be (ie 100% of target). That's why you do not have the throttle at WO. You're attempting to not go as fast as you can. If the process variable is measured upstream of the throttle (ie in an RB26 plenum, or the cold side pipework in others) then yeah, sure, run the boost controller closed loop to hit a target boost there, and then the throttle does what it is supposed to do. Just for utter clarity.... an old Profec B Spec II (or whatever it is called, and I've got one, and I never look at it, so I can't remember!) and similar might have a MAP sensor, and it might show you the actual boost in the plenum (when the MAP sensor is connected to the plenum) but it does not use that value to decide what it is doing to control the boost, except to control the gating effect (where it stops holding the gate closed on the boost ramp). It's not closed loop at all. Once the gate is released, it's just the solenoid flailing away at whatever duty cycle was configured when it was set up. I'm sure that there are many people who do not understand the above points and wonder wtf is going on.  
×
×
  • Create New...